Protomotive Air Intake Install
That's serious stuff...Unfortunately, there is no way I would wrench on my car to do this...
#21
02-11-2008, 01:13 PM
Looks great John, I'll seriously consider this now as well. Now if I understand the pictures correctly, by hooking up a filter on each turbo directly, you get rid of the stupid plenium and associated junk hose going around behind the engine? That alone would make it worthwhile for me!
#22
02-11-2008, 01:19 PM
Great job John! It looks very clean and proffesional!
Have you installed the secondary pump yet? Are you planning on doing a GT2 front pump or stick with the factory?
Are you getting rid of the top intercooler ducting?
Your going to love this kit compared to the 600hp! The sound of the turbos spooling up is AWESOME with the fender mounted intakes!
Have you installed the secondary pump yet? Are you planning on doing a GT2 front pump or stick with the factory?
Are you getting rid of the top intercooler ducting?
Your going to love this kit compared to the 600hp! The sound of the turbos spooling up is AWESOME with the fender mounted intakes!
Last edited by dgreen78; 02-11-2008 at 01:23 PM.
#23
02-11-2008, 01:51 PM
Do you have pictures of the setup with the rear fender liner installed?
What is the clearance from the inside of the rear tire to the intake tubing?
Is there an option to purchase the intercoolers with a nipple in the location of the relocated BPVs so the can be installed with tubing rather than welded?
Is there a tune option with the MAF for venting to atmosphere or are the BPVs missing the reroute to the intake in the pictures?
Setup looks good. Price?
What is the clearance from the inside of the rear tire to the intake tubing?
Is there an option to purchase the intercoolers with a nipple in the location of the relocated BPVs so the can be installed with tubing rather than welded?
Is there a tune option with the MAF for venting to atmosphere or are the BPVs missing the reroute to the intake in the pictures?
Setup looks good. Price?
#24
02-11-2008, 02:03 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: MPLS, MN USA
Age: 63
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John,
Great write up and sharing of info!
My set-up is identical except that I have the HUGE Protomotive I/C's.
The FORD maf tops off a very unique set-up that will support very large
future HP possiblities.
Marty K
Great write up and sharing of info!
My set-up is identical except that I have the HUGE Protomotive I/C's.
The FORD maf tops off a very unique set-up that will support very large
future HP possiblities.
Marty K
#25
02-11-2008, 02:46 PM
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Northeast US
Posts: 1,293
Rep Power: 81
Contigo,
The reason I did this is I had the Protomotive MAF with a V-Flow and it surged/hunted slightly at idle. We tried shaping the inside of the V-Flow and it improved the condition, but it was still just not perfect. I did this install mostly to correct the idle issue, as the Proto MAF idles fine with the Prot0 Y-Pipe and booosted air metering. As a side benefit, Todd K has dynoed the V-Flow vs. this intake system on the same package and has found that this intake improves throttle response, as well as, adds about 20HP in the mid and top end, which is the best spot to improve this car now. This is a final tweak to a package that I have become extremely satisfied with in terms of power, throttle response, turbo response (lack of lag) and now the plan is to just drive and enjoy the car for what it is. I have no more power upgrade plans at this time, as I am so pleased with the performance of these K24/18g's with fuel. The car ran 11.01 in the 1/4 mile (less than 2/100 from a 10 second run) on street tires before this work. This additional work should effectively make it a 10 second daily driver!
TDK, I had never done anything like this before. I am fairly handy, but this was really easy stuff, just time consuming and detail oriented - I think you would surprize yourself if you tried it. I sent out all the welding after marking and epoxying the parts in place, so it was really mostly disassembly and re-assembly of not too difficult parts to reach.
Contigo,
The reason I did this is I had the Protomotive MAF with a V-Flow and it surged/hunted slightly at idle. We tried shaping the inside of the V-Flow and it iomproved the condition, but it was still just not perfect. I did this install mostly to correct the idle issue, as the Proto MAF idles fine with the Prot0 Y-Pipe and booosted air metering. As a side benefit, Todd K has dynoed the V-Flow vs. this intake system on the same package and has found that this intake improves throttle response, as well as, adds about 20HP in the mid and top end, which is the best spot to improve this car now. This is a final tweak to a package that I have become extremely satisfied with in terms of power, throttle response, turbo response (lack of lag) and now the plan is to just drive and enjoy the car for what it is. I have no more power upgrade plans at this time as I am so pleased with these K24/18g's with fuel.
TDK, I had never done anything like this before. I am fairly handy, but this was really easy stuff, just time consuming and detail oriented. I sent out all the welding after marking and epoxying the parts in place, so it was really mostly dis-assembly and re-assembly of not too difficult parts to reach.
Jimmer, That is correct.
Don, I did not have the 600, but the 700 with V-flow and Proto MAF on the V-Flow. And yes, I love it. It should even be a bit better now. I had the upgraded fuel pumps front and rear installed last winter with the original V-Flow700 version. Todd told me they do not use the upper ducting due to the air filter, so yes, I plan to eliminate it. I do think I could squeeze it in though, but figured I would not to bother.
Evader, Here is a picture with the liner installed, although it is the back side -
There is about 3/4 - 1" clearance between the tire and the air intake tubing. It's a close fit, but there is plenty of clearance.
I welded the part of the DV that has threads on it, so that they can be replaced if need be by unscrewing them from the threaded nipple. The threaded piece could always be used as a nipple with tubing for a different brand in the future - you just need to weld somethinhg to connect a tube to and this could double as a universal mount...
The diverter valves vent to the atmosphere and that is how Protomotive does it. You could if you would like to keep the OEM configuartion weld a fitting on the air intakes and recirculate everything to the intakes as the factory does. I am going to try it like this and if the noise is too loud or unpleasant, it is easily routed to the intake to quiet things down. Marty said it sounds like a bull whip cracking when the diverters blow off to the atmosphere! So the verdict is still out on that for me...
Thanks, Marty - This was fun! I really enjoyed it.
The reason I did this is I had the Protomotive MAF with a V-Flow and it surged/hunted slightly at idle. We tried shaping the inside of the V-Flow and it improved the condition, but it was still just not perfect. I did this install mostly to correct the idle issue, as the Proto MAF idles fine with the Prot0 Y-Pipe and booosted air metering. As a side benefit, Todd K has dynoed the V-Flow vs. this intake system on the same package and has found that this intake improves throttle response, as well as, adds about 20HP in the mid and top end, which is the best spot to improve this car now. This is a final tweak to a package that I have become extremely satisfied with in terms of power, throttle response, turbo response (lack of lag) and now the plan is to just drive and enjoy the car for what it is. I have no more power upgrade plans at this time, as I am so pleased with the performance of these K24/18g's with fuel. The car ran 11.01 in the 1/4 mile (less than 2/100 from a 10 second run) on street tires before this work. This additional work should effectively make it a 10 second daily driver!
TDK, I had never done anything like this before. I am fairly handy, but this was really easy stuff, just time consuming and detail oriented - I think you would surprize yourself if you tried it. I sent out all the welding after marking and epoxying the parts in place, so it was really mostly disassembly and re-assembly of not too difficult parts to reach.
Contigo,
The reason I did this is I had the Protomotive MAF with a V-Flow and it surged/hunted slightly at idle. We tried shaping the inside of the V-Flow and it iomproved the condition, but it was still just not perfect. I did this install mostly to correct the idle issue, as the Proto MAF idles fine with the Prot0 Y-Pipe and booosted air metering. As a side benefit, Todd K has dynoed the V-Flow vs. this intake system on the same package and has found that this intake improves throttle response, as well as, adds about 20HP in the mid and top end, which is the best spot to improve this car now. This is a final tweak to a package that I have become extremely satisfied with in terms of power, throttle response, turbo response (lack of lag) and now the plan is to just drive and enjoy the car for what it is. I have no more power upgrade plans at this time as I am so pleased with these K24/18g's with fuel.
TDK, I had never done anything like this before. I am fairly handy, but this was really easy stuff, just time consuming and detail oriented. I sent out all the welding after marking and epoxying the parts in place, so it was really mostly dis-assembly and re-assembly of not too difficult parts to reach.
Looks great John, I'll seriously consider this now as well. Now if I understand the pictures correctly, by hooking up a filter on each turbo directly, you get rid of the stupid plenium and associated junk hose going around behind the engine? That alone would make it worthwhile for me!
Don, I did not have the 600, but the 700 with V-flow and Proto MAF on the V-Flow. And yes, I love it. It should even be a bit better now. I had the upgraded fuel pumps front and rear installed last winter with the original V-Flow700 version. Todd told me they do not use the upper ducting due to the air filter, so yes, I plan to eliminate it. I do think I could squeeze it in though, but figured I would not to bother.
Evader, Here is a picture with the liner installed, although it is the back side -
There is about 3/4 - 1" clearance between the tire and the air intake tubing. It's a close fit, but there is plenty of clearance.
I welded the part of the DV that has threads on it, so that they can be replaced if need be by unscrewing them from the threaded nipple. The threaded piece could always be used as a nipple with tubing for a different brand in the future - you just need to weld somethinhg to connect a tube to and this could double as a universal mount...
The diverter valves vent to the atmosphere and that is how Protomotive does it. You could if you would like to keep the OEM configuartion weld a fitting on the air intakes and recirculate everything to the intakes as the factory does. I am going to try it like this and if the noise is too loud or unpleasant, it is easily routed to the intake to quiet things down. Marty said it sounds like a bull whip cracking when the diverters blow off to the atmosphere! So the verdict is still out on that for me...
Thanks, Marty - This was fun! I really enjoyed it.
Last edited by John D; 02-11-2008 at 02:59 PM.
#27
02-11-2008, 03:01 PM
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Northeast US
Posts: 1,293
Rep Power: 81
Thanks, Highhats...I loved this project!
There is one remaing issue I decided to improve upon. The IC seal that goes across the top of the intercooler is just "there", but not secured. I am going to either run a self adhevive T" across the top of the IC to fasten it to or install the outside half of the upper IC shroud that has the lip on it and fasten the seal. I'll look at the upper shroud tonight and decide. Other than that, I think this project is done.
There is one remaing issue I decided to improve upon. The IC seal that goes across the top of the intercooler is just "there", but not secured. I am going to either run a self adhevive T" across the top of the IC to fasten it to or install the outside half of the upper IC shroud that has the lip on it and fasten the seal. I'll look at the upper shroud tonight and decide. Other than that, I think this project is done.
Last edited by John D; 02-11-2008 at 03:06 PM.
#29
02-11-2008, 03:33 PM
John, if you put the frame for the upper shroud on there in hopes you can clip it back in place with the lower, forget about it. The additional thickness of the intercooler (at least on the EVOM ones) causes the clips to be too short. Unless you've already done it - however the tension on the weak frame will distort it I think and break or snap off. IMO prolly better to leave them both off.
#30
02-11-2008, 03:38 PM
OEM Plentum
John,
I am curious about the rear plentum with cover plate pic #23
I would have thought the OEM plentum would be removed completely.
Isn't this the part that separates into a Y and goes to the intake side
of the turbo's for fresh air?
I am curious about the rear plentum with cover plate pic #23
I would have thought the OEM plentum would be removed completely.
Isn't this the part that separates into a Y and goes to the intake side
of the turbo's for fresh air?