Great Work John. Inspiring!

 

John D;

Nice looking install. I have heard good things about Morel.

Can you tell me how to remove the door panel?

Thanks

Kevin

 

Thanks, guys - this was a very enjoyable project and the results are well worth it. I don't use the stereo all the time, but when I do, it's great to have such awesome sound at your disposal. It's enhances the already extraodinary Porsche experience.

Kevin, the key to removing the door is to get the cover off of the handle (in my case the carbon fiber piece). Be careful and spread the force over a large area, so as not to crack the piece. It will come off fairly easily. There are a couple of torx screws beneath it and one in the storage compartment. There is also a screw behind the latch and another one behind the "plug" that says "airbag" (gently pry it off with a soft plastic tool). The triangle piece by the mirror has to be removed also (by forcefully pushing it upward to unsnap it). Once all the screws are removed, just pull the clips free around the circumference of the door. It comes off very easy in an upward motion. I thought it would be more involved than it was...

Do not disconect any of the latching conections, you can just set it to the side like I did with everything connected. You will have plenty of room to work.

The other speakers are simple - they just attach to the rear of the grill which is surface mounted and comes out without any panel removal.

 

john great install. if you are ever in NY area id love to hear how the system came out. id be really interested as well to see how those subs in oem box sound.

i, personally, opted against "upgraded subs in oem box".
the oem box to me is not really a box... its abs plastic. therefore i am curious to hear how much of an improvement you get with upgraded drivers in that flimsy, oem box. i think ultimately it all depends on music you listen to, but i think the fact that were "upgrading" is a testement to how dissatisfied we are with oem. i think for very light music or even music with lots of vocals and guitar any of these upgrades might be sufficient. If you like base, and the music of your choise has a strong baseline (techno, hip hop) then i highly recommend something abit more powerful.

for all those who are interested in a factory like sized box, caraudioinnovations sells two setups. i have absolutely no affiliation to them just a satisfied customer.
1 setup with 4 x 5 inch focal subs (which is thier best option for oem sized box), and then 3 x 6.5 jl audio w0.
i chose the latter, which cost around 800.
FOR THE BOX SIZE, i think it sounds amazing. however for a guy like myself that is used to at least a 12' box adequately powered, of course no comparison.

i know their are a few other options out there for people who will not be happy with 3 or 4 five inch woofers. bottom line one adequately powered 12" woofer will get the job done unlike 6 x 5 inch woofers etc...
if we are adamant on keeping weight low and using stock sub shelf (like i was) then the above 3x 6" jl w0 option is great.

 

oh and for clarification yea john your subs are really considered "midbasses" since they play from 35-5000Hz. however since you most likely play them low at 35hz probably till 100hz they do actually serve as "subs".

 

Mike,

I think you have the same amp as I do and had the same 3-way morel speakers. Can you offer any tips on the crossover settings and the amp settings? I really don't understand how all the adjustments work...If it makes a difference, I would prefer a configuartion for rock music.

You are probably right about the subs - if you want big bass, a custom enclosure would inevitably be a better choice, but I have cranked the bass to that OEM box and have not heard any break-up, vibration or other odd sounds - it works extremely well from my perspective. I will point out though, I personally don't care for a lot of bass in my music, so the OEM enclosure is sure to fit my preference of low to moderate bass.

 

john
can i keep my factory amp ? i really dont want to do another sound system again..
can the factory amp power 2 6" subs ?

 

sure steve, but the amp was designed to put more power into the impedance of the factory sub, I would check first what the resistance of the speakers are and how they are wired in the factory enclosure

 

Jbonsox
how do i check the resistance of the Fatory bose sub's ?

 

John,

I am a bit confused on how your system is, and I don't have much experience with the audison amp, though I know the guys at audison really well.

My question is that you have a set of matching 3 ways correct? why didn't you use the 3 way for the front?

usually when I do this type of vehicle, the midbass will go into the door, and be amplified from the amp with no passive x-overs, just a bandpass setting of the amp atthe same cut-off frequencies of the passive x overs. reason being the placement of the 4" and tweeter on the dash needs to be separated volume wise from the door. so when you turn it up to get more midbass the front's don't over power the sound and you get a bunch of mid range and tweeter screaming. I will use a 2 way x-over for the dash speakers. set at about 200hz highpass going to the passive x-overs depending on the speakers.

which requires a 4 channel amp for the front plus another channel for the subs

Do you have the accuset x-over adjustment tool used to set up those morels? also i believe Morel is on the east coast, what part are you at? maybe Jimat morel can get it tuned for you

hope this make sense since i am multi-tasking right now

 

The system is set up in 5-channel configuration. The Morel 3-ways are in the front dash/front doors (front channel). I have a tweeter and mid-range in the dash and a mid-bass in the door and the crossover is dividing the sound between these three components. Then I have co-axials in the rear (rear channel) for fill and the subs in the OEM sub enclosure (sub channel). The cross-overs have a few settings that can be used to vary the signal to the 3-way Morels and the amp has a ton of settings...some of which control how much power goes to each channel. For instance with the stereo playing and the fade setting on the head unit set at 0, I can move a certain dial on the amp and increase volume or output to the rear channel/speakers, in effect increasing the volume or fade to the rears. Right now all these dials are set about 1/2 to 3/4 of their max setting. Then there are frequency dials on the amp that I have no idea what to do with...it's OK though, as the sound is good as is currently configured, but I would like to learn what these settings actually do...

 

john yes. up until 2 months ago i had the same front setup of yours. 3 way morel elates driven by the same lrx6.9 audison amp. (guys this is one great light, and multi functional amp. very flexible and very powerful for 1 amp)
like yourself, i also have a sub box dedicated in the back. however our only difference is the rear speaker setup. therefore i run a 3 CHANNEL setup. comprised of front L and R. Then my sub is ran mono as the 3rd channel.
the audison amp, very flexible, with many configurations, comes with configuration cards. I'm sure you seen them and used them. It explains the potential configurations and the settings to get the desired configuration. you need to follow the directions on how to set the amp.
THE FREQUENCY DIALS ON AMP THAT YOU HAVEN'T SET: PLEASE READ BELOW.
you should have it set on 5 channel mode. Front, Back and mono (i think its channel c for sub/mono)A and B will be your front and rear. both should be set as HIGH PASS. IMO The fronts i would cross at around 65-80HZ. The rears, depending on the drivers and how they sound HIGH PASS around 80HZ.
your sub should be crossed over LOW PASS at around 80 to 100hz depending how it sounds with your choice of music.
most of the other settings will be told by the 'audison config cards' that are included.

REGARDING YOUR XOVERS ON ACTUAL XOVERS: on gain: i had it on -2db for tweeter and 0db for midbass. Slope: try 12db slope at first and see how it sounds, then go to 6db and see how it sounds. this is all a matter of preference so you can mess around here.
i remember hearing a difference between the 4 slope options (you have slope option for midbass/mid slope and mid/tweeter slope). again all a matter of preference, but with the gain i think -2db attenuation is a must on tweeter and 0 at highest for mid.

your mx33.3 xovers have set xover points at:
midbass = plays upto 300hz

mids = 300-3800
tweeter 3800 and up

this is the mx33.3. this does not mean that these 3 drivers cant be configured to play other frequencies. every driver has its own range of frequencies, just like with your subwoofer question.


MCLUVIN:
john can i keep my factory amp ? i really dont want to do another sound system again..
can the factory amp power 2 6" subs ?

my first upgrade in this car consisted of a completely stock everything with only 1 change. UPGRADED SUBS. HOWEVER in order to do this you need to get an aftermarket mono or 2 channel amp to drive the upgraded subs. WHY you ask? bose is notorious for having awkward impedance on their subs. They dont want you just "swapping subs".

you have 2 options: get after market subs in stock looking box, or same box, like john D, with an after market amp and blend in to the rest of your stock system, or just upgrade everything. the former option is obviously the quicker cheaper fix. it will sound way better if the bass is your only concern.

 

Thanks Mike,

I'll have to take a look at the pre-set frequency adjustments and compare to your notes...

 

John D.

Thanks for the tip on the door panel. I'll try not to break anything.

Kevin

 

You're welcome and good luck with it. Just take your time and it should go fine. I had never done it before and it went fairly easily for me.