StopTech and Mov'it Brake Kits
#16
I installed the StopTech kit on a 01 S4 a while back. It was a night and day difference in terms of tracability.
The Stoptech folks put together a well sorted kit with all of the pieces included -- a painless install.
The Stoptech folks put together a well sorted kit with all of the pieces included -- a painless install.
#17
Originally posted by PorschExtremist
I have been researching the Moton, what are the main differences between the Race and Clubsport setups? Best place to purchase Moton? Thank you.
I have been researching the Moton, what are the main differences between the Race and Clubsport setups? Best place to purchase Moton? Thank you.
#19
Originally posted by PorschExtremist
I don't need anything that intense to the degree of a three and four way race setup, but wanted just to know the basic differences of the race and clubsport setups from Moton.
I don't need anything that intense to the degree of a three and four way race setup, but wanted just to know the basic differences of the race and clubsport setups from Moton.
As far as the braking. Many over look that braking is a funtion of the suspension. If you're shocks are not controling the springs then the tires aren't getting the best contact thus your brakes will be less effective. Everything works together and there is no doubt a good set of shocks can actually effect your braking distance.....
#21
Weight is another huge factor. Our stock big reds are made to handle 3500 pounds exceedingly well, and makes the car one of the best performers in the braking arena right out of the box. My TT is now 3000 pounds, and needless to say the stock kit essentially becomes "oversized" when headed down this road. If sub-3000 is your target then moving to another set of brakes becomes more about unsprung weight (the reason I'll probably end up doing it eventually if they can figure out the pccb's) or bling. For right now, with 3000 pounds and my abilities on the track, the brakes are certainly not the achilles heel of this car.
In fact the limitation is likely to remain myself for quite some time. Don't change too much on the car without tracking extensively in between. By doing so we deny ourself the learning experience that comes with tweaking parts as they become limitations. Throw it all on at once and you have no idea what is really the prime mover...
Sean
In fact the limitation is likely to remain myself for quite some time. Don't change too much on the car without tracking extensively in between. By doing so we deny ourself the learning experience that comes with tweaking parts as they become limitations. Throw it all on at once and you have no idea what is really the prime mover...
Sean
#22
I have been tracking the car and have been working to improve the car as I go on, so from my experiences and talking to numerous people I realize what has to be done now to fit my needs. How have you shedded 500 lbs so far?
#23
PorschExtremist,
My comments about tracking were not pointed at you, but rather a reminder to us all. Sorry if that was not clear.
Here are some weight reductions so far:
removed:
spare wheel/tire
compressor
tools
jack
rear seats
rear belts
rear wiper/motor
console delete kit
insulation glue sanded from carpets in rear
front 5 mph bar and shocks delete
rear 5 mph modification
rear bumperettes delete
mats delete
replaced:
seats (now gt-3)
battery (now odyssey)
rear wing (gt-2 carbon)
hood (cf)
wheels (now bbs)
The above adds up to about 300. I started with a 2001 model (less reinforced, no glove comp. etc) which was weighed at 3375 at Akkurat.
Further changes - some parts are in my garage, some are ordered, some just planned - include:
lighter y-pipe
clutch assist delete
doors (now cf)
rear window (now lexan)
front fenders (cf)
lighter exhaust (my current ruf is heavy)
brakes (pccb, this is just a maybe for less unsprung)
intake (planning s-car-go top with ruf hoses at bottom)
light clutch/flywheel
manual euro boxter mirrors
Deleting the awd (probably 150 lbs) on top of this should get me to under 2800.
I will weigh the car at Akkurat to get a real number when done.
Best,
Sean
My comments about tracking were not pointed at you, but rather a reminder to us all. Sorry if that was not clear.
Here are some weight reductions so far:
removed:
spare wheel/tire
compressor
tools
jack
rear seats
rear belts
rear wiper/motor
console delete kit
insulation glue sanded from carpets in rear
front 5 mph bar and shocks delete
rear 5 mph modification
rear bumperettes delete
mats delete
replaced:
seats (now gt-3)
battery (now odyssey)
rear wing (gt-2 carbon)
hood (cf)
wheels (now bbs)
The above adds up to about 300. I started with a 2001 model (less reinforced, no glove comp. etc) which was weighed at 3375 at Akkurat.
Further changes - some parts are in my garage, some are ordered, some just planned - include:
lighter y-pipe
clutch assist delete
doors (now cf)
rear window (now lexan)
front fenders (cf)
lighter exhaust (my current ruf is heavy)
brakes (pccb, this is just a maybe for less unsprung)
intake (planning s-car-go top with ruf hoses at bottom)
light clutch/flywheel
manual euro boxter mirrors
Deleting the awd (probably 150 lbs) on top of this should get me to under 2800.
I will weigh the car at Akkurat to get a real number when done.
Best,
Sean
#24
I have used the stoptechs on a number of different cars and have nothing but great things to say about both the company and their products. They are one of the few (if not only) companies that actually design their kits to work with your stock master cylinder capacity and bore size, brake pedal travel, etc...and one of the few (if not only) to include dust seals on the pistons which is a must for street cars unless you plan on regular rebuilds.
we ran them on both our pro race cars last season with excellent perrformance all season. and the Lee family are super nice a helpfull people. I wouldn'yt consider anything else for an upgrade on any of my cars.
but the question does remain: do you need and upgrade? consider changing just pads and fluid to something more aggressive for track use...
dave w
we ran them on both our pro race cars last season with excellent perrformance all season. and the Lee family are super nice a helpfull people. I wouldn'yt consider anything else for an upgrade on any of my cars.
but the question does remain: do you need and upgrade? consider changing just pads and fluid to something more aggressive for track use...
dave w
#25
I just upgraded my front rotors to the Perfect Power 14" floating setup which retains the stock caliper. I tracked the car this weekend at Texas Motor Speedway with temps in the mid 90's and the brakes didn't fade and the holes in the rotors stayed clean. I installed the GT2 ducting front and rear last year (stock rotors Pagit orange pads, and ATE blue fluid) and still experienced fade during a 20 minute DE session. This track was run backwards this weekend which allows for a 150mph to 60mph braking zone after the front straight. Definitely great bang for the buck.
Paul
Paul
#26
I was notified today about your post from several different people. These people ranged from 6Speed members that are running the GTR brakes to sponsors of the site. All of them know how the product performs and felt that this needed to be looked at by one of us directly. In order to help you, I will need some more information. Please forward me your contact info so we can get started.
Thank You
Thank You
#27
I'd go with Stoptech, I have heard many good things about them, and they definitely are well designed and well sorted. And, well, you really can't go wrong with Brembo.
I've heard that Mov'it has quality control issues. YMMV.
I've heard that Mov'it has quality control issues. YMMV.
#28
Originally posted by BremboInfo
I was notified today about your post from several different people. These people ranged from 6Speed members that are running the GTR brakes to sponsors of the site. All of them know how the product performs and felt that this needed to be looked at by one of us directly. In order to help you, I will need some more information. Please forward me your contact info so we can get started.
Thank You
I was notified today about your post from several different people. These people ranged from 6Speed members that are running the GTR brakes to sponsors of the site. All of them know how the product performs and felt that this needed to be looked at by one of us directly. In order to help you, I will need some more information. Please forward me your contact info so we can get started.
Thank You
Thanks for coming forward and stepping up- that is much appreciated. I pm'd you my info and feel free to take this to Email or via phone (alex@mangogrits.com or 408-528-7774). The December shoot out is long gone but a new one is in the works and perhaps we can have this fixed by then, which would be great.
#29
I just wanted to update you folks to say that Brembo/Race Technologies has been really forthcoming with information and explanations as to what may have gone wrong with the process. They definately want to fix the issues (which do seem to be the pads and how they were bedded) I've had, which I'm happy about.
In any case, it's cool that they came forward and care about their customers in that sense. I hadn't contacted them directly before, which looking back I wish I had done because I would have gotten this taken care of sooner
I'm going to make sure that the brake pads get properly bedded and test them out at Thunderhill next weekend. I know these kits work on the ALMS Audi race cars so they've gotta work on ours. It seems like everyone else that has these brakes and/or used them has had great results
Also to clear this up- NO the GTR kit does not work with stock 18 inch TT wheels. However, GT2 wheels with their different offsets and sizes are known to have worked In any case you can do what I did and work with Kinesis to make you a custom 18 inch wheel that does fit. Fikse and/or BBS can do the same...
PS For those of you that have a Tiptronic and like to dabble with drag racing, one of the unintentional benefits to these brakes I've found is as a "high stall" lol. With the stock pads I could only brake boost up to 2700rpms before the tires broke loose. Nowadays I can launch off of 3400rpms and more boost... I don't think they were designed for that but hey it works!
In any case, it's cool that they came forward and care about their customers in that sense. I hadn't contacted them directly before, which looking back I wish I had done because I would have gotten this taken care of sooner
I'm going to make sure that the brake pads get properly bedded and test them out at Thunderhill next weekend. I know these kits work on the ALMS Audi race cars so they've gotta work on ours. It seems like everyone else that has these brakes and/or used them has had great results
Also to clear this up- NO the GTR kit does not work with stock 18 inch TT wheels. However, GT2 wheels with their different offsets and sizes are known to have worked In any case you can do what I did and work with Kinesis to make you a custom 18 inch wheel that does fit. Fikse and/or BBS can do the same...
PS For those of you that have a Tiptronic and like to dabble with drag racing, one of the unintentional benefits to these brakes I've found is as a "high stall" lol. With the stock pads I could only brake boost up to 2700rpms before the tires broke loose. Nowadays I can launch off of 3400rpms and more boost... I don't think they were designed for that but hey it works!
#30
Sharky:
Can I offer you a little more ammo. Calculate the piston area for the stock brakes, front and rear. Now do the same for the big red. Also calculate the pad area front and rear between both units. I have not run these numbers but I suspect that the brake bias has been changed by the "upgrade", you may have problems with the ABS force/frequency curves because of the different volumes between the two units. I would love to hear their comments on these issues.
Not dinging you, trying to help.
Can I offer you a little more ammo. Calculate the piston area for the stock brakes, front and rear. Now do the same for the big red. Also calculate the pad area front and rear between both units. I have not run these numbers but I suspect that the brake bias has been changed by the "upgrade", you may have problems with the ABS force/frequency curves because of the different volumes between the two units. I would love to hear their comments on these issues.
Not dinging you, trying to help.