996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

996 Turbo Brake Information - DIY and Sorting truth from Fiction!

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  #46  
Old 07-09-2008, 04:00 PM
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Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:20 PM.
  #47  
Old 07-09-2008, 06:50 PM
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Mike,

I presume you made 2 shims per side to avoid the difficulty of getting precise hole alignment with using a single shim per side?
 
  #48  
Old 07-09-2008, 06:55 PM
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Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:20 PM.
  #49  
Old 07-09-2008, 07:27 PM
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Mike,

Actually it could be done with something as simple as a drill press. I have a transfer punch set and with the proper size punch, it fits perfectly into the hole for the caliper bolt. If you first make the shim strip, then secure it to the caliper with a clamp of some type and place it on a hard surface, you can accurately center punch both holes. After that just take it to a drill press and start small and progress with increasing size bits until you get the exact hole size needed. All you guys sitting on the fence out there get a piece of 6061-T6 flat stock and go to it.

You can probably get a punch set from Grizzly that will do all you need for very little cash outlay.
 
  #50  
Old 07-17-2008, 12:05 PM
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super great write-up....thank u
 
  #51  
Old 07-17-2008, 01:05 PM
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Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:20 PM.
  #52  
Old 07-21-2008, 12:51 PM
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Do you guys remove the dust shield for better cooling?
 
  #53  
Old 07-21-2008, 07:16 PM
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Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:20 PM.
  #54  
Old 07-22-2008, 04:33 AM
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Thumbs up

Thank you for sharing those great info!
 
  #55  
Old 07-22-2008, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikelly
Al, did you get yours done? I'd like to see pics of what you came up with...

Mike
Mike,
I made 2 shims last weekend but don't have the rotors and bolts yet. The C to C distance came out perfect even making the holes a little smaller than the ones in the actual caliper. Do you want a pic of the shim or the completed installation? Not sure I can get a camera in behind the rotor/caliper assembly to get a good shot. Once I get a pic, not sure I can upload it. I remember having trouble once before.
 
  #56  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Al Norton
Mike,

Actually it could be done with something as simple as a drill press. I have a transfer punch set and with the proper size punch, it fits perfectly into the hole for the caliper bolt. If you first make the shim strip, then secure it to the caliper with a clamp of some type and place it on a hard surface, you can accurately center punch both holes. After that just take it to a drill press and start small and progress with increasing size bits until you get the exact hole size needed. All you guys sitting on the fence out there get a piece of 6061-T6 flat stock and go to it.

You can probably get a punch set from Grizzly that will do all you need for very little cash outlay.
Color me wrong. When I got the new rotors on and the calipers in place, the pads were slightly outside the rim of the rotor. This required a 0.050 cut to bring them even with the outer edge.

I took some mediocre pictures but don't know how to post them. Mike has agreed to put them up for me later.
 
  #57  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:47 PM
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Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:21 PM.
  #58  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikelly
Al, The pics I posted above show the pad wear I had running my 997TT rotor with the 996TT caliper and no issue with pad overlapping the edge of the rotor.

Mike
Good to know. That once again makes it easy to do with a drill press and transfer punches. I really made the 0.050 cut to get the extra 2 lbs/ft of torque.
 
  #59  
Old 07-27-2008, 02:05 PM
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  #60  
Old 07-28-2008, 04:10 AM
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Mike
 

Last edited by Mikelly; 03-26-2010 at 03:21 PM.


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