02bb,
Yes they did, however, two things.....first, I am not sure that they have all of the types I am looking for and second, if I stick with white with aluminum bezels, it is an easy add-on (white gage faces and alum. bezels) to my dash gages to make them match.

 

Ken,
If you decide to go with the Autometer type guages, I would reccomend using a Wideband AFM. Very accurate!

 

That's exactly what I need!

 

Alex,
Yours has already been ordered.

 

Are there any other brands you are considering? I've run Autometer Ultra Lite gauges before, as well as Defi and HKS gauge suites. Personally, I don't think Autometers belong in our Turbos.

Relatively speaking, they look crude and are unsophisticated. I'm not saying they don't do their job, but simply saying that you may want to consider a more advanced gauge set than Autometer, especially considering all the high-tech installs you already have in your cockpit.

 

Stephen,
I am open to any suggestions. BTW, did you receive my PM?? I wouldl like to talk to you.

 

For some reason, I don't get notifications for PMs or posting... I'll give you a buzz as soon as I'm done watching the GP of Europe (Tivo).

 

BTW, one of my favorite things about my Supra was everytime I'd turn it to ign position, all 4 gauges (3 on pillar, 1 in dash) would zero-out, wind to max position, and then back to zero... felt like a pilot in a fighter. It also at peak/hold as well as replay. Very useful when tuning. I see that the constraint you have is gauge size due to desired location. I know I'm most likely in the minority in this, but I love a-pillar gauge mounts. It's ideal in terms of line of sight and distance, and I simply love the look.

 

Ken,

Cylinder Head Temp is to determine if my head temp is not in a critical range. NOS and 1.8 does elevate head temps above what you see on the regular water temp. The head temp. usually runs five to thirty degrees hotter than standard water temp.

Air/Fuel especially with high boost and NOS can become lean.

Exhaust Temp.- With a switch I can check each exhaust port to determine if any one cylinder is running lean. This way I can make adjustments and have a smoother running engine.

Water-I can determine when the engine attains 157 degrees and this is where I stop the warm up and drive the car below 2000 rpm's until oil temps attain a minimum of 157 degrees.

I have an ANDIAL intercooler digital gauge that reads pre, post and delta intercooler air temps. It is on the right hand side in the below pic.

Oil-When the oil temp attains 157 degrees F then I can start pushing the car. It will also tell me when the oil is too hot for proper protection of the engine. In other words when the oil has broken down.

Tranny Temp.-Again I will not push the car until the engine and tranny oil attains a minimum of 157 degrees F. In addition if oil becomes too warm I start the tranny cooler. If it is still too warm then time to stop and check fluid or ?

I picked Dakota Digital for quality, reliability, digital read out in individual degrees and they are fairly compact. I'm sure there are other good gauge companies out there.

The stock water temp unit is useless with my engine. Your actual temperature is a guess. I don't want to prematurely wear or blow this motor.

Ken, I would have to go back and look at your list of gauges.

I did not use existing sending units. All you have to do is add a new bung plug wherever you want to install the new sending unit. All my stock gauges still function.

There is a cover plate on the tranny. That is where we mounted the sending unit for tranny temp. I don't recall where on the head the head temp was mounted. I will ask Rob.

 

Chad,
What have you found the delta air temp to be for the IC's?

 

Ken,

That is a loaded question because it varies all over the place depending on ambient temp and boost.

 

How about a few examples?

 

I think it looks great, but if you have ever used a A/F meter like the one posted you will know that they are USELESS. They are pretty to watch but without a wideband O2 thay simply are not accurate enough to provide anything usefull.

-dave w

 

I can remember at about 80 degrees ambient we were seeing 210 degrees in and about 99 degrees out. I don't remember. the boost at the time but we were on it briefly. I have found the efficiency of my intercoolers are about 85 percent. What makes the difference is the boost. More boost, more heat. Less boost, less heat.

The other thing I found is liquid CO2 has no affect from 60 degrees and below. The affect becomes greater as the ambient temperatures increase above 60 degrees F.

When I get the car back later this week I will do an accurate test for you.

 

Chad,

Any tests or inputs on the oem IC? What IC are you running?

Thanks.