Would that make these figures slightly high or low?

 

Different locations, different dynos, different settings used on each of the dynos, 1.5 years apart, NO relevance. It was a great run
though and a good trap speed from that set-up KPG.


MK

 

Idles like a bulldozer ... I like that...

Although, I'm still in the midst of trying to imagine a 996TT bulldozing something

 

Please eloborate on the idle. I have a somewhat rough idle, and am wondering what the reason could be? LWFW?

 

Well I got my computer back from upsolute yesterday, and same day ordered the parts from Kevin at UMW in Washington State... Today the box was at my door. Tomorrow I'll be in the shop with his scanner pulling the info off my computer... Monday I'll ship it out to Kevin and by Friday next week I'll probably have the new tune, the 5bar FPR and the new Actuator springs installed. I am stoked, and THIS IS CUSTOMER SERVICE!

Mike

 

[quote=joetwint;1515615]Suman...You have stated many times that your car dynoed 690rwhp on the stock internals...quote]

Yeah, no sh*t! Suman's posts in this thread are without merit, yet he preaches with great authority. It is really not helpful at all in a forum such as this. It is misinformation, plain and simple. (edit: For the record, I do not believe it is intentional).

 

TXGold, nothing to do with the LWFW. I had a Bank 1 Variocam fail due to sealing rings on the cam that were shot. It would not hold oil pressure and therefore the cam advance or retard would not hold the proper degrees.

 

What was the idle like. I am not sure I have ever heard a bulldozer idle, but imagine it is a rough irratic idle. What faults were you seeing?
Thanks for the reply KPG, and sorry for the thread jack.

 

It idled like all three cylinders on Bank1 were misfiring, which they were. Once It got above 3500 rpms it ran fine. It had a total of 7 codes thrown when it finally went sour on me. It had an intermittent code P1349: Cam Adj Bank 1 Below Limits that would light the CEL every now and them but it ran fine. This went on for a whole Summer.Even when I cleared the code with Durametric I could still see it as a pending code as soon as it started up again. When the VarioCam finally failed it threw:
P1349
P0011: Pos of Cam in Relation to Crank Bank 1 -Below Limit
P0300: Misfire Detection- Sum Total
P301: Misfire cyl 1
P302: Misfire cyl 2
P303: Misfire cyl 3
And it also threw a Bank 1 O2 sensor code, cant recall that one. Ultimately , the car was a CPO and Porsche R+R ed the engine and replaced both Bank 1 + 2 VarioCam modules and the sealing rings. Since all this work was on their dime, that was what led to the full engine build. I only had to pay to install the crank and rods once the motor was on a stand stripped down

 

[quote=roadsterdoc;1530758]
I just dont want my good friend Elliot to blow his car up for a misuse of a package. A program designed for k24/26's should be for just that. Like the stage 4 program from EVOM should be for exactly that k24's.

 

Stating one pure fact that I suggest a custom tune over any OTS software for the bare fact that if one item is slightly different or not exactly for what the tune is designed for, it will be flawed. Just trying to get Elliot to fix his problem by tuning the car with whats on it. We have that option since a custom tuner is in our area. With the gt700 kit, I had an AFR gauge in my car the entire time so I was always in safe parameters. I also have logged my car for knock. Prior to that build, when I first put the k16/24's on my car with the stage 4 program my top end AFR would go 13's until I put a 5 bar in. This 5 bar was quickly learned by the ECU and the car went 13's again up top. THis is when I called Stephen and went gt700 due to the fueling kit. Now im talking about the k16/24's with EVOMS made wastegates actuators which were never adjusted(put on how they were given to me). Again I am saying there are two tuners in my area that have this ability to tune to whats on the car. I much rather trust there tune through logging or on the dyno because it is being done on the specific car at hand. OTS programs when dealing with major horsepower seems like the wrong way to go for these reasons. If one person decides to buy a diff intake or change there plenum they can drastically change Afr. Even the intercoolers from Evoms being put on the pcar will change the car and the ecu should change accordingly. Just my 2 cents

 

Suman, that was well stated. I agree that when going for extreme power levels (beyond 700 crank) it is essential to use custom tuning. Realize that there are plenty of people with up to 700 crank with "off the shelf" tuning that have had logged thousands of miles with no issues.

I feel the need to point out (so please don't feel offended) that the turbos are not what makes the A/F lean; it is the relationship between tuned parameters...the maps for air flow (or boost), fuel, timing, and temperature. Whether a large or small turbo, or even a supercharger, these maps do not change. They are written by the programmer and may have limitations (max boost, for example). If a turbo is capable of going beyond these limitations then you can run into trouble. A K16/24 hybrid should not exceed the limitations of a typical K24 program.

You mentioned bad fuel. A bad tank of fuel can toast an engine with factory turbos and factory programming.

 

Since this thread is getting so long and I seem to be lost in it. Who do you recommend for this type of tuning and if I may ask , why?

Thanks

 

so no good for a track car??

 

I think Suman's posts have merit, his suggestion is the best thing you can do. Get a custom tune if you have the ability.

This doesn't just apply to the Porsche, it applies to all custom FI applications in the aftermarket world. Nothing new.


Seems that nobody has provided any real proof which vendors run files for this particular setup will run the proper AFR, timing etc. Haven't seen one posted yet and any proof.

I agree that I would hope the vendor who makes the turbos spent a ton of time on the dyno testing/tuning and ensuring things like pre-detonation is avoided with the proper run files. If other vendors have tuned it for that particular hybrid turbo...great..just show us the dynos with AFRs and what exact modifications were on the car!!!

Basic Otto cyle 4 stroke theory:

Too early timing with too less fuel as RPMs increase causing the air/fuel mixture to burn too quickly...equals...detonation before TDC. Knock, bang, bad things to the precious expensive engine in your car.

Hence, this is why you should always pay the extra $$$ to ensure you are getting AFR readouts when dyno testing. Crucial.

Lastly, get yourself a AFR gauge in your car that will show history, highest/lowest AFR and stores the info. There are gauges that do that.

An AFR is really a must have, not sure why many people don't have gauges on their 996TTs that are modded with aftermarket turbos and power packages. They are just trusting that the tuner/installer did everyting perfect and the tune file was done exactly for the mods they have..and some are!! But to think there will be no issues ever and to not have an AFR in your car is just asking for trouble.

Even if you had a custom tune for your exact setup, things can, and will go wrong eventually with your custom setup. That is the reality of modifying and doing aftermarket tuning..a lot more work to ensuring it runs well and avoiding bad things...like bending your rods because you put an Upsolute program on your hybrids that weren't designed for it, and your run lean, then pre-detonation..and engine goes clankity clank...

The best bet is to get a tune file that is proven/tested on the dyno already for your exact setup. Otherwise, a custom tune..it's the only way to be truly sure the car is done right for your exact setup.

Just my two cents...flame away.