Aggressive wheel fitment specs for 997TT
#1
Aggressive wheel fitment specs for 997TT
I was wondering what sizing and offsets would grant me a semi-aggressive/flush (but not hella flush lol) setup? I will be lowering the car but not slamming it and I will be willing to roll and pull fenders to avoid rubbing
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
#7
mid 40s for the front and high 30s for he rear will look pretty good without rubbing.
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997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
#TeamAIM
997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
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#9
Dont even bother with the "so called" flush crap from Champion and the like. I ran an ultra flush 20" ADV1 set up consisting of 235's front on a 9.5" rim and a completely over the top (but perfect) 345 on a 13" wide rear rim. The set up fits amazingly perfect with zero rubbing. Go big or go home when it comes to rims....
#10
I was wondering what sizing and offsets would grant me a semi-aggressive/flush (but not hella flush lol) setup? I will be lowering the car but not slamming it and I will be willing to roll and pull fenders to avoid rubbing
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
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786 249 0127 (ext.2109)
Web: www.wheelsboutique.com
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- David Nussbaum -
786 249 0127 (ext.2109)
Web: www.wheelsboutique.com
Email: David@wheelsboutique.com
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/WheelsBoutique
Largest HRE Dealer In The World / Largest ANRKY Dealer / BBS Premium Dealer / TechArt Premium Dealer / Vorsteiner / Rotiform / Akrapovic / iPE / Novitec / Brabus / AC Schnitzer / Mansory / Brembo / RENNTech / Weistec / Tubi / Hamman / KW / H&R and tons more.
#11
Dont even bother with the "so called" flush crap from Champion and the like. I ran an ultra flush 20" ADV1 set up consisting of 235's front on a 9.5" rim and a completely over the top (but perfect) 345 on a 13" wide rear rim. The set up fits amazingly perfect with zero rubbing. Go big or go home when it comes to rims....
What are the offsets for something like this?
#12
Just a word or two for pause here. If the car is going to be used for street, with occasional spirited driving...then 20 inch rims will work. But if the driving is going to include spirited cornering, stay with the 19 inch rims, and if tracking, consider a dedicated set of 18 inch rims. The width of the stance is nice to look aggressive and fill the wheel wells, but the sidewall size is a really overlooked issue in terms of the traction patch....which is the surface area your tires make contact with the road. Ever notice why F1 car tires have longer sidewalls and are not running 20s? It is because under the Gforce of turning, if the sidewall can flex a bit, it gives the driver more subtle input leading up to the correct % of slip angle, before the tire breaks loose. A 20 inch rim, has such a small sidewall, it it nearly impossible to "feel" this, before it breaks traction. It goes from grip, to slip, in an instant. Also, the size of the contact patch of a 20 is smaller than a 19, which is smaller than an 18, etc...it sits differently on the road, even with the same air pressure in the tire. So, when thinking about making a tire change, look at it in terms of how you want to drive the car and then consider the part that touches the road. Lastly, be sure to research the performance differences of cast wheels, flow form wheels, and forged wheels. There is new tech in the flow formed category that delivers wheels lighter and stronger than cast and way less expensive than forged. Pic of my car with 19 inch Stance custom offset 46 flow formed wheels with Michelin PS04 tires. The wheels are nearly 5 lbs lighter than the OE cast wheels, which reduces unsprung weight.
#14
I was wondering what sizing and offsets would grant me a semi-aggressive/flush (but not hella flush lol) setup? I will be lowering the car but not slamming it and I will be willing to roll and pull fenders to avoid rubbing
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
stock wheels:
F 8.5 x 19 et 56mm
R 11.0 x 19 et 51mm
IF you are lowering the car the resultant ride height and gap change's depending on which springs are selected. Lowering a car reduces "gap" requiring less extreme width/offset to get a "tight" flush look. Width for the sake of width for looks can also be accomplished with modest spacers or different offsets. A wider tire tends to have more sidewall than a smaller of the same dia....and 20"vs 19" results in narrow sidewall and as mentioned worsened ride and max grip. The tire sidewall shape also affects the look and which rims to use. Michelin P4s has a much more square shape vs a Continental Extreme which is rounded and tucks in at the tread vs max width point.
Strongly suggest defining the springs you want then research/look at pics of cars with same setup but different tires/wheels/offsets/diameters.
On stock rims a set of 7-10mm front spacers, 15-17mm rear spacers with Michelin P4S will give you a flush look on stock tire sizes, springs.
Last edited by lflouie; 12-08-2019 at 08:09 AM.
#15
Very timely postings to this thread. I bent a rim (20") beyond repair recently and the replacement barrel and lip (the center was OK) won't be here until January, so I sourced a set of 19's on a little undersized rear tire from what I would have run on the 19's. Since putting them on, I had been thinking that the car rode better on the 19's and wanted to post a question to see if anyone else felt the same.
The 20"s (which were on the car when I acquired it) look really good, but they are pretty harsh. The 20" sidewalls are shorter (30's in the front and 25's in the rear) and just that small difference translates into a much difference feel.
I have no plans for any track time (I would like to do a DE event sometime) and even if I did it would be pretty limited, but my feeling is that the 19's would do better on the track.
So looks are one thing, ride is another.
Ed
The 20"s (which were on the car when I acquired it) look really good, but they are pretty harsh. The 20" sidewalls are shorter (30's in the front and 25's in the rear) and just that small difference translates into a much difference feel.
I have no plans for any track time (I would like to do a DE event sometime) and even if I did it would be pretty limited, but my feeling is that the 19's would do better on the track.
So looks are one thing, ride is another.
Ed