Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?
#17
I'm not sure I understand. I never modified any switch. I noticed you sent me a PM. I'll be responding shortly.
#18
Here is a reference pic for the end product... I apologize for the car being FILTHY, very bad weather the last few days... and yes i'm getting new pedals and rest plate
#20
Thanks for the description, and good luck with it. I'd be wary doing this because the clutch is a wear item. That means that someday, no matter how good it is, you'll have to replace it. And as we know by now, there is no consistency to the clutch grab point between different makes of clutch, or even with the same clutch. Next time a clutch goes in the car could be completely undrivable.
#21
Thanks for the description, and good luck with it. I'd be wary doing this because the clutch is a wear item. That means that someday, no matter how good it is, you'll have to replace it. And as we know by now, there is no consistency to the clutch grab point between different makes of clutch, or even with the same clutch. Next time a clutch goes in the car could be completely undrivable.
#22
I ordered a new OEM clutch master cyclinder. I am going to modify the new one to perfection and then switch it out. I am going to cut the actuator and weld an adjustable end to it so I can adjust the pedal height to best fit my needs.
I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
#23
No, I believe it is the pedal side of the clutch master cyclinder. I have also herd that you can move the entire clutch master cyclinder away from the clutch pedal, thus lowering the clutch pedal.
#25
I ordered a new OEM clutch master cyclinder. I am going to modify the new one to perfection and then switch it out. I am going to cut the actuator and weld an adjustable end to it so I can adjust the pedal height to best fit my needs.
I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
At the 2007 Grand Prix of Houston there was a local club that had scheduled time on the course. A well prepared 996 track car was coming in hot to an apex an the pedal went straight to the floor with no warning. He pulled it sideways into the concrete barrier and avoided a head on collision. I looked in the trunk when it was in the pits and the plastic brake fluid resevoir had popped out of the MC. There are 2 barbed ports on the plastic resevoir and 2 o-rings. It appears that the resevoir worked itself out of the MC despite the barbs and o-rings. His mechanic did the car prep prior to the race, including flushing the hydraulics. Nothing out of the ordinary according to the mechanic. The trunk was stripped of everything so the plastic paneling that normally surrounds the resevoir was not there. I wondered if that panel offers lateral support to the top heavy resevoir, but a Porsche tech I know says those resevoirs are really hard to pull out of the MC and he could not see it popping out on its own from any kind of driving G-forces. Maybe it popped out after impact. No way to know what exactly happened, but it made me pretty conscious of how little is holding that sucker in. What is my point? Just make sure that resevoir is secure if you R/R it.
#26
Great story, but not for that poor sole. I will make sure it is on correctly.
I ordered it from Prosche. Part number 996 423 17152. the parts guy at NB Porsche is a great guy and always gives me a deep discount. I think the item is $190.00
I ordered it from Prosche. Part number 996 423 17152. the parts guy at NB Porsche is a great guy and always gives me a deep discount. I think the item is $190.00
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