When I first ran my datalogs I saw 92%. That's at 1.2bar.

I don't know if the pump or injectors were upgraded, but I doubt they were.

I have my car right now at a GIAC tuner shop... The head technician stated flat out that he's installed the same clutch on 600BHP cars the have been dynoed. Robb said flat out that my car is making WAY OVER 650 CRANK HP... The guy does this stuff for a living, and does NOT sell a UMW tune...

Think what you will, this car is making B-I-G power.

Mike

 

This is a great thread for someone, such as myself, who's thinking about getting a 996 TT and boost (no pun intended) it's power. Mikelly, are you using the original stock internals or did you do a rebuild?

 

I will be putting my UMW 16/24 car on the dyno either tommorrow or Monday for what it's worth

Christian

 

No rebuild. I bought this car with 9100 miles on it, and it now has over 17K on it... Car was dropped off at Lufteknic in Richmond Va. today. I believe we'll be going with a much less streetable clutch setup, unless I can get a better solution...

Mike

 

Mike, do the hydraulic assist delete for your clutch, and then it will be good to go!!! My friends was on/off when he did new clutch/lwfw setup, then he did the hydraulic assist delete and it was easy to modulate with the extra feel

 

I'd be curoious what your UMW 16/24 would do on the dyno ... I have had the UMW 16/24 ZC for a while now ... and I'm curious what the numbers would be ...

 

^I just talked to my pals and they are closed tommorrow for the holiday, it will be Monday or Tuesday at the latest

Christian

 

This is an injector duty cycle log of a 600bhp car running stock injectors and a 5 bar. This car was tuned to 12.0-12.2 a/f flat from ~3000-redline.

If your only seeing 92% duty your either running lean at 640-650 crank or making slightly lower then you expect. Get the car to a dyno see where you are both power and a/f wise.

 

When I get the clutch issue resolved, I'll do a little more datalogging. If I'm running closer to the edge, I'll have my tune dialed back... Quite honestly, Making 650BHP or making 600BHP means ZERO to me... What I care about, the ONLY thing I care about is reliability and LAP TIMES.

If I real off a 550-560WHP dyno, all the 60-130 and mile guys will come out to hammer it... So why bother? The car is extremely fast and has killed a new clutch that is the popular clutch in all the 600 and 640 kits. So at the end of the day, all that matters to me is that its dead nuts reliable, and that it's lapping everyone in my group. At this point, I ran out of clutch. Next time, It'll be driver's talent.

Mike

 

Martin, What I was told is that a Sintered (sp) clutch can't be slipped. It'll kill it. This isn't the GT2/GT3 organic setup thats in most kits.

Mike

 

Guys,

KPG dynoed this kit at 512 AWHP on an AWD Mustang dyno with a mix of pump and race fuel...I am not sure of the boost, but I would guess a little over 1.2 bar. He had one of, if not the strongest running UMW K16/24 ZC set-ups to date based on his extensive testing results. I think your power is most likely similar to KPG's..

To put things in perspective, my Proto 700 car with fuel system is supposed to make approx. 560 AWHP on pump fuel at 1.1 bar and 590 AWHP on race fuel at 1.3 bar. In the 1/4 mile, using race fuel, but only 1.24 bar, I ran 11 seconds flat at 133 MPH. With my K16/24's on race fuel at 1.28 bar, I ran 11.5 @ 127 (almost identical to KPG). The 560 AWHP Proto 700 car feels like a different world than the K16/24 car I previously enjoyed. By using my real life experience and my HP understanding of where each of these kits is supposed to come in...I think 540-560 AWHP and 650 HP estimates for the K16/24 are a little too optimistic. Also, Speed Gallery told me "575, maybe 600 HP" for the K16/24 hybrids with exhaust, ported headers and intake. If you find you are in fact making 650HP, then you have done very well because a lot of us have spent a lot more money to get there. A proto 700 is only 700HP at 1.3 bar with race fuel and probably closer to 670 on pump and IMHO, it accelerates in a much more agressive manner than a 16/24 car, even at 1.1 bar. I am not saying that I am right, only trying to show why I think KPG's dyno is probably very accurate for a 16/24 car...

 

John, my point in posting was to give my perspective on the K16/K24. As I stated earlier, I'm very impressed with what's being done with the K1616g setups, But wanted to again restate that the drivability on the K16/K24, when setup properly, is simply amazing.

I'll be interested in seeing further reviews as the tuners continue to develop their products.

Mike

 

I agree. I don't think the K16/24s are obsolete. When I was shopping for turbos, I went out looking for a K16/24. My turbo builder was actually the one who talked me out of it and into the K16/16g. He basically said that they are similar setups, but the 16g wheel is a bit more efficient and runs cooler. They should make similar power. What I really believe is the difference with my setup is EPL. Tony's custom tune is amazing. It is perfectly dialed in to my car and runs very conservatively (boost, AFR, injector, etc.) but makes great power. I've said it before and I'll say it again, there's no substitute for a custom tune.

 

Christian, look forward to your numbers....I'll be looking to Kevin (UMW) for a package sometime soon (not sure which one).

 

Mike,

I agree with you and can understand why you would like your new set-up. I loved my K16/24 hybrids, they were wonderful performers. There are a lot of nice options available these days, at each level and I think most users would be very happy with whatever package they select. The cost of entry at many levels has dropped a bit, too.