So much like everyone else who gets the UMW software treatment, I had clutch issues immediately upon upgrading from my Crapsolute, er' UPsolote software, to the UMW software, wastegate springs and 5Bar FPR. So, being the cheap sonofa***** I am, I bought a Flywheel from a member here, and then started shopping for an installer for a "clutch" kit. The guys I ended up with are GIAC tuners and had their own products to sell and install. They had zero experience with the UMW product line and were extremely sceptical that my tune was producing the power that it made. I discussed a couple of options with them and the only thing I stressed was "I want this clutch to be very streetable". Beyond that, I didn't want to tell them how to do their job, so I took my used flywheel and stuck it on the board forsale (Still have it).

Off they went and installed pretty much a GT2 PP and GT3RS regular organic clutch disk, the sprung hub unit, along with a new 964RS LWFW. I pick the car up, take it to the track the following week, and low and behold the thing slips like mad. Tom Kerr rode in my car for two sessions and found out first hand that the clutch was pretty much worthless... So I drove the weekend around the problem.

Following getting the car back, I didn't even unload it from the trailer... I took it straight back to the shop... We discussed options and the shop next installed an 8 puck "ceramic" (really COPPER) clutch disc and the 999 MotorsportPP... On a 10 minute test drive the tech found that the clutch slipped like crazy at full boost (1.2 Bar) in 3rd and 6th.

Finally I threw in the towel and asked the shop to contact UMW, which they finally did. What I ended up with is the 996GT3 RS non-puck, full faced disc with Kevlar (Althought I could have gone the fibertuff upgrade had I spoken with Kevin two days sooner) and the Sachs 999 PP with relocated fulcrum points.

The shop took care of me on the bill for the first clutch install, refunded all the parts and labor, and did not charge me for the second install, and only charged me for the parts and materials/labor on the third install. There was no haggling, I simply showed up and was presented a bill and was asked if that was OK... Very pleasent and what I was expecting.

Now, I've had this clutch in the car for over 300 miles, and the breakin says 400 miles. I've gone ahead with a couple of pulls in 3rd to 5th clutch slip test, and in six at 1.2bar. This clutch drives just like your stock 996Turbo clutch, with no "on/off" race clutch tendancies. It can be feathered just like any clutch out there and the clamping force is amazing.

The two things I noticed that you need to be aware of are the fact that initial take-up is immediate upon pedal release, until the clutch breaks in. Over the 400miles it will adjust and you'll have a little pedal travel before clutch engagement. Also there is a little "spring rattle" that you will hear once the clutch has some heat in it, after a long drive. You'll hear it with the car in neutral sitting at idle... It'll be louder than anything you're used to. To me, this is an excellent trade off for a clutch kit that will hold 700BPH and Torque.

I'd like to mention that Kevin and UMW didn't make a single dime off my clutch purchase, since the indy-shop had their own parts source account. He listened patiently to my *****ing and moaning about the shop's decisions and was patient with them while they questioned his suggestions and doubted them openly to me. They were wrong and said so... they also had to eat crow concerning my tune and the performance of my car. As Robert, their tech said "Uh, dude, that car is the real deal. It's faster than any street car has a right to be." This, from a GIAC tuner.

So for those of you who want to replace a slipping clutch with something that will retain the street-ability we all crave, but need the additional clamping force for your power needs, I can certainly recommend the OEM Sachs components with the mods by Clutchmasters... They'll cost you a little more, but you'll gain a lot in the long run... To put it into a better light, my wife hasn't driven a clutch in over a year. With the recommendations given about "ceramic" based lightswitch clutches, I would never toss her the keys to drive this car... Now she can. It drives just like stock... That is all the difference in the world, to me!

Mike

 

What kind of cost could one expect for what you finally settled on?

 

For parts alone, I'd expect to pay $1800-ish. Then you have overnight shipping to and from Clutchmasters, and the cost of the mods (again about $600-ish) and then labor to instal. Since my lift isn't fully functioning yet (Expect that within two weeks) I paid to have it done.


Just got back from the last bit of break-in mileage. Had to run some parts up to a buddy in Warrenton Va. I swung back the long way thru Stafford, Va. hoping to stop at this new tuning shop that had an AWD dyno. Low and behold, they've shut down.

Looks like I'll have to schedule some time at Currys in the not so distant future.

Mike

 

Thanks - I'm just looking at the clutch parts... so I would expect to be around $1800.

When I looked at their site for our cars I could not find the parts you mentioned unless it's a special version not listed in the three options they list. Do you have part numbers for your set-up?

 

I'd caution you on trying to "go the thrifty route" and save a few bucks on this kit... If I had it all to do over again, I'd order it all straight from Kevin at UMW (Because he's been so honest and straight forward) and I'd make damned sure to not get the made in china junk some "vendors/Sponsors" are advertising. UMW sells the exact kit I had "made" for about what I paid for it, $2700. There would have been a whole lot less wasted time *(4 weeks with the shop and 2 missed events) had I not tried to be cheap and go with a less quality clutch. Furthermore, I'm left with a used LWFW that I spent WAY to much money for used and can't move for 2/3rd what I paid for it... PLus, I'm not even sure clutchmasters will deal with individuals. They really seem to want to push their own products, based on their website, and that brass puck deal they call ceramic is bad news on transfering driveline shock straight into the gear box... when there's no "give" in the system, things snap and get real expensive.

Mike

 

Thanks. Regarding the cost I meant I don't need the tuning program since I already have GIAC but thanks for the insite. I am trying to find the right upgraded clutch for my 550hp TT that gives me what I need if I up the turbo's which is all that left without getting into the engine. I was planning on the Sach's stage 2 or 3 that Steven Kasper recommended since I want the clutch to handle the power but I want nearly "stock" feel without the LWFW.

 

I think you misunderstood me. It doesn't matter who your tune is thru. The cost of the clutch kit is going to be what I "guestimated"... Plus having Clutchmasters do the mods. I don't think clutchmasters will allow you, a "customer" to send them a clutch and PP to mod. Clutchmasters is a real big seller of their product, which is a brass based kit.

Good luck with your research and clutch choice. I'm very happy with mine.

Mike

 

Hey Mike,
FYI, not all clutchmasters kits use a copper disc. Mine is hybrid fibertuff/kevlar. Drives like stock.

 

Michael, your guys at EPL didn't get your clutch components for you? Also, for others who haven't purchased a kit yet, know that some vendor components are made in china... I believe another member here posted pics recently of a "disk" that was pretty much trashed in short order... Beware what you buy and who you buy it from.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...d.php?t=126760

Mike

 

If I send your clutch in for you, it is $1000. You can get a complete new kit for $1800.

 

Mike,

FYI - I dealt with Clutcmasters directly. I next day aired the PP and the new disc I intended to use to them and they performed the PP treatment, matched the PP to the new Sachs disc and returned it via next day air the following day. Very smooth transaction. I too ended up with a completely stock feel using the OEM DM flywheel and the Sachs high friction unsprung disc. I do not have any additional noise, chatter or any odd characteristics - it's as smooth and quiet as can be. At first it grabbed right off the floor, but now, after 350 miles, the engagement point has moved upward slightly and it feels very good.

 

I use different folks for different stuff. They all play nice.

As for the components, I've heard nothing but good things about clutchmasters. That post is the first negative I've heard. That failure looks really interesting. I'd love to get the full story on that one. Dgreen?

When I was deciding which route to go, I figured, if they're the one everyone sends their clutch gear to to get reconfigured, they can probably spec out their own stuff OK. I'll be sure to post if mine explodes. So far it's been great.

 

Mine was more a situation of the shop not wanting to believe that UMW's tune, and the brain behind the tune were right. Next time I take my car to a shop, I'll spell out exactly what is to be done, and won't care about stepping on toes... Learned my lesson hard this time...

Mike