Quick Spacer Question!
#17
That sounds scary.... that works without cracking the paint? no heat or maybe even a fender rolling tool?... I was just going to actually cut them out with a dremel and touch up the cut edges on the inside with some clearcoat or touch up paint so it doesnt rust... but I am looking to go with what works from experience.
#18
That sounds scary.... that works without cracking the paint? no heat or maybe even a fender rolling tool?... I was just going to actually cut them out with a dremel and touch up the cut edges on the inside with some clearcoat or touch up paint so it doesnt rust... but I am looking to go with what works from experience.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rolled+fenders
#19
Those offsets (ET means 'pushed in') are 5mm lower than OE both front & back.......meaning pushed in 5mm less than OE wheels. 5mm is pretty much nothing of course.
Remember how people all said you need 14 or 15mm spacers?......that was from OE wheels. You already have 5mm of that from the wheels, so the max you'd probably want to add is 9 or 10mm in spacers front/rear......hence a total of 14 or 15mm.
I know many are not fond of my my bling street wheels (not what I run on the track & other) but.......here's what that 14 or 15 looks like (resulting in 36/31 offset) on a car that's lower than your car (by another 20-30mm)....not recomended unless suspension is tuned stiff.
Good luck to ya.........getting it to look the way you want, is all that ever counts.
#21
Australia is ROW height (approx 20mm lower both, front & back than North Am cars)......many choose to go lower but over here we 1st have to get past the 15-20mm lower that you get out-of-the-box.
Those offsets (ET means 'pushed in') are 5mm lower than OE both front & back.......meaning pushed in 5mm less than OE wheels. 5mm is pretty much nothing of course.
Remember how people all said you need 14 or 15mm spacers?......that was from OE wheels. You already have 5mm of that from the wheels, so the max you'd probably want to add is 9 or 10mm in spacers front/rear......hence a total of 14 or 15mm.
I know many are not fond of my my bling street wheels (not what I run on the track & other) but.......here's what that 14 or 15 looks like (resulting in 36/31 offset) on a car that's lower than your car (by another 20-30mm)....not recomended unless suspension is tuned stiff.
Good luck to ya.........getting it to look the way you want, is all that ever counts.
Those offsets (ET means 'pushed in') are 5mm lower than OE both front & back.......meaning pushed in 5mm less than OE wheels. 5mm is pretty much nothing of course.
Remember how people all said you need 14 or 15mm spacers?......that was from OE wheels. You already have 5mm of that from the wheels, so the max you'd probably want to add is 9 or 10mm in spacers front/rear......hence a total of 14 or 15mm.
I know many are not fond of my my bling street wheels (not what I run on the track & other) but.......here's what that 14 or 15 looks like (resulting in 36/31 offset) on a car that's lower than your car (by another 20-30mm)....not recomended unless suspension is tuned stiff.
Good luck to ya.........getting it to look the way you want, is all that ever counts.
Gregg
That looks perfect.I will obviously remove the current spacers(rears at least) and review..I don't have a problem with running different spacers on these wheels.
The only issue is if I use my stock hollows for track, I will still want to use the existing spacers.So I'd have to carry two sets???
As far as lowering it..unfortunately I had to grin my driveway lip into the garage yesterday toa void rubbing and that was after installing C4S lip.
I am thinking of aftermarket suspension..does it make sense to get this and leave car at stock height?
#22
OK, so H+R Spacers, 7MM Front 15 Rear and H+R Springs + OEM wheels are all good?
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
#23
OK, so H+R Spacers, 7MM Front 15 Rear and H+R Springs + OEM wheels are all good?
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
Also, I would recomend you pay the extra for RUF spacers. Having owned H&R products in the past, I have no doubt that the quality of the RUF spacers is leagues better than H&R.
#24
That was the reason my dealer left my rear spacers on..I only have stock I/C piping, but he was worried about rubbing.
#25
OK, so H+R Spacers, 7MM Front 15 Rear and H+R Springs + OEM wheels are all good?
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
Perfect. Thanks for the help guys.
Just a quick note. I was reading the thread and I noticed that some of you are using spacers for aftermarket wheels. I don't see the point if having an 11 inch rear wheel and still pushing it out. I remember having my Techarts in 19x11 on my Cab and they were perfect. Seen them on many Turbo's as well and they look great with no spacers.
Either way, thanks for the help.
tw
#26
The only issue is if I use my stock hollows for track, I will still want to use the existing spacers.So I'd have to carry two sets???
As far as lowering it..unfortunately I had to grin my driveway lip into the garage yesterday toa void rubbing and that was after installing C4S lip.
I am thinking of aftermarket suspension..does it make sense to get this and leave car at stock height?
As far as lowering it..unfortunately I had to grin my driveway lip into the garage yesterday toa void rubbing and that was after installing C4S lip.
I am thinking of aftermarket suspension..does it make sense to get this and leave car at stock height?
On doing suspension work and leaving it at stock height....remember you are already at ROW height. Trackers might do alot w/their suspension and not necessarily have 'lowering more' at the top of their agenda. Probably the most common reason people mess w/suspension is cosmetic...ie drop it.
On the ramps and inclines (and your clearance).....you'll get better at it. I'm much lower than you and I drive it daily. Just keep in mind speed, angle, and how your front suspension unweights when you lift from a momentary brake.
flatsix ....not seeing point of push out if you have 11s.......they are 2 dif things.......one is the width of your tires/wheels.....the other (offset) is where your wheel sits in the wheel arch or fender....ie in/out.....and actually that becomes more critical the wider your tire/wheel is.
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