Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?
#1
Clutch Stop - Anyone made one? How to trick clutch ignition switch?
I upgraded my clutch recently and now the clutch is VERY high, its probably in the top inch of the clutch pedal. Its a little annoying to just press the clutch such a small amount and not feel a slight follow through so I would just make a clutch stop. Very easy to make and cheap. Using a solid piece of rubber cut with the right amount of thickness you basically attach it to floor area of the clutch. Simple enough, making it look right in the car is at your own concession. Although I can make that, when I start up the car I won't be able to activate the clutch switch to actually turn the engine on.
So my question is how do I trick the clutch switch? Should I leave it pressed all the time? I'm not sure that's a good idea. So what solution could someone give me on that? I'd appreciate any help.
So my question is how do I trick the clutch switch? Should I leave it pressed all the time? I'm not sure that's a good idea. So what solution could someone give me on that? I'd appreciate any help.
#2
You can bypass the clutch switch by simply unplugging it and connecting a piece of wire between the two connectors to complete the circuit. Never leave your car parked in gear if you do that or else you will have issues down the road leading to front bumper damage.
Why is your pedal like this in the first place? Just because you upgraded does not mean your pedal should be doing what you have described. The first thing I would do is re-bleed the whole system at the dealer. I can not remember if the slave cylinder needs to be bleed with the scan tool or not. I know with brakes, to do it to Porsche’s spec it isn’t cut and dry.
Why is your pedal like this in the first place? Just because you upgraded does not mean your pedal should be doing what you have described. The first thing I would do is re-bleed the whole system at the dealer. I can not remember if the slave cylinder needs to be bleed with the scan tool or not. I know with brakes, to do it to Porsche’s spec it isn’t cut and dry.
#3
A lot of aftermarket clutch kits are like this. Just something you have to live with. I thought about making a stop as well, but eventually got used to it.
Euro-spec cars do not have the clutch switch, maybe check out the wiring diagram to see how it's different so you can do the job cleanly.
Euro-spec cars do not have the clutch switch, maybe check out the wiring diagram to see how it's different so you can do the job cleanly.
#4
Thanks for the info gentleman.
I was trying to avoid taking the switch out altogether or keeping it pressed because of safety... I'm sure if its not me it will be someone else who wants to start my car up or something and forget. I don't think its safe.
I will try re-bleeding but I'm not sure its going to do a whole lot.
I know most kits are like this, I can probably live with it but I'd prefer to feel a little more comfortable. I'm gonna check out the diagrams and see what I find, hopefully I can stick some kind of stop in soon.
I was trying to avoid taking the switch out altogether or keeping it pressed because of safety... I'm sure if its not me it will be someone else who wants to start my car up or something and forget. I don't think its safe.
I will try re-bleeding but I'm not sure its going to do a whole lot.
I know most kits are like this, I can probably live with it but I'd prefer to feel a little more comfortable. I'm gonna check out the diagrams and see what I find, hopefully I can stick some kind of stop in soon.
#7
So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
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#8
So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
#9
So in my quest to make a clutch stop I ended up doing something a little more extreme but better functioning. The clutch pedal has a piece that actually connects to the clutch line that pulls it as your press the pedal right? So I modified that piece. The OEM one has the connection piece in a very tough green plastic. I cut it and welded a new piece that was about 1/2" shorter in metal. It works better, and it brought the clutch petal WAY down. Its a little bit less than half its total OEM travel length. If u look at my pedals the clutch is way further down then the brake. Some might say its extreme but the driving experience is much better now with the high engaging clutch. Now I didn't have to mess with the clutch switch that turns on the engine since it works exactly as before.
#12
Hey John, are you referring to the " Removing the spring trick"?
#13
No, he means replacing the 996TT slave with the GT2 non-assisted slave. Not a simple thing to do, but certainly doable by any competent mechanic. Tranny has to come out. Various parts are involved. There are multiple threads about it. Before you go for such a conversion I recommend driving a GT2 and see if you like the feel.
#14
here is a quick diagram that can maybe explain this a little clearer. if u need a better explanation i can try and write it for u but its pretty straightforward. u need to fabricate a piece that will make the link shorter for the clutch to be lower.
AFTER: the pedal will feel better because u will be able to make a clean follow through to the floor. When having an aftermarket performance clutch the engagement is very tight (within a cm) and very high making ur foot hang fully in the air with no sense of support. The actual engagement of the clutch has not really changed but its WAY easier to gauge the engagement of it making for a more pleasurable drive since u can predict and measure the engagement much easier. I would probably not make this modification if I had a stock clutch.
AFTER: the pedal will feel better because u will be able to make a clean follow through to the floor. When having an aftermarket performance clutch the engagement is very tight (within a cm) and very high making ur foot hang fully in the air with no sense of support. The actual engagement of the clutch has not really changed but its WAY easier to gauge the engagement of it making for a more pleasurable drive since u can predict and measure the engagement much easier. I would probably not make this modification if I had a stock clutch.
#15
Thanks for the diagram. If it is a plastic shaft that you broke off, how did you weld a metal one back in its place?
Also, if the diagram is accurate, the oem link has a turnbuckle at the end that is attached to the pedal. If so, is there room to adjust it?
Also, if the diagram is accurate, the oem link has a turnbuckle at the end that is attached to the pedal. If so, is there room to adjust it?