drive-train slack & getting rid of it
#1
drive-train slack & getting rid of it
my 1st->2nd shift is very violent - partly because i'm a maniac and partly b/c there's no easing the clutch i have.
with the power, my big fear is breaking a drive shaft or axle (or who knows what else.)
i've vowed not to spend more money on this car right now but i'm curious what could be done to eliminate the slack?
- chuck
with the power, my big fear is breaking a drive shaft or axle (or who knows what else.)
i've vowed not to spend more money on this car right now but i'm curious what could be done to eliminate the slack?
- chuck
#3
my 1st->2nd shift is very violent - partly because i'm a maniac and partly b/c there's no easing the clutch i have.
with the power, my big fear is breaking a drive shaft or axle (or who knows what else.)
i've vowed not to spend more money on this car right now but i'm curious what could be done to eliminate the slack?
- chuck
with the power, my big fear is breaking a drive shaft or axle (or who knows what else.)
i've vowed not to spend more money on this car right now but i'm curious what could be done to eliminate the slack?
- chuck
also not sure what "slack" means.
what I do know is this transmission (or what you may have left of yours) does not like violent or maniacs.
it needs to be shifted smoothly, and unhurried. anything else and you will go through syncros, gears, and driveshafts and axles will also break.
You can definately NOT speed shift this tranny.
Last edited by tom kerr; 11-17-2007 at 07:29 PM.
#5
Chuck,
I had excesive driveline play and associated clacking noises when the play was taken up and it was driving me crazy. Nobody could find anything wrong. Finally, I had the inner CV joints replaced and the clacking disappeared. After replacing the cv joints, there was still another noise that had recently developed and we found the bolts had loosened on the bracket that supports the front drive shaft and tightening these bolts brought the car back to like new driveline play. There is still some play, as some play is normal, but in my case replacing the inner CV joints made a huge difference (mine had 78,000 spirited miles and several 1/4 mile runs on them). You may want to look at the CV joints - it's an inexpensive repair. The thing is..once we installed them, the new ones felt the same as the old ones when on the lift. They have a lot of play, even new. But under driving, the clunking noise was gone and driveline play was greatly reduced. Needless to say, I was very pleased to resolve this issue.
I had excesive driveline play and associated clacking noises when the play was taken up and it was driving me crazy. Nobody could find anything wrong. Finally, I had the inner CV joints replaced and the clacking disappeared. After replacing the cv joints, there was still another noise that had recently developed and we found the bolts had loosened on the bracket that supports the front drive shaft and tightening these bolts brought the car back to like new driveline play. There is still some play, as some play is normal, but in my case replacing the inner CV joints made a huge difference (mine had 78,000 spirited miles and several 1/4 mile runs on them). You may want to look at the CV joints - it's an inexpensive repair. The thing is..once we installed them, the new ones felt the same as the old ones when on the lift. They have a lot of play, even new. But under driving, the clunking noise was gone and driveline play was greatly reduced. Needless to say, I was very pleased to resolve this issue.
#6
Firmer engine and tranny mounts may take a bit of that drive train lash out. Where you'd really feel it would probably be during lift throttle in first or second when you feel that lunge/ rubber banding effect.
This will of course come at the expense of increased cabin vibration and noise.
This will of course come at the expense of increased cabin vibration and noise.
#7
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#8
John D - thanks for the tip. my car has 53k miles and, yes, i get the clunk from 1->2nd.
Seal Grey & Jimmer23, thanks for reminding me that i do have those semi-solid motor mounts sitting in the closet. need to get them installed.
as for the "maniac" comments, i was being colorful. i do power-shift 1st to 2nd; without doing so, the car will fall out of boost due to the big drop off in 2nd gearing (as Woodster alludes to.)
- chuck
Seal Grey & Jimmer23, thanks for reminding me that i do have those semi-solid motor mounts sitting in the closet. need to get them installed.
as for the "maniac" comments, i was being colorful. i do power-shift 1st to 2nd; without doing so, the car will fall out of boost due to the big drop off in 2nd gearing (as Woodster alludes to.)
- chuck
#9
Chuck,
The CV joints did wonders for my driveline slap. With your miles and driving style, I would definetely try a new set. I think they were less than $200 each - the whole job was $750 installed and so worth it.
The CV joints did wonders for my driveline slap. With your miles and driving style, I would definetely try a new set. I think they were less than $200 each - the whole job was $750 installed and so worth it.
#11
John D - thanks for the tip. my car has 53k miles and, yes, i get the clunk from 1->2nd. Seal Grey & Jimmer23, thanks for reminding me that i do have those semi-solid motor mounts sitting in the closet. need to get them installed. as for the "maniac" comments, i was being colorful. i do power-shift 1st to 2nd; without doing so, the car will fall out of boost due to the big drop off in 2nd gearing (as Woodster alludes to.) - chuck
LWFW?
The RPMs should not not drop so quick that you need to powershift. Are you experiencing a slow shift during normal 1 to 2 gear changes? What are you running for shifter? Seems like you may have a few things to analyze before troubleshooting driveline slack when you know that you are power shifting 1 to 2. Best to fix the problem versus it's symptoms.
#12
I drive like a ***** until 3rd, sorry cannot help
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