Anyone have any experience with the Dr color chip kit?
#1
Anyone have any experience with the Dr color chip kit?
So I ordered this chip kit because I noticed some small chips in the front bumper (real tiny, nothing that you can notice til you put your face like 5 inches away from the chip). I've never used this kit before but I like the fact that they color match your exact paint (mine is MS7 agate grey) and from the vids and pics they posted, it looks good. They do have a disclaimer that says that you can only see the repair from real close, which is realistically what I expect. The clearcoat is mixed in with the paint so at least they make it easy. I orderd the squeegy which helps to flatten the bead so it blends in more. Anyone with any experience / comments on this kit?
#2
I've used the kit on my 997, not for small chips (which I just lived with) but rather for larger ones and scratches. I was happy enough with the results, especially weighed against the cost of a respray, but don't expect miracles. Also, you might consider a clear bra at least on the bumper or those chips will just keep coming and coming - unavoidable in these cars.
#3
In the past I have tried these type of kits (they all do about the same thing) and found they do fairly well on non-metallic paints,....but on a metallic paint the following works much better.
Get a factory bottle of touch up paint from the dealer,...make sure it is fresh (doesn't look like it has been sitting around for years). I get mine from Suncoast Parts as they have enough turn-around to have fresh ones always in stock.
Next get some round wooden toothpicks and sand them smooth a bit. This makes them smooth and a bit less porous.
Warm the factory touch up paint a bit (set it in the sun, stick it in your pocket for a while, etc),....making it nice and thin and flow easily. Shake very well.
Clean the chip a bit with alcohol.
Get ready with a few tooth picks and then open the paint. Don't use the brush,...much too big for a tiny chip. Use the brush to put a tiny drop of paint on the tooth pick and then gently put the drop of paint in the chip and spread it around slightly to touch all edges of the chip. Work quickly, but cautiously,...you don't want to get paint over the edges of the chip. Now let it dry completely for a day. If the chip is still recessed a bit then add another layer of paint via the same method if necessary.
If there is a raised portion of the touch up paint, I've used a product called 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to even the chip exactly with the surrounding paint. When done right, it makes the repair very, very hard to spot if you can at all.
The problem with these kits and metallic paint is that when you smooth them over you "flatten" out the metallic flakes and it makes the touch up appear lighter in color.
If you don't like the look or mess up with any of these suggestions, you can always use a bit of lacquer thinner to wipe them away and start over. It won't hurt the factory paint.
Get a factory bottle of touch up paint from the dealer,...make sure it is fresh (doesn't look like it has been sitting around for years). I get mine from Suncoast Parts as they have enough turn-around to have fresh ones always in stock.
Next get some round wooden toothpicks and sand them smooth a bit. This makes them smooth and a bit less porous.
Warm the factory touch up paint a bit (set it in the sun, stick it in your pocket for a while, etc),....making it nice and thin and flow easily. Shake very well.
Clean the chip a bit with alcohol.
Get ready with a few tooth picks and then open the paint. Don't use the brush,...much too big for a tiny chip. Use the brush to put a tiny drop of paint on the tooth pick and then gently put the drop of paint in the chip and spread it around slightly to touch all edges of the chip. Work quickly, but cautiously,...you don't want to get paint over the edges of the chip. Now let it dry completely for a day. If the chip is still recessed a bit then add another layer of paint via the same method if necessary.
If there is a raised portion of the touch up paint, I've used a product called 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to even the chip exactly with the surrounding paint. When done right, it makes the repair very, very hard to spot if you can at all.
The problem with these kits and metallic paint is that when you smooth them over you "flatten" out the metallic flakes and it makes the touch up appear lighter in color.
If you don't like the look or mess up with any of these suggestions, you can always use a bit of lacquer thinner to wipe them away and start over. It won't hurt the factory paint.
#4
In the past I have tried these type of kits (they all do about the same thing) and found they do fairly well on non-metallic paints,....but on a metallic paint the following works much better.
Get a factory bottle of touch up paint from the dealer,...make sure it is fresh (doesn't look like it has been sitting around for years). I get mine from Suncoast Parts as they have enough turn-around to have fresh ones always in stock.
Next get some round wooden toothpicks and sand them smooth a bit. This makes them smooth and a bit less porous.
Warm the factory touch up paint a bit (set it in the sun, stick it in your pocket for a while, etc),....making it nice and thin and flow easily. Shake very well.
Clean the chip a bit with alcohol.
Get ready with a few tooth picks and then open the paint. Don't use the brush,...much too big for a tiny chip. Use the brush to put a tiny drop of paint on the tooth pick and then gently put the drop of paint in the chip and spread it around slightly to touch all edges of the chip. Work quickly, but cautiously,...you don't want to get paint over the edges of the chip. Now let it dry completely for a day. If the chip is still recessed a bit then add another layer of paint via the same method if necessary.
If there is a raised portion of the touch up paint, I've used a product called 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to even the chip exactly with the surrounding paint. When done right, it makes the repair very, very hard to spot if you can at all.
The problem with these kits and metallic paint is that when you smooth them over you "flatten" out the metallic flakes and it makes the touch up appear lighter in color.
If you don't like the look or mess up with any of these suggestions, you can always use a bit of lacquer thinner to wipe them away and start over. It won't hurt the factory paint.
Get a factory bottle of touch up paint from the dealer,...make sure it is fresh (doesn't look like it has been sitting around for years). I get mine from Suncoast Parts as they have enough turn-around to have fresh ones always in stock.
Next get some round wooden toothpicks and sand them smooth a bit. This makes them smooth and a bit less porous.
Warm the factory touch up paint a bit (set it in the sun, stick it in your pocket for a while, etc),....making it nice and thin and flow easily. Shake very well.
Clean the chip a bit with alcohol.
Get ready with a few tooth picks and then open the paint. Don't use the brush,...much too big for a tiny chip. Use the brush to put a tiny drop of paint on the tooth pick and then gently put the drop of paint in the chip and spread it around slightly to touch all edges of the chip. Work quickly, but cautiously,...you don't want to get paint over the edges of the chip. Now let it dry completely for a day. If the chip is still recessed a bit then add another layer of paint via the same method if necessary.
If there is a raised portion of the touch up paint, I've used a product called 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to even the chip exactly with the surrounding paint. When done right, it makes the repair very, very hard to spot if you can at all.
The problem with these kits and metallic paint is that when you smooth them over you "flatten" out the metallic flakes and it makes the touch up appear lighter in color.
If you don't like the look or mess up with any of these suggestions, you can always use a bit of lacquer thinner to wipe them away and start over. It won't hurt the factory paint.
#5
So I ordered this chip kit because I noticed some small chips in the front bumper (real tiny, nothing that you can notice til you put your face like 5 inches away from the chip). I've never used this kit before but I like the fact that they color match your exact paint (mine is MS7 agate grey) and from the vids and pics they posted, it looks good. They do have a disclaimer that says that you can only see the repair from real close, which is realistically what I expect. The clearcoat is mixed in with the paint so at least they make it easy. I orderd the squeegy which helps to flatten the bead so it blends in more. Anyone with any experience / comments on this kit?
Have you thought about a clear film to protect the paint? Let us know if you're interested.
#6
I've done similar techniques on various rides over the years. I do like Dr Color Chips paint better than some others, but I also suggest PaintScratch.com too - both are good and high quality matches.
For technique, I use syringes (local medical supply houses) and this helps me with laying just enough paint into the chip each time. As noted above, patience is key. I've often fixed chips over a two weekend process. Clean it, build up over a couple days, let sit/air dry, then come back and revisit the following weekend.
Depending on the condition of the surrounding area, a light 2000 grit wet sanding is done, just a bit of scuff gets around the chip, most is done to even the blob down.
Then we get on it with hand glaze, polish, etc, until it is right. Careful choice of pressure and chemicals removes any surrounding marks from the light sanding, and gets the chip down to the right level.
Patience is the most important factor, followed by paint color match and skill.
Good luck.
For technique, I use syringes (local medical supply houses) and this helps me with laying just enough paint into the chip each time. As noted above, patience is key. I've often fixed chips over a two weekend process. Clean it, build up over a couple days, let sit/air dry, then come back and revisit the following weekend.
Depending on the condition of the surrounding area, a light 2000 grit wet sanding is done, just a bit of scuff gets around the chip, most is done to even the blob down.
Then we get on it with hand glaze, polish, etc, until it is right. Careful choice of pressure and chemicals removes any surrounding marks from the light sanding, and gets the chip down to the right level.
Patience is the most important factor, followed by paint color match and skill.
Good luck.
#7
I see this when I search who dr color chip is:
looks bad but the paint appears to have a close match.
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#8
I think I'm just going to get a gallardo soon, and then I'll clear bra that. I don't think its worth clear bra on my 991 since I'm already getting bored of it. Need something with more power. For now, I'll just use the color chip or the factory paint chip kit I got from suncoast with the toothpick technique.
#12
I bought a Dr ColorChip kit for my last car, an Audi with metallic paint. Given the caveats others have already mentioned, it worked very well. The color match was perfect, the process works just like they say, but it will NOT completely fill a chip with just one application. Their tech support told me to try several applications over a few days and that made the worst chip in question 90% fixed.
I jsut don't like the way clear bra's look and the film itself will show chips over time so I'd rather just address them as they happen over time. In my experience keeping a good coat of wax on the car at all times seems to help minimize chip damage too as well as your driving habits.
I jsut don't like the way clear bra's look and the film itself will show chips over time so I'd rather just address them as they happen over time. In my experience keeping a good coat of wax on the car at all times seems to help minimize chip damage too as well as your driving habits.
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