Eibach (FVD) Adjustable Sway Bar Kit
#1
Eibach (FVD) Adjustable Sway Bar Kit
Anyone who has any experience of the Eibach (FVD) Adjustable Sway Bar Kit?
Right now I have it at medium both in front and in the rear..
I'm wondering if it would be better to have it one step harder in the rear and if that would prevent understeering?
According to FVD the rear sway bar is 0,5 mm thicker than the one in the front...
"Front 23.5mm (3 way adjustable)
Rear 24mm (3 way adjustable)"
..so even with the front and the rear on the same setting the rear should be harder.
My PSS9 is already set at 3/4 (rear/front).
Right now I have it at medium both in front and in the rear..
I'm wondering if it would be better to have it one step harder in the rear and if that would prevent understeering?
According to FVD the rear sway bar is 0,5 mm thicker than the one in the front...
"Front 23.5mm (3 way adjustable)
Rear 24mm (3 way adjustable)"
..so even with the front and the rear on the same setting the rear should be harder.
My PSS9 is already set at 3/4 (rear/front).
#3
Prevention wioll take much more, reduction is very much possible. For the 996 TT you'd almost be better off without a front.
For safety reasons, follow these steps until you are familiar with the changing handling characteristics:
-Reduce the front bar stiffness. This will make the car want to oversteer more, which is counter unersteer, I'm sure this wont be close to solving the problem, but try it anyways.
Drive a session or two
- After going full soft in front, if you need more reduction, then go back to medium in front and full stiff in the rear. The car will tend even more towards neutral/oversteer now.
Try that out for a couple of sessions
-Finally, the best reduction of understeer is full soft in front and full stiff in rear, but depending on how much power you have it will oversteer easily as well, especially if you have rwd. That's why I say to do it gradually, because the handling changes a bunch with just one adjustment and you have to be ready for the changes, and drastic ones can get you hurt.
Also try more negative camber in front, like 2.0 if you are running street tires and 2.5 and up for R-comps. And a little added rear camber as well.
Good luck.
For safety reasons, follow these steps until you are familiar with the changing handling characteristics:
-Reduce the front bar stiffness. This will make the car want to oversteer more, which is counter unersteer, I'm sure this wont be close to solving the problem, but try it anyways.
Drive a session or two
- After going full soft in front, if you need more reduction, then go back to medium in front and full stiff in the rear. The car will tend even more towards neutral/oversteer now.
Try that out for a couple of sessions
-Finally, the best reduction of understeer is full soft in front and full stiff in rear, but depending on how much power you have it will oversteer easily as well, especially if you have rwd. That's why I say to do it gradually, because the handling changes a bunch with just one adjustment and you have to be ready for the changes, and drastic ones can get you hurt.
Also try more negative camber in front, like 2.0 if you are running street tires and 2.5 and up for R-comps. And a little added rear camber as well.
Good luck.
#4
Weird ,My Eibach kit came with 24mm for the front ,23mm for the rear
I set soft in the front ,and medium in the rear ,I H&R street coilver ,the car is very nutural now ,perfect for my street driving.
I set soft in the front ,and medium in the rear ,I H&R street coilver ,the car is very nutural now ,perfect for my street driving.
#5
Of course try it on a familiar track and see if there's improvement!
(I'm using H&R sways so no idea about the Eibachs)
btw. I've got the FVD PSS9's too and they are good pieces...Have you heard what's the difference between them and normal ones ?
If I remember correctly the dampers are a bit harder on 1-4 settings and so are the springs or something like that? (= Good thing!)
Your TT seems to be really well modified for sport/track use! You have the power but also the brakes/tires/handling =) Are there any "normal road cars" faster on the tracks where you drive it? I doubt if you can drive
(I'm using H&R sways so no idea about the Eibachs)
btw. I've got the FVD PSS9's too and they are good pieces...Have you heard what's the difference between them and normal ones ?
If I remember correctly the dampers are a bit harder on 1-4 settings and so are the springs or something like that? (= Good thing!)
Your TT seems to be really well modified for sport/track use! You have the power but also the brakes/tires/handling =) Are there any "normal road cars" faster on the tracks where you drive it? I doubt if you can drive
#6
Thanks for all your answers!
I guess I'm just have to try and see what suits me the best..
You're right! The car handles very well at the track..
No standard Porsche has ever outrun me, and I guess that the only one that could do that now is the CGT and possibly the new GT2.
At around 1:30 in this clip you can se how it compares to a 360hp GT3 Mk1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6oncYI-f6A
(watch the rear mirror!)
Had some problems with vibrations from my front discs, as you can see, which made me hold back some at the throttle.. I guess I could cut something like 5 sec in one lap without that problem..
I guess I'm just have to try and see what suits me the best..
You're right! The car handles very well at the track..
No standard Porsche has ever outrun me, and I guess that the only one that could do that now is the CGT and possibly the new GT2.
At around 1:30 in this clip you can se how it compares to a 360hp GT3 Mk1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6oncYI-f6A
(watch the rear mirror!)
Had some problems with vibrations from my front discs, as you can see, which made me hold back some at the throttle.. I guess I could cut something like 5 sec in one lap without that problem..
Last edited by McBurn4ever; 12-01-2007 at 10:34 AM.
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