since more than handful of people here already bought it, tried & love it, i have a question for yo all. (i have planty sitting in my garage as well )

it is not wax, and u can not use wax at all. so does that mean ur car does not need wax anymore? i used to wax the car once every 1.5 month & in the middle i just use Eagle1 ''WAX AS U DRY.'' it works really good & dry the car really well. i'm still not sure about RejeX since it's not wax. my question will be how long will it actually last?(i don't care what it says on bottle ... i mean real time deal!) i don't want to use it after every wash because i still believe last rubbing on the clear coat actually it's better for the car/paint. the reason why i ask is because i used it on my hood once & it felt like a polisher to me... so in the long run it's not a good idea for the paint as u taking away a very thin layer of ur clear coat everytime u use it. please advise!

TIA

 

Different people use RejeX differently. I for one have never waxed or washed my 996/Cayenne and just use rejex every month or two.

All I do when it get a little dirty is detail spray and wipe it off.

So this is my process...

1. Buy the car
2. Detail Spray the car
3. Rejex the car
4. When dirty detail spray the car again. Sometimes I just use the CA Duster if it's not that dirty.
5. RejeX again in a month or two.

Here is the Cayenne just rejexed...

 

kirby,
caught u didn't use it on the wheel, LOL!

 

I prefer a wax than RejeX, I heard that RejeX gives a fake shine, thats what I heard about it, don't get me wrong, not trying to flame anyone who uses it.

 

I've never used Rejex but what is a 'fake shine'? If it shines, it shines, right? Isn't that what we are trying to accomplish with wax, Rejex, etc.?

 

John,
i don't know if the term ''fake shine'' is the right term for it but i can totally understand DEETZ's point, and that's indeed the point that i posted this.

first of all i'm not an expert on the paint so the terms i use may not be right, but the idea is pretty simple to get. to better describe ''fake shine,'' for example, if u really polish ur paint/clear coat to a point that is close to mirror smooth, means really really flat, then u'll get a really shiny surface. however, u'll lose a layer of clear coat because u just polished a layer of it out. later on u'll find the paint does not have or doesn't look it has depth on it. on the other hand, a good wax, or RejeX suspose to build a layer on top of the paint to protect and give the shine to the paint. in this case this is not a fake shine anymore & it actually preserve the clearcoat.

to get in to this topic more, i usually like the orange peel on the car (see a lot on Mercedes) cuz u know that's from factory & the clearcoat is still thick. some people don't like it but i do, just like some people want their car to be really shiny but it's fake shine... it'll not last long & everytime u do it takes away the clearcoat slowly.

again, i'm not pro on this but i know what i'm talking about. hopefully we got some pro here to join in!

 

the thought of having to leave rejex cure for 12 hours scares me, there is a lot of dust that can/will attach in that time and i'm afraid of scratches getting the rejex off. Has anyone noticed a problem w/ this?

 

Thanks for the explanation. I certainly do not want to lose a layer of clearcoat off my paint no matter how long the shine lasts. Was about to go down to Akurat to pick up a bottle of Rejex on special to try out so would be interested to hear more opinions on this.

 

scott,
i think it's not what u thought.

put it on & wipe it off, and then let's sit for 12 hrs... am i right

 

ahh, From the thread I read in the 996 section I believe I was thinking that you had to put it on and let it cure for 12 hours and then wipe it off. I may be wrong.

 

yea i just read the instruction. put it on wipe it off & let it sit.

 

not to be nit picky, or that it matters really, but it seems to make more sense to me to call the actual polishing and buffing of the clear coat to a smoother surface with more shine a "real Shine" and to apply something ontop that fills the scratches and adds a shiny layer on top a "fake shine"...but eaither way a shine is a shine. and doing the 1st and protecting aqnd enhancing this with the 2nd is usually the best approach. hence claybar/polish/wax routines....

I think the primary question remains. Where does RejeX fit in this equation?

-dave w

 

yup!

Took that picture before I finished the car.

Not to bad, took about 45 minutes to do the Cayenne, takes 20minutes to do the Carrera. I'm sure I'll be able to do the Cayenne faster once I get used to the car.

 

Arling: Orange peel is not a good thing and has nothing to do with the depth (either quantity or appearance) of paint on your car. In fact, orange peel is an imperfection in your paint (acceptable in mass produced cars) and distorts a paint's true beauty. For that "wet" look with great depth, you want to reduce orange peel. All true "concours" cars have been color sanded to eliminate virtually all orange peel.

With respect to the natural carnuba wax vs synthetic polymer product debate, some say that synthetics (which offer great longevity) result in a more "plasticy/fake" shine with less depth as compared to a high quality carnuba wax. This debate reminds me of the "tube" equipment preference of audiophiles -- tube/analog equipment supposedly has a more natural/softer sound than digital/transistorized equipment. I've tried so many different products (wax, polishes, glazes, etc) over the last 20 years looking for that magic bullet and really haven't found any miracle product. There are lots of quality products that can make a car look great, but in the last analysis, it's all in the prep/detail work. Just my 2 cents and probably worth less.

 

Jack hit the nail on the head with regards to "fake shine". Many people, including myself, feel that syntethic polymers provide a plasticy or very reflective shine that is not natural. While you cannot fault a polymer for its durability or hardness, the reflection can be an issue. I still prefer the depth of color and clearness that you get with a natural white carnauba wax. The best of both worlds is to use a polymer and then top it off with a white carnauba wax. Every person has their own preference though, and I can definately understand why some people like polymers more.