Protomotive Air Intake Install
#47
Did you DIY? I'm about to get a similar setup like you. Hopefully, by the time I can find a skillful Porsche mechanic in Taiwan. Would you suggest me to get a pair of B6's IC or others because I would like to retain factory IC air duct?
#49
+ 1million!!!
#50
John, the diameter of the Proto intake is I think .5 inches larger in diameter. So did you cut off the piping on the IC all the way to the body of it and enlarged the diameter by welding inn a larger diameter pipe to match it with the Proto intake?
__________________
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
#51
Mark, Yes, on the out-flowing side I cut the fittings off at the base and made a hole larger than the Proto pipe itself. Then we had to fill in around outside diameter of the Proto aluminum pipe to attach the pipe. We then smoothed the inside. On the in-flowing side, the Proto pipe sleeved up real good and we just welded them in place with some slight dremel porting required prior to the welding. There are no restrictions smaller in diameter than the ID of the Proto pipes.
Then, I blew each IC out throughly with high pressure air multiple times in both directions for about an hour. Next, I ran water through each IC for 8 hours apiece (all night long), dried them and did the high pressure air again for about 1/2 hour each. This got them nice and clean...I was nervous about metal filings, but also realized that these things are made in a factory with metal filings around and you just have to be carefull and clean them throughly prior to installation. I did the water and air treatment before they were installed when they were new, too.
Then, I blew each IC out throughly with high pressure air multiple times in both directions for about an hour. Next, I ran water through each IC for 8 hours apiece (all night long), dried them and did the high pressure air again for about 1/2 hour each. This got them nice and clean...I was nervous about metal filings, but also realized that these things are made in a factory with metal filings around and you just have to be carefull and clean them throughly prior to installation. I did the water and air treatment before they were installed when they were new, too.
Last edited by John D; 02-12-2008 at 01:42 PM.
#52
Yes, it was a DIY winter project. The B6's retain the factory hose fittings, so they are good for that purpose, however, if you are installing this intake system you will have to modify the ends like I did or suffer poor flow by adapting from the OEM hose to the Proto intake pipes...which would negatively affect the air flow from the turbos to the throttle body.
#53
On my car now (after the work I have done), everything is the same diameter. Before I did the work, the Y-Pipe was larger in diameter than the Blown 6 intercooler fittings. So, in order to eliminate the bottleneck or restriction at the intercooler connections, I had to replace the original Blown 6, OEM style (spring clip) fittings with Protomotive aluminum pipe (the same pipe as used on the rest of the protomotive intake). This resulted in the same diameter throughout with no variation.
#54
Yes, it was a DIY winter project. The B6's retain the factory hose fittings, so they are good for that purpose, however, if you are installing this intake system you will have to modify the ends like I did or suffer poor flow by adapting from the OEM hose to the Proto intake pipes...which would negatively affect the air flow from the turbos to the throttle body.
John D thank you very much for your answer!
#55
John, next time around (if there is ever as I am sure you are glad this is getting to the "done" stage) get a Nitrogen bottle and a flow regulator and use that to blow through the intercoolers. Nitrogen is a really inert clean gas and the bottle comes usually at 3600 PSIG, so with the proper regulator you can pressurize the system (safely! ask what the pressure rating are for everything) and hopefully blow all of the "schumtz" out of there.
Really, really, neat stuff here dude.
Really, really, neat stuff here dude.
#56
Shoot! I forgot to add.....I'm not a drag racer but I am wondering; how are you going to fight "heat soak" when you're staging for your runs? Is this any kind of a problem anyway? I know it crosses my mind at Autocross between runs and waiting in line.
#57
Mark, Yes, on the out-flowing side I cut the fittings off at the base and made a hole larger than the Proto pipe itself. Then we had to fill in around outside diameter of the Proto aluminum pipe to attach the pipe. We then smoothed the inside. On the in-flowing side, the Proto pipe sleeved up real good and we just welded them in place with some slight dremel porting required prior to the welding. There are no restrictions smaller in diameter than the ID of the Proto pipes.
Then, I blew each IC out throughly with high pressure air multiple times in both directions for about an hour. Next, I ran water through each IC for 8 hours apiece (all night long), dried them and did the high pressure air again for about 1/2 hour each. This got them nice and clean...I was nervous about metal filings, but also realized that these things are made in a factory with metal filings around and you just have to be carefull and clean them throughly prior to installation. I did the water and air treatment before they were installed when they were new, too.
Then, I blew each IC out throughly with high pressure air multiple times in both directions for about an hour. Next, I ran water through each IC for 8 hours apiece (all night long), dried them and did the high pressure air again for about 1/2 hour each. This got them nice and clean...I was nervous about metal filings, but also realized that these things are made in a factory with metal filings around and you just have to be carefull and clean them throughly prior to installation. I did the water and air treatment before they were installed when they were new, too.
#58
Hey Garey,
Thanks for the tip, I'll remember it, but hopefully I'll never need to carry it out. I am nearing the "done" stage, I think. It's good that we have winters here because this would have been frustrating during our driving season. I thought I could do this on a Sat/Sun and be driving Sunday afternoon...
I don't give the heat soak much thought. I go out a few times per year just for fun and to test the new mods. If I run faster than before, I know the mods worked...picking cooler days helps.
Thanks for the tip, I'll remember it, but hopefully I'll never need to carry it out. I am nearing the "done" stage, I think. It's good that we have winters here because this would have been frustrating during our driving season. I thought I could do this on a Sat/Sun and be driving Sunday afternoon...
I don't give the heat soak much thought. I go out a few times per year just for fun and to test the new mods. If I run faster than before, I know the mods worked...picking cooler days helps.
#59
Fortunately the stock location of the intercoolers helps reduce heat soak as they are well insulated from engine heat. Porsche did a great job in their placement in many regards (very short run of piping, great air intake, etc). If you wanted to be really obsessive you could spray CO2 or NO2 into the IC inlets prior to your run. That would really cool the intake charge, but in John's case it would not be a good idea given that the intake is now in that area. A mist of cold water sprayed into the under side of the ICs could be helpful for his setup. He will have to do some comparison runs and let us know, right John?
#60
A mist of cold water sprayed into the under side of the ICs could be helpful for his setup. He will have to do some comparison runs and let us know, right John?