Is a clear bra a must?
#16
I skipped the M3 film once and got a sh!# load of paint chips... needless to say I've got one now on all the toys!
I've got a full bumper, half fenders and hood, rocker panels as well as in front and behind the wheel wells (over kill? even with those lines, got to have it.
I've got a full bumper, half fenders and hood, rocker panels as well as in front and behind the wheel wells (over kill? even with those lines, got to have it.
#17
No debate that the bras do a great job minimizing stone chips; one of the trade offs is that even the expensive 'polishes' are really just "cleaners" that at best might leave a shiny 1 micron coating. Also remember that the films are less abrasion and scratch resistant than the harder factory paint.
#18
I don't think the Plexus has any type of UV protecting, but just a cleaner that leaves a smooth barrier finish.
To-be-honest-with-ya.........Plexus smells like furniture polish. I always wondered if someone just slapped a Plexus label on some Pledge!
#19
+1 for film, especially if you are considering doing track days.
I have had it on a silver car, it is barely visible and there are no signs of yellowing after 3 years. On my white car it is more visible and after a year there is some yellowing visible. The white car is tracked a lot (plus street use) and has several puntures through the film, two of which also chipped the paint. All of the punctures are either on front bumper or the fender flares in front of the rear wheels. After track days most of the tire and track dirt that needs to be cleaned off is in these areas plus lower portion of the hood and the rockers under the doors. The silver car is street only and after 3 years has 2 punctures through the film neither of which caused noticeable paint damage - both on front bumper. On both cars the film tears are a bit unsightly and at some point I will need to replace those areas of the film. I am sure the cars would have significant paint damage if not for the film.
I mention this detail because:
1) it shows most critical areas to protect
2) it shows the film is very good, but not impervious. If you keep your car for more the a couple years, or get unlucky, you may find you need to redo some areas of the film - something I didn't think about originally. Obviously it is not a big deal to redo the front bumper after 2 or 3 years, but if you get unlucky and get the film ripped up a few days after installation... Just have to remember it is cheaper than having the paint redone.
I would definitely film areas of the car. Priority order based on street and track experience is:
1) front bumper and full rear fender flares (I had factory patches removed and filmed from back of doors into wheel well, from rocker panel up to just above top of wheel well)
2) leading edges of hood and front fenders
3) rocker panels under doors
Based on my experience, the decision to do full hood and front fenders is more to eliminate lines from film edges than necessary for protection. The white car, that is used street and track has just the "half" hood and fender treatment, has no paint damage above the partial film after 33 track days and 35k street miles. Full film looks best, but is more expensive upfront and again if you need/want to replace it because of punctures "down the road".
I have had it on a silver car, it is barely visible and there are no signs of yellowing after 3 years. On my white car it is more visible and after a year there is some yellowing visible. The white car is tracked a lot (plus street use) and has several puntures through the film, two of which also chipped the paint. All of the punctures are either on front bumper or the fender flares in front of the rear wheels. After track days most of the tire and track dirt that needs to be cleaned off is in these areas plus lower portion of the hood and the rockers under the doors. The silver car is street only and after 3 years has 2 punctures through the film neither of which caused noticeable paint damage - both on front bumper. On both cars the film tears are a bit unsightly and at some point I will need to replace those areas of the film. I am sure the cars would have significant paint damage if not for the film.
I mention this detail because:
1) it shows most critical areas to protect
2) it shows the film is very good, but not impervious. If you keep your car for more the a couple years, or get unlucky, you may find you need to redo some areas of the film - something I didn't think about originally. Obviously it is not a big deal to redo the front bumper after 2 or 3 years, but if you get unlucky and get the film ripped up a few days after installation... Just have to remember it is cheaper than having the paint redone.
I would definitely film areas of the car. Priority order based on street and track experience is:
1) front bumper and full rear fender flares (I had factory patches removed and filmed from back of doors into wheel well, from rocker panel up to just above top of wheel well)
2) leading edges of hood and front fenders
3) rocker panels under doors
Based on my experience, the decision to do full hood and front fenders is more to eliminate lines from film edges than necessary for protection. The white car, that is used street and track has just the "half" hood and fender treatment, has no paint damage above the partial film after 33 track days and 35k street miles. Full film looks best, but is more expensive upfront and again if you need/want to replace it because of punctures "down the road".
#20
It is a must as 997 paint is very gentle. CLear bra is invisible and it will preserve your car perfectly. Get it done.
#21
Also.. any recommendations on the kind to get. These guys are local: http://www.autosupershield.com/ and seem pretty reputable. They want $370 for the clear one-piece film and another $100 to install.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
The installation of the bumper kit is much more difficult and I doubt you will get this done for $100.
I have on my car the clear bra on hood, fender, mirrors, front bumper, headlights and on the rear bumper in the area behind the wheels. Although she is black (basalt) it is barely visible in my opinion.
The next areas I will install the clear bra are the tank flap, outer door handles and a section on the painted back of the passenger seat. My son likes to push his shoes against the front seat.
#23
I have a white 997S as well, and had been using a white SpeedLingerie bra for some time, until I fitted the GT3 bumper and it no longer fit (thus it's for sale). I'd also like to know what is best for a white car (less yellowing).
FWIW, I also agree that this is a 'must' add for the car. I've had the Ford done (in addition to a SpeedLingerie bra) covering a lot of the car, and wish I had done so for the Porsche. I bought it used, it already had a few marks and didn't do so. What a mistake. I don't think it is just for the track. Anytime you are running at highway speeds, there is lots of stuff (stones and other ick) flying. Much more damaging than bugs.
I ought to touch it up and have clear applied even now. This car's a keeper.
FWIW, I also agree that this is a 'must' add for the car. I've had the Ford done (in addition to a SpeedLingerie bra) covering a lot of the car, and wish I had done so for the Porsche. I bought it used, it already had a few marks and didn't do so. What a mistake. I don't think it is just for the track. Anytime you are running at highway speeds, there is lots of stuff (stones and other ick) flying. Much more damaging than bugs.
I ought to touch it up and have clear applied even now. This car's a keeper.
#24
[QUOTE=yrralis1;2752891 I have not clear bra'd my cars . If i tracked them I would . If i drive daily on the highway .. I would. ... On a white car it can yellow.[/QUOTE]
You do not drive your car on the highway yrralis1 !!! As far as my opinion on clearbra-ing: If U drive on highways, race tracks and in areas of the country that use loose gravel for traction in winter time (like my place) after a snowfall (who knows what can happen to Miami after what Florida experienced this winter), plan to kep the car for a few years and care about your cars appearance ..there is no room for debate. Clear bra is a must. 3M and ventureshield are the best and ventureshield does offer lifetime warranty against yellowing of film and in fact they did pay for one of our members reinstall after a few years as his film yellowed. I am sure they have an even better product now which is perhaps more immune to yellowing. I have heard that 3M's film is slightly thicker and that could translate into better protection for the paint although I am not sure if this is true. I have ventureshield on my car and many like ventureshield over 3M.
On a side note, I am getting my car after a full body clearbra this weekend. Did the full wrap more for protection against vandalism as a colleague of mine had his Porsche keyed all around last year when he parked his car going in for an emergency in the hospital. I do get called quite often in the middle of the night for medical emergencies and the car can sit in the parking lot for a couple of hours. I know dirtbags can find other ways to orchestrate damage to a car but my hope is that they overestimate their damage done to the paint with the keying not noticing the fact that it is clear bra'd and leave the rest of the car.
You do not drive your car on the highway yrralis1 !!! As far as my opinion on clearbra-ing: If U drive on highways, race tracks and in areas of the country that use loose gravel for traction in winter time (like my place) after a snowfall (who knows what can happen to Miami after what Florida experienced this winter), plan to kep the car for a few years and care about your cars appearance ..there is no room for debate. Clear bra is a must. 3M and ventureshield are the best and ventureshield does offer lifetime warranty against yellowing of film and in fact they did pay for one of our members reinstall after a few years as his film yellowed. I am sure they have an even better product now which is perhaps more immune to yellowing. I have heard that 3M's film is slightly thicker and that could translate into better protection for the paint although I am not sure if this is true. I have ventureshield on my car and many like ventureshield over 3M.
On a side note, I am getting my car after a full body clearbra this weekend. Did the full wrap more for protection against vandalism as a colleague of mine had his Porsche keyed all around last year when he parked his car going in for an emergency in the hospital. I do get called quite often in the middle of the night for medical emergencies and the car can sit in the parking lot for a couple of hours. I know dirtbags can find other ways to orchestrate damage to a car but my hope is that they overestimate their damage done to the paint with the keying not noticing the fact that it is clear bra'd and leave the rest of the car.
#25
Subjective debate...if I were to drive mine daily, I would probably fully wrap the front metal panels (hood and front quarter panels), and skip the bumper. By "fully wrap", I mean wrapping the entire panel around the corners and edges.
I would just plan on respraying the front bumper when the chips get bad.
I would just plan on respraying the front bumper when the chips get bad.
#26
Yep, Full hood and full fenders and you cant see it.. I will NEVER EVER own a high end car or car i care about without the clear bra.. Especially a porsche which is a magnet for chips with the low sloped hood.. A customer of mine literally drive from the dealership to my shop in his 997.2 GT3 and got a nice chip right on the hood 1st drive.. On a black car it looks like SNOW on the hood after a several months if highway driven..
I just noticed your in South FL.. The place you linked i have never heard of but before you decide where to take it find some customer cars to look at it.. Not the cars they own that they spent 5 extra hours on but what a customer job that is 470.00 looks like.. Thats very cheap IMO.. PM me if you need further advice.. I have a guy who does all the high end cars for a dealer who does my cars..
I just noticed your in South FL.. The place you linked i have never heard of but before you decide where to take it find some customer cars to look at it.. Not the cars they own that they spent 5 extra hours on but what a customer job that is 470.00 looks like.. Thats very cheap IMO.. PM me if you need further advice.. I have a guy who does all the high end cars for a dealer who does my cars..
#29
You do not drive your car on the highway yrralis1 !!! As far as my opinion on clearbra-ing: If U drive on highways, race tracks and in areas of the country that use loose gravel for traction in winter time (like my place) after a snowfall (who knows what can happen to Miami after what Florida experienced this winter), plan to kep the car for a few years and care about your cars appearance ..there is no room for debate. Clear bra is a must. 3M and ventureshield are the best and ventureshield does offer lifetime warranty against yellowing of film and in fact they did pay for one of our members reinstall after a few years as his film yellowed. I am sure they have an even better product now which is perhaps more immune to yellowing. I have heard that 3M's film is slightly thicker and that could translate into better protection for the paint although I am not sure if this is true. I have ventureshield on my car and many like ventureshield over 3M.
On a side note, I am getting my car after a full body clearbra this weekend. Did the full wrap more for protection against vandalism as a colleague of mine had his Porsche keyed all around last year when he parked his car going in for an emergency in the hospital. I do get called quite often in the middle of the night for medical emergencies and the car can sit in the parking lot for a couple of hours. I know dirtbags can find other ways to orchestrate damage to a car but my hope is that they overestimate their damage done to the paint with the keying not noticing the fact that it is clear bra'd and leave the rest of the car.
On a side note, I am getting my car after a full body clearbra this weekend. Did the full wrap more for protection against vandalism as a colleague of mine had his Porsche keyed all around last year when he parked his car going in for an emergency in the hospital. I do get called quite often in the middle of the night for medical emergencies and the car can sit in the parking lot for a couple of hours. I know dirtbags can find other ways to orchestrate damage to a car but my hope is that they overestimate their damage done to the paint with the keying not noticing the fact that it is clear bra'd and leave the rest of the car.
Hospital parking - I have been to many hospitals and there are some with great parking but others which I would not bring the car. The only lot that my car gets parked at has security who knows me as they notice my car and I discussed it with them. They watch it for me and there are cameras.
I figure that if I get a chip I --it depends where . I got one on the lip(which was also scraped) and painted it. The bumper . hood, fenders , etc are all clear. I don't have snow or salt. I don't know what i woild do if i lived with snow. I probably would retire the car for winter periods.
I have made this effort to avoid "the line" . I just can't handle the looks. The car can dent anyway. It's about 2500 to wrap an entire car . Lets say the worst happens and the car gets a big scratch --the panel can be painted and it would take depreciation of about 2500 (the cost of the wrap) .
If my hood ever gets chipped -I may replace it with the Gemballa hood.
So far no chips !!!!
I might cave in one day and do one of the two cars.
Last edited by yrralis1; 03-06-2010 at 11:17 AM.