Add 30 hp on a K24 kit?
#46
DYNOJET
Mods:
ECU (Orton)
Straight Pipes (AWE)
K24's
DV's (forge)
93 Octane
524.7 max whp
523.8 whp @ 6400 rpm & 497.8 wtq @ 4600 rpm
(torque a hp curves crossing @ 5250)
(AF ratio 14.0 idle down to 11.7/11.8)
Made 475 wheel tq @ 3900 rpm so turbos are kicking strong really early.
I'm too lazy to scan, but I'm happy with the results. No power mods needed. Going with IC's though. I'd bet it would be in the 530+ whp range with the PSI exhaust back on.
Mods:
ECU (Orton)
Straight Pipes (AWE)
K24's
DV's (forge)
93 Octane
524.7 max whp
523.8 whp @ 6400 rpm & 497.8 wtq @ 4600 rpm
(torque a hp curves crossing @ 5250)
(AF ratio 14.0 idle down to 11.7/11.8)
Made 475 wheel tq @ 3900 rpm so turbos are kicking strong really early.
I'm too lazy to scan, but I'm happy with the results. No power mods needed. Going with IC's though. I'd bet it would be in the 530+ whp range with the PSI exhaust back on.
does the torque/hp curve give you a better idea of the optimum time to upshift?
#47
If I do the RWD conversion I'll be able to go up to 547 whp. I changed my mind on that My actual limit is 519 whp for the weight I plan to run, but I think if I were to dyno it in AWD it may read a tad lower putting me right in line with my hp limit which is 519 whp in AWD.
So that means I cant go with an intake or it'll put me over the limit.
So that means I cant go with an intake or it'll put me over the limit.
#48
May need a shift light @ about 6400-6500 to give me reaction time.
#50
May have been some clutch slippage on the low end, it slipped on me when I first stepped on it after getting the DV's in there. That or the straight pipes, which is why I say it would be plain nasty if I put the PSI exhaust back on.
#52
You know what, I know what that is. IT'S PSM. He turned the car off to search for the tach wire, and the first run was done with it off, but he probably didnt turn it back off, so the PSM likely kicked in I'd bet.
I dont know how much that would affect the torque but it seems like PSM is kicking in there.
I dont know how much that would affect the torque but it seems like PSM is kicking in there.
#53
BTW, EVO overnighted a set of "improved" wastegates, although I only saw a slight difference in the rod extensions. She is back to pulling 1.1 bar with 1.2 spikes. I know my dilemma made you think twice about this modification, but they really do help the boost come on quicker, hold it steadier and longer. I can honestly say that I see 1.1 bar at around 3500 to 3700 rpms and it spikes to 1.2 at 5000 to redline in 3rd gear and up. Give it some thought, I would never point you in the wrong direction.
Last edited by 9Eleven; 04-25-2008 at 07:07 PM.
#54
Dez, If you do need a clutch, I can highly recommend the setup clutchmasters is offering. I'm using the GT3RS sprung full clutch disc (no pucks) cluch disc, the 999 PP with the fulcrum adjustment. And I'm running the LWFW. It's holding my K16/24 setup just fine and the next trip to VIR I'll be running some 100Octane race gas and the race gas file. I also hope to get some dyno numbers here in the near future.
Mike
Mike
#56
Sure did... I got the car back a week ago, and it drives like stock and the car is making full power everywhere. This clutch is the real deal and drivers LIKE STOCK!
We're extimating I'm making somewhere north of 640BHP on 93 Octane, and it's putting all the power to the ground.
Mike
We're extimating I'm making somewhere north of 640BHP on 93 Octane, and it's putting all the power to the ground.
Mike
#57
That's the same torque my car is producing and I have the same flash, with DV's and a Europipe stage II. I didn't have my upgraded wastegates or this new clutch when she was put on the dyno that day. You've got 15 or so more hp, but again, I ran mine on a dynojet on a 95 degree plus day. My AFR's were right at 12.1, 12.2.; your dyno sheet looks about right to me.
BTW, EVO overnighted a set of "improved" wastegates, although I only saw a slight difference in the rod extensions. She is back to pulling 1.1 bar with 1.2 spikes. I know my dilemma made you think twice about this modification, but they really do help the boost come on quicker, hold it steadier and longer. I can honestly say that I see 1.1 bar at around 3500 to 3700 rpms and it spikes to 1.2 at 5000 to redline in 3rd gear and up. Give it some thought, I would never point you in the wrong direction.
BTW, EVO overnighted a set of "improved" wastegates, although I only saw a slight difference in the rod extensions. She is back to pulling 1.1 bar with 1.2 spikes. I know my dilemma made you think twice about this modification, but they really do help the boost come on quicker, hold it steadier and longer. I can honestly say that I see 1.1 bar at around 3500 to 3700 rpms and it spikes to 1.2 at 5000 to redline in 3rd gear and up. Give it some thought, I would never point you in the wrong direction.
Your torque curve looks smoother than mine which says it's either clutch or PSM acting up there. I havent been having much problem from the clutch though, just that one time I punched it after doing the DV's so I'm going to bet on PSM not being happy.
Let's see how long your updated rods last then I'll revisit it. I know Al abondoned to externals because of the rod problems.
#58
Did you get the wastegate springs? That's what makes the real fat torque curve come in. You sooo feel the wastegate upgrade! The stock wastegate springs make the wastegates just flap under exhaust pressure making for a very limp buildup.
Look at my dyno below. Almost the same (no TQ graph due to no iugnition pickup) as yours but more HP mid range means more TQ.
80 degree day, 91 octane gas and flash, 3 successive runs with almost no (3 min idle cooldown) and pretty weak fans.
Look at my dyno below. Almost the same (no TQ graph due to no iugnition pickup) as yours but more HP mid range means more TQ.
80 degree day, 91 octane gas and flash, 3 successive runs with almost no (3 min idle cooldown) and pretty weak fans.
Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 04-26-2008 at 01:45 PM.
#59
+1... I'm betting that ANY car that hasn't had upgraded wastegates, along with a tune, needs them... If you're running 1.2bar, upgrade those springs...
You think the DVs made a difference, you ain't felt nothing yet.
Mike
You think the DVs made a difference, you ain't felt nothing yet.
Mike
Did you get the wastegate springs? That's what makes the real fat torque curve come in. You sooo feel the wastegate upgrade! The stock wastegate springs make the wastegates just flap under exhaust pressure making for a very limp buildup.
Look at my dyno below. Almost the same (no TQ graph due to no iugnition pickup) as yours but more HP mid range means more TQ.
80 degree day, 91 octane gas and flash, 3 successive runs with almost no (3 min idle cooldown) and pretty weak fans.
Look at my dyno below. Almost the same (no TQ graph due to no iugnition pickup) as yours but more HP mid range means more TQ.
80 degree day, 91 octane gas and flash, 3 successive runs with almost no (3 min idle cooldown) and pretty weak fans.
#60
2 Things about the wastegate springs.
#1 I was under the assumption that you cant go past .7 bar on the stock springs, so does that not mean mine are modded already?
#2 There is absolutely ZERO chance I upgrade if I have to deal with broken actuator rods. What's the most dependable solution that will not break over and over again.
I'm questioning if I even really need more power down low (torque). My power and torque curves are more NA like and it seems to me that I'll like it better this way. Smoother throttle buildup and it forces me to be a better driver by keeping the car in the higher rev ranges through cornering speed.
It's and inexpensive mod so I'll consider it, but at this point I dont really need for any quicker application of boost, I'm already wondering how this newly recovered power will translate on the track. So it's not so simple.
#1 I was under the assumption that you cant go past .7 bar on the stock springs, so does that not mean mine are modded already?
#2 There is absolutely ZERO chance I upgrade if I have to deal with broken actuator rods. What's the most dependable solution that will not break over and over again.
I'm questioning if I even really need more power down low (torque). My power and torque curves are more NA like and it seems to me that I'll like it better this way. Smoother throttle buildup and it forces me to be a better driver by keeping the car in the higher rev ranges through cornering speed.
It's and inexpensive mod so I'll consider it, but at this point I dont really need for any quicker application of boost, I'm already wondering how this newly recovered power will translate on the track. So it's not so simple.