If you had the opportunity to regear your transmission. And had the choice of either having the gears replaced with your factory installed transmission or having a new transmission swapped out all ready to go.
The reason why I am asking is because "Orbit Racing" is developing a core exchange package (which would speed the process dramatically), whereas you can just get your Tranny swapped out in a day instead of taking apart your original Tranny. He would have different gear ratios packages to suit your personal needs.

The swapped out unit would be new, all the synchro's would be steel, gears would be brand new from Porsche Motorsports.

The question would be does not having matching numbers be an issue (If you can save a great deal of time)?

 

Xico,

There is a little more to it. I believe Guard Transmission gears are a stronger gear. They are also slightly noiser. Guard also offers a wider range of gear ratios. Another question would be, what about the syncro's? Stock bronze of steel?

I just do not see pre packaging really working. In addition the time required for this mod is only about a week once you have the materials.

 

Can someone please explain what this does and why it is better than a stock tranny, thanks.

 

Rave TT,

Different gears do different things. Start with first. If you have modded your turbo, you will find when you launch you spin your tires. You will also find it is too short. You spend little to no time before you have to shift to second.

When you spin your tires you are losing time. If you lenghten first then it is harder to spin the tires. You get more traction and therefore are quicker. The other thing to remember is, when you shift, you lose rpm's. You want to choose gears that when you shift, you end up in what the call the sweet spot or the spot where you really start to make torque. I could go on with this for each gear but it would be very long.

The long and the short of it is, if you match your gearing to your dyno curve, the car will run like it has fifty to sixty more hp/torque. The car is far more responsive

Steel syncro's are far stronger than the stock syncro's. You can shift faster and downshift at far higher rpm's without burning the syncro.

 

The concept of re-gear transmissions is very appealing but the $8-10K price tag makes it one of the most expensive singel mods one can do.

 

CJV,

Thanks for the info. how much is this mod?

 

And that is without the tranny cooler. Expensive yes, but your response is spectular. If you just change 3rd thru 6th and leave the rest of the car stock, you will walk away from an otherwise stock 996tt after 100 mph.

 

To do third thru sixth gears with steel syncro's in second through sixth is about $7000-$7500. Because first gear is also part of the shaft, first and second gear and first gear syncro are another $4,800. The 7,000-7500 price includes labor of 2,500 for tranny remove, install gears and re install. If you do all of the gears at the same time the labor is still 2,500.

To add a tranny radiator, pump and filter is about $2,500.

 

That is expensive, I'll stick with my stock, thanks again for the info.

 

Spoke to Roger "Orbit Racing" he has been so busy preparing for LEMANS" that is coming up in two weeks, we had to postpone my regearing for a month.

As you all know, I am regearing 3rd, 4th 5th. Chad what do you think about 2nd?

Roger asked me about the Matching numbers, I would prefer my original tranny.

 

Xico, I thought you had the engine swapped out on your car. If so the numbers are off, but it is documented from PCNA/PAG. Matching numbers might be real important to the collector looking for an all original car... for a person looking to buy a car like yours (modded to the gills) I would think matching numbers would be less important. My $.02

 

Orli,

The purpose of changing third through sixth is to use higher ratios ( say a .81 instead of a .75 in sixth). In other words the mph attained in each gear is less but the acceleration in each gear is greater. Again attention must be paid to the sweet spot so after each shift you are in your best power range and your motor doesn't lag.

First and second gears have the opposite problem and this becomes noticable after you mod the motor. They are too short. You are shifting in a blink of the eye. You are losing traction. I believe the stock first is a 3.86 where a 3.50 or 3.16 is far better. Here you want more time in these gears and less loss of traction. You should change both so as not to fall out of that sweet spot I talked about earlier.

One other thing I failed to say is some people actually lenghten six. Acceleration in sixth then goes down, however, top speed goes up. It becomes like an overdrive. Ruf does this to some of their cars to get maximum top speed.

So to answer your question, I would not change second unless I did first also. What does Roger advise?

 

Chad,

Roger advise's that 1st and 2nd should remain the same, but change 3,4,5 and 6. Now that I upgraded to the Stage 4 GT, comes another issue............when I regear next month, do I have to raise the rev limiter on my ECU to 7250.

As you know "Xico" has the same EVO GT package and has his tranny regeared. He had to take the ECU out of his car and send back to EVO because the rev limiter would kick in right at the sweet spot of the Stage 4 GT power band.

 

Where does your hp on the dyno start to drop off. That is where you want to set the rev limiter. Bare in mind, the higher your set it and use it, the more reduuced engine longevity you will incurr.

I had to change first and second on KA because they were only good for tenths of an second and traction was non existent.