Rockitman:
I am very sorry if my post sounded like I was putting anybody down. I was just frustrated with getting NO response on a simple track brake questions.
I apologize for having offended anyone. Most of the cars on this board are incredible.
To each, his own.
Porsche Rules!!!!

 

Not a problem and I can appreciate your level frustration when you cannot get a response in a timely fashion for a technical question. The tone in your note just came off as a bit trite and seemed a bit condascending to some on this board (me included)...Perhaps my response was equally inflammatory and it should not be construed as a personal attack towards you...just a little tit for tat..
All square!!!

As far as brake pads, a lot of guys who track quite frequently use Pagid Yellows...They work well both on street and track...Some of the harder compounds are not as good for all around use since they require a lot of heat in order to deliver their optimal friction characteristics(coefficient)...Something that is difficult to do on the street. The GT2/GT3 bd. on RennList has quite a bit of discussion on brake pads as of late. Check it out.

Take care...

EDIT: Pagid Yellows are relatively kind to the rotors if that is a concern....

 

Might want to try the Pagid Orange pads, great track pad and don't eat up rotors. They do squeal around town and like to have heat in them..I change pads for the track only, run stock pads on the street and change pads and tires for the track. The Oranges will last longer at the heavy braking tracks.

 

Go with Pagid Blacks (RS14 compound). It's a ceramic pad. A friend of mine is running them on his Turbo, and is VERY happy with them. I also suggest some stainless steel, braided brake lines. (I'm too lazy to type up the benefits of them - read this).

 

I'll chime in on this too. I did my first DE using stock pads and wore them out for the most part by the end of the last session. I had enough to get myself home, but not much more.

From there I went the route described by others, where I bought a dedicated set of track pads and put them in for the event, taking them out afterward. The pads I used were Pagid Orange and they were a big improvement over the stock pads both in performance and longevity. I also flushed my brake system and replaced the stock fluid with ATE Super Blue.

The next step for me was to go with Stainless Steel lines and in an effort to get even better braking capability, I put Pagid Blacks in the front, keeping the orange in the back. The result was indeed better performance but I had a problem with my ABS system that I believe was related to using the different pad materials. (My ABS failed, resulting in my flat spotting the front set of brand new MSC's -- irritating!)

My next and current upgrade is going to PFC full floating slotted rotors in combination with the PFC 97 compound pads. For now, I am just installing the front rotors. After Arlan Motorsports, finishes the design of a hat that will be compatible with the parking brake system, I will switch out the rears. Learning from my past mistake, I will use the same pad at all four corners.

As a side note, I have not seen a better-made piece of work as the PFC rotors. I should take a picture of them before I use them -- beautiful stuff! Oh, and I am going to a new brake fluid made by Prospeed that has an even higher boiling point (both wet and dry) than the ATE fluid. I am doing a DE event this weekend, so I'll let everyone know how it all works out.

 

Sorry about the lack of response. I am a huge track fan but my office relocated and we were unable to access the net for 5 days! My .02 is orange or blue for personal preference with good results. Steel lines are great to prevent line damage from debris or a blown tire. The super blue is a great fluid, but just as important is the flush before each track event. Does your track have a lot of hard braking areas? Mine (CMP) is hard on brakes and tires. But I love it and so have modded with perfectpower 14" front floating rotor, slicks on stock 18" wheels, steel lines, GT-3 air baffles for front and rear brakes, and I constantly monitor the three tread zones on each tire (and the caliper/rotor temp) with pyrometer immediately upon exit of the track as well as tire pressures and how the two inter relate. There is one totally unrelated thing I learned about oil this past weekend, and I thought I would share as an extra bonus for the late response. Mobil 1 is supplying all the oil free in new engines and so porsche puts the sticker on the car (we know this). The oil itself varies from time to time b/c Mobile subcontracts out the refining to other vendors unlike valvoline which makes all of it's own oil (didn't know that). Many top porsche master mechanics don't like Mobil (didn't know that) and are aware of the "politics" that go into making Mobile 1 the recommended oil (didn't know that). Furthermore, many Master mechanics recommend changing oil more often than 15, 000 miles or one year. In fact, in harsh climate states like Florida, their recommendation is closer to 4,000 miles (didn't know that). Furthermore, some dealers may not change the filter when the oil is changed prior to the 15,000 miles unless you ask them specifically to do that (didn't know that). In Europe, the recommendations for oil change are SIGNIFICANTLY more often than in the American owner's manual (didn't know that). Happy tracking PS: everyone at the track is going stiff crazy on suspensions. The STIFFER the better. But I listened to one VP of Ohlins who gave some very good food for thought. Stiffer is not always better, the idea is to keep the tire patch constant at all four wheels during turning and aggressive moves and this is not always translated into Stiffer is Better. Sometimes stiff feels like it is faster and better handling when in fact faster track times may relate a little lean that keeps the patch better all around and absorb bumps better and "follows the road better". I know I will be revisiting my settings on my PSS-9s and see if stiffer really is better or just in my head, or perhaps even wrong.

 

Ferodo DS 2500s. Tried various Pagids and Porterfields, all with varying degrees of success. Tried a set of DS 2500s on another car and was sold. Going on my Supra at SP Engineering as this is written. Fourteen-inch Brembos and four-piston calipers, front and rear, with Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve.