I recently put on the Agency Power rear upper control arms in order to get more negative camber in my car. They worked great - a very straightforward swap for the stock arms. They also offer a nice adjustment range: to go from -1 degree camber to -2 degrees takes 2 full turns on one bar and one turn on the other. That gives a lot of control.

Unfortunately, the adjustment also changes toe, so I need to get the adjustable toe link too to be able to conveniently go between track and street settings without another visit to the alignment shop. Parts on order from Vivid Racing. I have found Dan at Vivid to be very helpful and knowledgable.

Tire wear and handling were much improved at a recent track weekend.

I still can't get more than -1.6 degrees up front. I have to fabricate something to eliminate an interference between the spring perch and strut tower body to get more adjustment.

 

camber plates??

 

I should have pointed out in my earlier post that Tom K was very helpful with advice regarding his setup.

I have monoballs up front, and I think that all I need to do is to put a shim plate on top of the spring perch to eliminate the interference. If that doesn't work, then I will try camber plates.

Thanks!

Jon

 

I'd be interested in being able to go from track to street friendly alignment without trips to the alignment shop as well. At least until next track day where I'd get a proper alignment done prior to. But I dont want to have to go before and after every event.

But it does seem like you would have been better off with JIC's instead of all the toe links and control arms and PSS9's and camber plates. You would have been able to have all that with JIC. Hindsight is 50/50 though.

 

He is talking about toe and camber in the rear mainly. The JIC has front adjustable camber plates but the rear is a solid pillowball mount. Still better then stock. You could definitely get more then 1.6 with the JIC Cross.

Thanks for the support too!

 

Would Porsche adjustable front lower control arms work.

 

I dont think those will give you enough adjustment. They will help improve handling as they are much more solid and minor adjustments can be done.

 

Just curious, are the top of the front struts (the 3 nuts) pushed all the way inboard or outboard in the slots?

 

When I bought the car in 2006, it already had the PSS9's installed.

I had the slots extended by grinding them. I can pretty easily adjust the fronts for street and track. I have them make marks for each 1/2 degree of negative camber on the top, and it turns out to be that each 1/2 degree of negative camber on the front requires 1/4 turn of toe on the bottom.

This is what I am trying to get for the rear with the control arms and toe link.

Rear tire wear on street tires is terrible - 7K miles on my last set.