993 C4S, not moved for 5+ years. Whats needed?
#1
993 C4S, not moved for 5+ years. Whats needed?
This car (sorry for the poor pic) has been standing out under a roof for 5-6 years. Nothing has been done to preserve it but a wash now and then. Its a 96 and has roughly 140k miles on it. Some of these on track and when it was shut down it had some oil leaks.
What would be needed to get it moving again? Which parts will be damaged from just standing there?
As mentioned nothing has really been done to preserve it. The exhaust havent been sealed off. Windows has been tightly shut and so on.
What would be needed to get it moving again? Which parts will be damaged from just standing there?
As mentioned nothing has really been done to preserve it. The exhaust havent been sealed off. Windows has been tightly shut and so on.
#5
Yes, there will be surface rust on everything in the engine. But it will go away very fast once you start it up. Basically any metal that was not coated in oil, will have light rust on it. The bushings & shocks should be fine, but they might be stiff till they get worked back in.
You might just want to try to start it, & take it around the block a few times, to see how it is.
Oh, you might want to change the tires as well, they may be rock hard & not give any good traction.
#6
1. Drain gas and put in a new fuel filter
2. Change oil
3. New battery
4. Pull the air filter and make sure a mouse hasn't gotten in there and chewed through the filter (which would get sucked into the intake upon starting)
5....and most important. pull the fuel pump fuse or dme relay and crank the car until it builds up 5 bar oil pressure (may take a bit of cranking). Then replace the fuse/relay and start it.
Once you have verified it starts, then you can go through it and do your plugs, cap, rotor, oil leak repair etc.
The shocks will need to be replaced. Not necessarily because it sat there for 5 years, but because 993 shocks suck....badly.
2. Change oil
3. New battery
4. Pull the air filter and make sure a mouse hasn't gotten in there and chewed through the filter (which would get sucked into the intake upon starting)
5....and most important. pull the fuel pump fuse or dme relay and crank the car until it builds up 5 bar oil pressure (may take a bit of cranking). Then replace the fuse/relay and start it.
Once you have verified it starts, then you can go through it and do your plugs, cap, rotor, oil leak repair etc.
The shocks will need to be replaced. Not necessarily because it sat there for 5 years, but because 993 shocks suck....badly.
#7
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#9
(Get a brand new relay as that one is most likely shot. Ive seen them go in a simple winter storage situation.)
If it makes proper oil press. then its def. worth investigating.
Bring a fire extinguisher just in case. I never trust fuel lines and fittings that old and with that many miles. For that matter the wiring harnesses that has seen those many miles, some tack time and possibly some woodland creature teeth. A bad ground can make for a rather interesting day/smell.
As for the internals having slight surface rust, You won't know for sure unless you actually look. Ive pulled apart a '87 3.2 that had been sitting for 19 years with ~100K miles on her. That motor was freaking spotless. I have yet to see the insides of a 993 engine (properly maintained) look anything other then perfect.
Only thing that had any mentionable corrosion was some of the stuff pre-throttle body in the 3.2 i mention.
As for driving the car around.
IF it does start and run/idle well... Just be careful and check, check, CHECK the brakes. If it was on the track, Ill just assume ATE SuperBlue (or w/e). Brake fluid is by nature extremely 'dry'. It will suck moisture right out of the air.
Also, IF you can try and lift the front of the car off the ground and look at the front diff. AND take a look at the brake lines from caliper to hard line. If they are SS lines and the fluid does not look too creamy (in the fill)... Ya might be good to go.
OHHHH last but def. not least. Its a C4S, so check the additional braking items. Turn the key to accessory, you should hear the accumulator start to 'hum/buzz' from the front of the car for about 45sec. After it has stopped buzzing, rest your foot on the break pedal. It should feel like a 993 C4 pedal.
EDIT: Try and find a generic scan tool or durametric tool. It can really only help.
I have a few more tricks up my sleeve. But gotta get back to work.
PM or e-mail me if ya want any help. I've been playing with air-cooled cars form pretty much my entire life. (heck, i sell 'em, race 'em and love them! lol)
If You decide to not bother with the car. Please let me know as it would make a great shell for a GT2 conversion.
Im MORE then happy to help anyone with simple stuff like this. Just shoot me an e-mail or PM
Cheers
Last edited by FastrTHNu; 01-08-2010 at 11:09 AM.
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