996 Turbo Brake Information - DIY and Sorting truth from Fiction!
#79
09-01-2008, 02:28 PM
i have a 99 996 C2 narrow body coupe with 18" carrera 5 spoke wheels that show too little caliper, too small rotors. To sum up : too much daylight. NOT a performance upgrade issue, straight aesthetics
there are several sets of Big reds off 996tt, for sale in nice condition,
Truth from Fiction:
How many parts other than pads, calipers and rotors do i need to change to make this fit and work?
thanks
bob
there are several sets of Big reds off 996tt, for sale in nice condition,
Truth from Fiction:
How many parts other than pads, calipers and rotors do i need to change to make this fit and work?
thanks
bob
#81
09-02-2008, 02:27 AM
Call Paul at Protosport:
He's working on a front 14" setup using the stock calipers (relocator bracket) with his slotted front rotors. He's in final stages now and may be ready to ship... His rotors are a bit more but not horribly more than a stock setup and should be well worth it for a lot of guys who want to retain the stock calipers!
Protosport Incorporated
17 E Garden Pl
Pompton Plains, NJ 07444
Phone: (973) 839-5353
#82
09-02-2008, 11:10 AM
cheers bud, ill contact him.
dub.
dub.
Call Paul at Protosport:
He's working on a front 14" setup using the stock calipers (relocator bracket) with his slotted front rotors. He's in final stages now and may be ready to ship... His rotors are a bit more but not horribly more than a stock setup and should be well worth it for a lot of guys who want to retain the stock calipers!
Protosport Incorporated
17 E Garden Pl
Pompton Plains, NJ 07444
Phone: (973) 839-5353
He's working on a front 14" setup using the stock calipers (relocator bracket) with his slotted front rotors. He's in final stages now and may be ready to ship... His rotors are a bit more but not horribly more than a stock setup and should be well worth it for a lot of guys who want to retain the stock calipers!
Protosport Incorporated
17 E Garden Pl
Pompton Plains, NJ 07444
Phone: (973) 839-5353
#85
09-24-2008, 06:51 AM
I am in the process of installing the Brembo GT brakes on the rear of my car and discovered that there is a barrel in the aluminum hat that accepts my e-brake pads. Nice surprise. I was under the impression that the after-market 2-piece rotors wouldn't allow a functional e-brake.
#87
09-25-2008, 02:07 PM
Hello from a Rennlist refugee....
From the "Discovering It The Hard Way" file:
Tried EBC pads on the front of the 996TT with GT3 front brakes...disaster.
Massive rotor deposits which were nearly impossible to remove, sandpaper barely took it off.
Lesson:
Pagid RS29 brake pads from Craig at www.rennstore.com
From the "Discovering It The Hard Way" file:
Tried EBC pads on the front of the 996TT with GT3 front brakes...disaster.
Massive rotor deposits which were nearly impossible to remove, sandpaper barely took it off.
Lesson:
Pagid RS29 brake pads from Craig at www.rennstore.com
#89
09-25-2008, 03:01 PM
Yellow EBC - junque.
Go with Pagid Yellows, and if you want a knowledgeable guy to talk with about the differences in compounds, call Craig (sp?) We spoke for over 1/2 hour.
425-765-1090
www.Rennstore.com
Go with Pagid Yellows, and if you want a knowledgeable guy to talk with about the differences in compounds, call Craig (sp?) We spoke for over 1/2 hour.
425-765-1090
www.Rennstore.com
#90
09-30-2008, 07:38 PM
This is a real easy DIY...
Remove the "wheel" from the specific corner after jacking the wheel up and placing a jack stand under the corner. There is a clip holding the center pin in the caliper...Pull that pin out of its location at the inside of the pin/caliper. Press the spring clip that holds the pads in place on the upper and lower ends of the center, and slide the large pin out. If you can't get it to slide out, use a center punch or philllips screw driver to help slide it inward towards the wheel well... Once you remove it, I recommend removing the pads and then break the two caliper bolts holding the caliper onto the upright. They are allen head bolts and I don't remember the size.
Have a coathanger, or zip ties, or tie wire handy to support the caliiper while it isn't bolted up... There are two phillips head screws in the face of the rotor hat... Use a number 1 screw driver and unscrew them and tap on the rotor with a rubber mallet... Work it loose and remove it... IF doing the rear rotor RELEASE THE EBRAKE!!! Rotor won't come off if the E-brake is engaged.
Make sure you put the proper rotor on the proper side...
Make sure to use the appropriate tools to spread the caliper piston cups without moving one side over the other... You can use C clamps, or caliper tools, or large channel locks, but make sure both sides, all cups compress at an even rate so you don't pop one out. Inspect all hardware and replace as needed.
If I'm just doing a track pad swap and the caliper cups aren't exposed, what I like to do is replace the caliper onto the upright and then use a small pry bar to move one side enough to slide the new pad into one side of the caliper... Once you get that pad in place, work the other side into the caliper as you depress the piston cups, one at a time wedging the pad into place...
Torque the bolts for the caliper to spec and replace all the hardware for the pads...
I didn't make comment about the pad sensors as I don't have them on my pads... But you do have to remove them before you can remove the pads...
Mike
Remove the "wheel" from the specific corner after jacking the wheel up and placing a jack stand under the corner. There is a clip holding the center pin in the caliper...Pull that pin out of its location at the inside of the pin/caliper. Press the spring clip that holds the pads in place on the upper and lower ends of the center, and slide the large pin out. If you can't get it to slide out, use a center punch or philllips screw driver to help slide it inward towards the wheel well... Once you remove it, I recommend removing the pads and then break the two caliper bolts holding the caliper onto the upright. They are allen head bolts and I don't remember the size.
Have a coathanger, or zip ties, or tie wire handy to support the caliiper while it isn't bolted up... There are two phillips head screws in the face of the rotor hat... Use a number 1 screw driver and unscrew them and tap on the rotor with a rubber mallet... Work it loose and remove it... IF doing the rear rotor RELEASE THE EBRAKE!!! Rotor won't come off if the E-brake is engaged.
Make sure you put the proper rotor on the proper side...
Make sure to use the appropriate tools to spread the caliper piston cups without moving one side over the other... You can use C clamps, or caliper tools, or large channel locks, but make sure both sides, all cups compress at an even rate so you don't pop one out. Inspect all hardware and replace as needed.
If I'm just doing a track pad swap and the caliper cups aren't exposed, what I like to do is replace the caliper onto the upright and then use a small pry bar to move one side enough to slide the new pad into one side of the caliper... Once you get that pad in place, work the other side into the caliper as you depress the piston cups, one at a time wedging the pad into place...
Torque the bolts for the caliper to spec and replace all the hardware for the pads...
I didn't make comment about the pad sensors as I don't have them on my pads... But you do have to remove them before you can remove the pads...
Mike
Last edited by dtmarsh; 09-30-2008 at 07:39 PM. Reason: edit