Try Sunset Group in Sarasota Florida... that Porsche dealership has beat all other dealerships in pricing for the last 10 items i've bought...

 

Suncoast Porsche (www.SuncoastParts.com) is in Sarasota

We are a part of a chain of local dealerships known as the Sunset Auto Group, but we are not affiliated with Sunset Porsche.

 

UPDATE:
--------

Had it in to the shop first thing this AM.

As we suspected, misfire code... but that's the least of the problems.

Turns out my sport headers on both sides were cracked at the weld joint. Having them repaired at a machine shop for now. The loss in boost may have caused a difference in pressure between the cylinders, which could account for a blown coil/plug.

My mechanic thinks the issue is from a possible bottom-out on the rear end, since he discovered the rear exhaust pipe (tip, right side) was about 1/2" higher than the left one.

I'm always very careful to baby the car when entering/leaving ramps and so on, but perhaps I may have even slightly nicked it recently...

Regardless, looks like this one's gonna run up the money tree.

Might as well have had the turbos implode.

I'll let you know what the actual damage is once this is all sorted out.

Thanks for all the help... this forum is awesome.

Cheers,

-Chris

 

Oops! Sunset Porsche is in Oregon! I've ordered from both!

 

Chris

How big were the cracks?
Unless cracks are very large, I doubt they are source of your problem. I had a cracked header for a long time and never caused a problem. This header had two <1mm cracks. Also unless header is dented on the bottom, I doubt that hitting the ground caused the crack. They frequently crack from just the tremendous heat cycling they must endure day after day. If coils have never been changed I would at least take the ones off the offending cylinders and examine for cracks. If you find any I would replace them all and likely do plugs at same time too (save labor cost since plugs are relatively cheap to buy as a part).
Hope you get her sorted quickly!

 

Hi M, the cracks were actually pretty big... it seemed a bit too much to have come loose from pressure. Both the mufflers had been scraped and slightly dented on the bottom.

We're replacing all coils & plugs as well (the plugs were definitely ready to be replaced).

My guess is that what started out as a small crack or even a "stretch mark" weak spot in the headers from the bump became a larger crack under turbo heat/pressure.

I think the cylinder misfire (cyl #2) was likely just a coincedence, not necessarily related.

Damn...

Well, at least the misfire wasn't a variocam issue. That would basically be an engine rebuild.

Cheers

-Chris

 

Make sure you cut that gap down on the plugs.

 

Don't forget about the tappet solenoid (ts) and or the ts bracket.

Ran a test with a durametric diagnostic reader on one of the cars I was looking at before buying the one I did and it had a flashing CEL right around the 3000 RPM mark... dreaded ts bracket.

Codes were:

P1371
Porsche fault code 637 - Valve lift control checksum
error
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P1359
Porsche fault code 627 - Valve lift control cylinder 1
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P1361
Porsche fault code 629 - Valve lift control cylinder 2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P1363
Porsche fault code 631 - Valve lift control cylinder 3
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0300
Porsche fault code 507 - Misfire detection
(total)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0306
Porsche fault code 509 - Misfire cylinder 6
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0304
Porsche fault code 511 - Misfire cylinder 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

P0305
Porsche fault code 513 - Misfire cylinder 5

 

Any recommendations for tuned engines, or will the stock gapping distance do just as well?

Thanks

-Chris

 

Gap at .025

 

there are a few recommendations but thats within the range of the ones for modified cars that TTboost posted.

 

UPDATE:
--------

(First of all, I would like to express my thanks to all who've contributed and helped. I'll be sure to pitch in and help where I can in the future as I gain ownership experience over the years).

Okay, so here's the deal...

I am hoping that this is something like Almo's diagnosis (thanks btw, we are looking into the TS and bracket), but after changing all coils + plugs and tig welding the cracks in the exhaust system...

Still getting misfire code on Cyl 2.

I am really hoping it is a solenoid issue, but I fear it's more than that, for a few reasons:

1) The cat on the left side of the car (the one that's connected to cyl2) gets WAY hotter than the other one, which suggests a sticky valve.

2) Flames literally shoot out the left exhaust pipe when revved

3) Only acts up when the engine passes 3K RPM or so.

All of this points to VarioCam, or something valve related (hydraulic lifter, etc.)

Looks like this one will be expensive folks.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again,

-Chris

 

good luck. I agree with you that it sounds like
money, and it wasn't cheap so far either I bet...

 

Isn't there a way to check or "reset" the variocam? Do they sometimes go out of "synch" and have to be reset, especially with modified cars?

 

Perhaps... it may be a timing issue but it's strange that one cylinder is isolated.

This seems more like a problem with the valve or lifter itself.

I was also really hoping this would be more along the lines of an electrical or sensor issue... but I don't think I'm in luck this time.

Makes me wonder if I should look at extended warranty options. Not entirely sure how that works for a California car with 58,000 Km's that's been imported to Canada.

-Chris