ECU upgrade concern
#16
I can only speak from the mileage I have which is nearing 40K these days on my own car. The Level IV was created with the factory AFRs and reliability in mind. One thing to remember is reliability and longevity are two different things. There are also few TTs that have cracked 100K miles since the footprint was new. That said lets keep in mind that reliability means no check engine lights, starts all the time and never fails. Longevity, how long the car will live and run without major engine work. The TTs in stock form should live well into the 200K mile range stock. This is a statistic running around internally that has not been proven locally only because the mileage hasn't been put on the cars yet. There are now several I know of well into the 100s that are still problem free. At least from major engine failure. The theory is you build it to maintain the factory AFRs and the similar parameters you will still end up with a car that will last for a while. There is a point where mechanical strength is no longer capable of handling the power. That said number is border line between 650-700HP based on the data we have. That means that areas such as rods etc will need to be strengthened. Enough of us have been running these levels without failure so we know there is a safety margin somewhere in there. The bottom line is level IV carries the same type of tuning numbers from us data wise as the II, III etc. It makes more HP and therefore more heat and you combat that in several ways in the tuning. We have never seen any failure due to ECU tuning on any of the levels and I know of at least one car with 55K on it that has run level IV since it was 1K miles old. ON the upper kits things like hoses etc can become an issue. Like anything maintenance also plays a part. Good oil on a regular schedule, good plugs, clean filter etc all help in reliability and longevity. I use mine daily and take all sorts of data in a months time. Reliability is near perfect, no lights, no non-starts etc. It is a proven.
It is unfair to assume that the 200K mark is still going to occur. The added heat and friction will not allow that. So the question is how long before major work is needed? good question. Based on what we see and the data we pull tells us that around 100K the car will need attention. That is not to say it could be less or more depending on the use, climate, care etc. If you track the car every weekend you will be in there in a hurry. Use it in the 24 Le Mans, Well who knows. Use it as a weekend toy...100K will not come for 20 years if ever.
It is unfair to assume that the 200K mark is still going to occur. The added heat and friction will not allow that. So the question is how long before major work is needed? good question. Based on what we see and the data we pull tells us that around 100K the car will need attention. That is not to say it could be less or more depending on the use, climate, care etc. If you track the car every weekend you will be in there in a hurry. Use it in the 24 Le Mans, Well who knows. Use it as a weekend toy...100K will not come for 20 years if ever.
#17
An X-50 buyer has already spent top $ for the "warranty proof" gain in bhp. My advise is to get the exhaust and filter and only upgrade if you plan on trading in to another car and switch back the computer. If you plan on keeping the car forever and longevity is an issue, don't chip it. If you are not sure about the future of the car in your hands, there is no wrong/right answer. The points about know your dealer and know your own needs are the two keys.
#18
A stock turbo (X50 or otherwise), or any car for that matter, will have greater longevity and reliability if both maintained properly and driven smoothly without imposing too much stress on the drivetrain. If you drive your turbo hard and shift it hard and stay in boost frequently, your car is simply going to wear out more quickly and reliability will decrease. Anything you do to the car to enhance its performance will likely accelerate the wear on your car if you drive the car hard more often than not. But, if you drive your car smoothly, even though you're going fast, its life will not be unduely compromised. Futhermore, if you make reasonable modifications to your car (i.e., good software like GIAC; exhaust like Fabspeed, Europipe, Ruf and the like; good suspension changes; etc.) your car won't be significantly compromised IF you respect it and realize that by "sharpening" your car's responses you are adding some additional potential stresses to your car. Frankly, if you give it the small amount of required additional maintence such changes require, your car will be fine if you don't abuse it. Lets face it these cars are great cars, but they don't rewrite the laws of physics. As regards warranties, all arguments aside, Porsche, or any auto manufacturer for that matter, has way more power than any of us do. You can argue with, debate or even sue them; but keep in mind, they have deep pockets and, as such, they will likely win or at least wear you down. Consider the risks and take responsibility for your decision. After all, they sold the car to you with your knowledge of the warranty. If you don't like it, don't buy the car or at least don't mod it. But, I've got to tell you, I've modified several Porsche turbos and I've never had a problem. My '91 turbo was modified over 13 years ago and I've never had a problem. I take care of the car and it continues to please. That's why I decided to mod my 2002 X50. I wanted more and I got it. The car was good stock; but, it is so much better now. For the record, my car has GIAC stage 4, Bailey DVs, Fabspeed loud exhaust, Ruf shortshift, Evo shiftlink, B&M shifter and Ruf suspension. Would I do it again. No question, YOU BET! If your car stock satisfies you, leave it alone because you have the least risk that way. But if you want more and your calculate your risks, I would mod it.
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