996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?

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  #16  
Old 03-05-2008, 09:29 PM
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My clutch peddle feels the same way. Too high and my foot is floating. How did you modify the other clutch switch that actuates when the clutch is in its resting position?
 
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by roadsterdoc
Thanks for the diagram. If it is a plastic shaft that you broke off, how did you weld a metal one back in its place?

Also, if the diagram is accurate, the oem link has a turnbuckle at the end that is attached to the pedal. If so, is there room to adjust it?
Hey roadster, I should have been a little more specific. That diagram is from a random one I found from google just movied it around... the turnbuckle does not actually exist... or else you could just adjust it. If/when you pull out the assembly you will see that the green plastic is mounted at one point with a short medal shaft. I removed the medal shaft. It doesn't really matter at what point you shorten the shaft as long as you get the final piece to be exactly one full hole inward. I wish I would have taken pictures and have made it easier for everyone but at the moment I was just trying to get it to work so I never took pictures of anything. If u disassemble and find the clutch pedal assembly through the front "trunk" you will know exactly what I am talking about. Ask any mechanic really and they will know exactly how to make this modification, its just a simple mod really but a little hard to explain.
Originally Posted by robertp
My clutch peddle feels the same way. Too high and my foot is floating. How did you modify the other clutch switch that actuates when the clutch is in its resting position?
I'm not sure I understand. I never modified any switch. I noticed you sent me a PM. I'll be responding shortly.
 
  #18  
Old 03-05-2008, 10:06 PM
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Here is a reference pic for the end product... I apologize for the car being FILTHY, very bad weather the last few days... and yes i'm getting new pedals and rest plate


 
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Old 03-06-2008, 12:35 PM
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Thanks for the explanation. To verify, the section you modified is on the other side of the firewall (in the trunk), not on the pedal side.
 
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Old 03-06-2008, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the description, and good luck with it. I'd be wary doing this because the clutch is a wear item. That means that someday, no matter how good it is, you'll have to replace it. And as we know by now, there is no consistency to the clutch grab point between different makes of clutch, or even with the same clutch. Next time a clutch goes in the car could be completely undrivable.
 
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by roadsterdoc
Thanks for the explanation. To verify, the section you modified is on the other side of the firewall (in the trunk), not on the pedal side.
Yessir, I hope the explanation helped.
Originally Posted by jimmer23
Thanks for the description, and good luck with it. I'd be wary doing this because the clutch is a wear item. That means that someday, no matter how good it is, you'll have to replace it. And as we know by now, there is no consistency to the clutch grab point between different makes of clutch, or even with the same clutch. Next time a clutch goes in the car could be completely undrivable.
Yes you are absolutely right about that, if I do change my clutch again (different brand and model) chances are that it will not engage the same and my pedal might become useless but the whole concept of this is to cut the projectile length. If the time comes for me to have to change it, no big deal, its a very easy modification.
 
  #22  
Old 03-06-2008, 04:04 PM
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I ordered a new OEM clutch master cyclinder. I am going to modify the new one to perfection and then switch it out. I am going to cut the actuator and weld an adjustable end to it so I can adjust the pedal height to best fit my needs.

I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
 
  #23  
Old 03-06-2008, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by roadsterdoc
Thanks for the explanation. To verify, the section you modified is on the other side of the firewall (in the trunk), not on the pedal side.
No, I believe it is the pedal side of the clutch master cyclinder. I have also herd that you can move the entire clutch master cyclinder away from the clutch pedal, thus lowering the clutch pedal.
 
  #24  
Old 03-06-2008, 04:24 PM
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^ didn't read it right (oops), yes rob ur right
 
  #25  
Old 03-06-2008, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by robertp
I ordered a new OEM clutch master cyclinder. I am going to modify the new one to perfection and then switch it out. I am going to cut the actuator and weld an adjustable end to it so I can adjust the pedal height to best fit my needs.

I will have my old one so if I do get another clutch , I have a stock clutch master cylinder. They run $150.00
Wow, that's a cheap price for any car, esp a Porsche. Do you know if it includes the resevoir? If not, I want to tell you a little story that resulted in a brake failure and a totalled 996 (no injuries).

At the 2007 Grand Prix of Houston there was a local club that had scheduled time on the course. A well prepared 996 track car was coming in hot to an apex an the pedal went straight to the floor with no warning. He pulled it sideways into the concrete barrier and avoided a head on collision. I looked in the trunk when it was in the pits and the plastic brake fluid resevoir had popped out of the MC. There are 2 barbed ports on the plastic resevoir and 2 o-rings. It appears that the resevoir worked itself out of the MC despite the barbs and o-rings. His mechanic did the car prep prior to the race, including flushing the hydraulics. Nothing out of the ordinary according to the mechanic. The trunk was stripped of everything so the plastic paneling that normally surrounds the resevoir was not there. I wondered if that panel offers lateral support to the top heavy resevoir, but a Porsche tech I know says those resevoirs are really hard to pull out of the MC and he could not see it popping out on its own from any kind of driving G-forces. Maybe it popped out after impact. No way to know what exactly happened, but it made me pretty conscious of how little is holding that sucker in. What is my point? Just make sure that resevoir is secure if you R/R it.
 
  #26  
Old 03-06-2008, 05:19 PM
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Great story, but not for that poor sole. I will make sure it is on correctly.

I ordered it from Prosche. Part number 996 423 17152. the parts guy at NB Porsche is a great guy and always gives me a deep discount. I think the item is $190.00
 
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