I posted my method of fixing stone chips some time ago. Since then I have fixed many more and experimented with many different ways - most found with the help of Google.

This is now my final method and most time effective for best results.

The white on my C2S has no clear coat. It is a water based paint.
After trying all sorts of methods (including air brushing) to fix ever increasing amounts of chips I have now settled on the following method:

1) Have a small tin of matching 2K paint mixed for you (look for suppliers of panelbeaters). I simply took my car to one and said - mix that !
2) Also get 2K hardener, 1200 grit wet/dry and 2000 grit wet/dry paper and one of those rectangular block pencil erasers and some glue. Some other things will be needed and mentioned later.
3) Cut a piece of the eraser off and glue a piece of 1200 grit on one side and 2000 on the other. Make sure edge of the rubber = edge of the paper. Trim with scissors if needed. You now have the perfect sanding block for the task.
4) Mix a few drops of the paint with hardener (2:1 ratio seems fine, just count the drops).
5) clean the chip with a Stanley knife blade taking care to level the edges and try and give them a 45 degrees chamfer (just lightly scratch it in as best you can without increasing the damaged size) and at the same time also get rid of any loose paint bits.
6) depending on size of the chip, use a wooden tooth pick or very fine artist brush to apply the new paint. Aim to very slightly overlap the damage area and leave a mound that you can sand down later. As the paint dries it will collapse a bit so you may need two or even three applications depending on size of the hole.
7) Leave it to cure for a day or so.
8) Now the fun bit. Using your rubber eraser sanding block use the 1200 side to wet sand with a few drops of water and get the mound about level. Don't use force, just light sanding taking care not to sand the good part of the paint - the aim is to get rid of the paint hill. Whistle your favourite tune while you do this - it will take a couple of minutes. Do not sand too much.
9) Now the magic part. Use the 2000 grit side and wet sand using a few drops of spit. I'm not kidding. The enzymes work wonders ! This time you can sand over the good paint in an effort to get the whole thing perfectly level. Again do not try and sand too much or to hard. Get it just right then stop. Feel the area around the repair and sand until you cannot feel the spot anymore.
Tip: I use head mounted magnifying glasses with a LED torch when working the area to help work really fine and accurately.
10) The good area you have now inevitably sanded "just a little around the chip". is now dulled by the 2000 grit paper.
11) Now take out your credit card (just kidding, anything that looks and feels like a credit card will do). Cut a small piece of your wife's favourite white linen and fold it over the edge of the card (just one fold). This gives you a great straight edge needed for the next step. Think of good excuse to give wife.
12) Now use Meguires Ultimate compound and apply a bit to the center of the card edge (on the linen). Use this to rub the area, frequently using a bit more compound until the area is nice and shiny again.
You can press down a bit on the leading edge of the linen/card to help progress - the straight edge will ensure that you don't create a crater in the new paint. Use mostly circular motions.
When done the repair is almost invisible and you will only see it if you look just right and have some light reflecting in just the right angle (mostly due to differences in reflectivity between Porsche's paint and the 2K stuff).
13) Now use some color match liquid wax (I use the stuff from Rally). Apply liberaly over the area and give some time to dry then give it a few wipes to get rid of it.
14) Finally finish off with Mequires Tech Wax 2.0 (which I also use for the rest of the car).
15) Open a bottle of good brew, sip and admire your handywork.

The white color turned out the hardest of all my cars to fix. I have a red one - very easy to fix - repairs become completely invisible and I have a tough time finding the spots I fixed.
Silver metallic is the easiest as long as it's only the clear coat that is damaged: Clean, apply new gloss clear coat using ear bud (dab it on), dry, sand down using above methods. All but completely invisible.

I fixed a longish scratch on my door (red car). Effectively the same method as above. It is virtually impossible to find the scratch now even if you know where to look. The paint place matched the red really well.

Hope this helps.

Rainier

 

Great post and instructions. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I especially like the spit part, will need to try that. The mod should put this in the DIY section.

 

+1 Great post. Thank you.

 

Rainier, such great information, by chance do you do house calls?

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Yes - but you can't afford me...

 

Great post mate!

I found this video very informative and it seems that your approach is similar:

 

"has no clear coat"? Is this true? I thought all colors had a clear coat applied on top of the paint.

 

All metallic paints yes.
Other paints - it depends.

This one, no. Advantage is that you can sand almost down to bare metal and still buff it to a nice gloss - disadvantage is that the paint is very thin (on the front bumper) and weak and is easily chipped.

Other disadvantage is that it is difficult to fix chips completely invisible - you can get very close to that but never 100%. You don't have the advantage of being able to cover with a clear which results in even reflectivity with the sourounding clear.
I did however cover some of my earlier fixes with a bit of clear (on this paint) and that does help the reflectivity issue so this needs to be explorer further. The disadvantage of that however is that the actual fix needs to be a bit recessed with respect to the good paint so there is room for the clear. That in itself is pretty difficult to get done perfect without exposing the edges of the good paint (which is very visible).

Rainier

 

Yes, I found that one too and even tried the trick with the pencil on one of my nicks. Did not like it though - prefered the prep using the Stanley knife blade (from another video).

One thing that had me shocked though was the sanding - there is absolutely no need to sand so much of the good paint - you have to buff all of that out again for zero advantage. I prefer the smaller sanding block made from a piece of rectangular erasor - this allowes you to work a very small area minimising the sanding of undamaged area.

One thing I missed from this video is a credible close up of the repair after it was completed.

Rainier

 

Where are you getting stone chips?

 

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Great video, but a little scary!

ChuckJ

 

Not sure about Rainier, but all of my paint chips are on the top of the hood and windshield.
The front bumper has quite a few nicks, but it holds it well due to it being plastic, not too concerned there.

 

I have 8,000 miles and no chips on the front paint of the car. I do have 3m clear bra 1/2 way up the hood. Are you saying the windshield itself or the leading edge of the roof?

 

Great work... shame you didn't put together a video.