Type 1 and Type 2s.... finally a REAL answer
#1
Type 1 and Type 2s.... finally a REAL answer
Gents,
It is obvious that most everyone here is, like I had been, wondering what a Type 1 and a Type 2 REALLY is. I have read a lot of "facts" and "definitive" information but nothing that ever seemed to hold up.
SO, I sent some emails and did some asking.. from EXPERTS, not wanna-be-experts like me. A couple of them are board sponsors [thanks again].
Everyone I contacted 100% stated the following specifications:
Type 1 = hitting the stock 6750rpm limiter.
Type 2 = ANYTHING over that 6750 rpm limit.
It's that simple.
Therefore, 6751rpm will equal a Type 2 just as well as 7800rpm! It would be nice if there were more rpm points like with the 997s, but there are not. So, that is IT. Live with it.
[One point of confusion might be that Porsche finally has published info on revs regarding the 997 cars. They measure quite a few rpm points but this isn't about the 997s.....]
BTW, for those who claim it is impossible to blow a Type 2 without missing a shift or hitting the wrong gear, this is simply untrue. Come visit me and I will plug in my Durametric and place my $1,000 in cash next to your $1000 in cash and take you for a 5 minute ride and demonstrate how easy it is for me to collect a Type 2, as well as your $1000 cash. [I gotta make up for the depreciation this will cause, right?]
I will admit that it is perhaps not quite as easy with an awd tt, but in a GT2 it is quite easy to get quick wheel spin in the lower gears and another Type 2.
I am 100% confident in this Type 1/2 statement. Too many experts, including the Durametric techs, have stated that this is the standard. I hope it clears up the confusion. Hopefully my ..baiting.. statement about what causing Type 2s won't interfere with the main message [but I just couldn't resist].
Godspeed all
[and please think of this simply in terms of the old time farewell motorists used to extend to each other when setting out in much more adventurous automotive times.]
JR
It is obvious that most everyone here is, like I had been, wondering what a Type 1 and a Type 2 REALLY is. I have read a lot of "facts" and "definitive" information but nothing that ever seemed to hold up.
SO, I sent some emails and did some asking.. from EXPERTS, not wanna-be-experts like me. A couple of them are board sponsors [thanks again].
Everyone I contacted 100% stated the following specifications:
Type 1 = hitting the stock 6750rpm limiter.
Type 2 = ANYTHING over that 6750 rpm limit.
It's that simple.
Therefore, 6751rpm will equal a Type 2 just as well as 7800rpm! It would be nice if there were more rpm points like with the 997s, but there are not. So, that is IT. Live with it.
[One point of confusion might be that Porsche finally has published info on revs regarding the 997 cars. They measure quite a few rpm points but this isn't about the 997s.....]
BTW, for those who claim it is impossible to blow a Type 2 without missing a shift or hitting the wrong gear, this is simply untrue. Come visit me and I will plug in my Durametric and place my $1,000 in cash next to your $1000 in cash and take you for a 5 minute ride and demonstrate how easy it is for me to collect a Type 2, as well as your $1000 cash. [I gotta make up for the depreciation this will cause, right?]
I will admit that it is perhaps not quite as easy with an awd tt, but in a GT2 it is quite easy to get quick wheel spin in the lower gears and another Type 2.
I am 100% confident in this Type 1/2 statement. Too many experts, including the Durametric techs, have stated that this is the standard. I hope it clears up the confusion. Hopefully my ..baiting.. statement about what causing Type 2s won't interfere with the main message [but I just couldn't resist].
Godspeed all
[and please think of this simply in terms of the old time farewell motorists used to extend to each other when setting out in much more adventurous automotive times.]
JR
#2
Couldn't agree more. My Type 2's are still going up and I have NEVER EVER missed a shift. Hard shifting at redline, as well as losing 1st/2nd once in a while keeps my count going up. Nothing I can do to avoid it other than not drive.
#5
I checked my range two's before my dyno run, and again after using Durametric. Going to redline on the dyno collected me 76 new Range 2's. I agree that anytime you go to 6751 you are collecting Range 2's. Time to change my ECU redline I guess.
So what is worse, hitting the rev limiter at 6751 and getting a Range 2, or changing the ECU to go up to 7200 rpm and not hitting the limiter?
So what is worse, hitting the rev limiter at 6751 and getting a Range 2, or changing the ECU to go up to 7200 rpm and not hitting the limiter?
#6
ZUMA
My last TT had a raised rev limiter. Therefore every time it took it to 7200 (or whatever it was, I have forgotten) it registered gobs of range 2's. When I sold it had like 18,000 and still ran very strong.
My last TT had a raised rev limiter. Therefore every time it took it to 7200 (or whatever it was, I have forgotten) it registered gobs of range 2's. When I sold it had like 18,000 and still ran very strong.
#7
Hi John- Thank you for finally clarifying that point- pretty straight-forward answer and explanation particularly when compared to some of the ones on this board. Big question- Why would Porsche void a warranty for that? I suppose it is proof of abuse that they can fall back on in the particular situation of extreme thrashing of an engine.
I am flying out tomorrow to inspect and presumably buy a very cream 2003 996tt with 145 range 2's. forhamilton and jeff both thought it would be OK and so did I- because 911 tt's are beasts, elegant ones no less. If I wanted something in delicate high-heels, I'd buy Italian.
Happy New Year- David
I am flying out tomorrow to inspect and presumably buy a very cream 2003 996tt with 145 range 2's. forhamilton and jeff both thought it would be OK and so did I- because 911 tt's are beasts, elegant ones no less. If I wanted something in delicate high-heels, I'd buy Italian.
Happy New Year- David
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#8
I also have driven very carefully and came back in and checked for over revs to find several type 2's so I must concur it is possible. But I still believe that the "bad" type two people talk about is a Mechanical over rev forced on the valvetrain not an electronic one...........this below may shed some more light on the subject.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=17069
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=17069
#9
I checked my range two's before my dyno run, and again after using Durametric. Going to redline on the dyno collected me 76 new Range 2's. I agree that anytime you go to 6751 you are collecting Range 2's. Time to change my ECU redline I guess.
So what is worse, hitting the rev limiter at 6751 and getting a Range 2, or changing the ECU to go up to 7200 rpm and not hitting the limiter?
So what is worse, hitting the rev limiter at 6751 and getting a Range 2, or changing the ECU to go up to 7200 rpm and not hitting the limiter?
that's why the Cup cars have set rev limits when they qualify (higher) and when they race. the higher they rev the less hours they get before rebuild.
#10
Of course there are a few of us that can make those type 2 counts simply go away Keep in mind that anytime momentum or a raised rev limiter in a program goes over the 6750 mark the system will count that as a type 2. This is a pretty common case, you stomp on it in first gear and before you know it you smack the rev limiter as you quickly try to shift to second. You have probably caused a dozen counts as it stays in the range from the momentum of the car until you hit the next gear.
Dealers use it to their advantage. Think about all the TTs that sat on lot and were test driven by your average idiot...the car WILL leave the lot with type 2s!
Dealers use it to their advantage. Think about all the TTs that sat on lot and were test driven by your average idiot...the car WILL leave the lot with type 2s!
#12
Of course there are a few of us that can make those type 2 counts simply go away Keep in mind that anytime momentum or a raised rev limiter in a program goes over the 6750 mark the system will count that as a type 2. This is a pretty common case, you stomp on it in first gear and before you know it you smack the rev limiter as you quickly try to shift to second. You have probably caused a dozen counts as it stays in the range from the momentum of the car until you hit the next gear.
Dealers use it to their advantage. Think about all the TTs that sat on lot and were test driven by your average idiot...the car WILL leave the lot with type 2s!
Dealers use it to their advantage. Think about all the TTs that sat on lot and were test driven by your average idiot...the car WILL leave the lot with type 2s!
#14
Well that is the problem. Momentum that causes any count over 6750 will be a type two. Even if it is 6751 it will count as a type two. It is a very fine line between 1 and 2 and why so many of us have a ridiculous amount of counts on type 2. You should see my car With a raised rev limiter the car must think it is going to blow up
#15
I'm chiming in with no engineering background....but I was talking to another P-car guy and he thought that since each revolution was actually 6 ignitions, that the computer was counting 6 for each revolution....therefore you would divide the total number of Type II by 6 and get the right number of revs that actually exceeded the 6750 baseline.
Again....no science behind this, I don't even have an MIT degree...just a theory. Sounds logical....whether or not it's correct is subject to interpretation.
Again....no science behind this, I don't even have an MIT degree...just a theory. Sounds logical....whether or not it's correct is subject to interpretation.