Newer 911TT Driving style/line
#1
Newer 911TT Driving style/line
I am new to the 911TT and trying to learn how to drive it properly. It appears that you trail brake less than mid engined cars, and that probably the most important thing is getting on the throttle as early as possible. This does 2 things, settles the car, and uses the huge acceleration potential to it's greatest advantage. To do this, I am thinking you probably brake a little deeper and harder than normal, and aim for a later apex so that you can be on the throttle well before the apex. At this point, you can use the throttle to drive the car. If you lift slightly, the rear end rotates and then when it is where you want it, you squeeze hard and do a big drift to track out and are gone. Is this correct?
#2
As far as exits go, in the GT2 i definitely try to apex as late as possible and get on the throttle hard. the later the apex, the more throttle i can give it without worrying about ending up off track.
mid corner the car definitely responds well to throttle inputs. I rarely adjust the steering in turns. However, i like to keep the car much more neutral than you are describing. when relying on the rear end to "come around" i have found that the car often over-rotates and has to be powered back into place. This undoubtedly loses time. i'm sure the TT snaps over much less though.
From what i can imagine of the dynamics of the TT it sounds like your plan is a decently good one.
mid corner the car definitely responds well to throttle inputs. I rarely adjust the steering in turns. However, i like to keep the car much more neutral than you are describing. when relying on the rear end to "come around" i have found that the car often over-rotates and has to be powered back into place. This undoubtedly loses time. i'm sure the TT snaps over much less though.
From what i can imagine of the dynamics of the TT it sounds like your plan is a decently good one.
#3
That has been the way that I drive the tt on the track so far. You are correct in saying that the car has to be settled down before you floor it. I had a few problems finding my braking points the first time out, which resulted in fade and smoke. The second time around, I was far smoother and I had no issues with brake degredation. Other then the understeer, it really was a pretty good experiance. The thing I miss with the tt, is getting out of the car drenched with sweat saying:"that was close!". Had that feeling driving a Modena but I guess that's due to the diffrent personalities/charictaristics of the two cars.
#4
Tim,
Yes, you need to be on the gas asap. Reread my response to your Day 1 post. As you already know, getting on the gas transfers the weight to the rear, with all of the weight of the 911 in the rear, this is a beneficial effect since all of that weight wants to go sideways towards the outside of the turn. Remember, the friction force = the normal force times the coefficient of friction. The coefficient of friction changes as tire temperature changes but the bigger facter in the equation is normal force. That is the force that is pushing perpendicular to the ground's surface......the weight of the car applied through the tire to the ground. Get on the gas early and the associated weight transfer throws more weight (normal force) to the rear wheels. Voila!!
Now, the other benefit of "early on" is the whole toe change debacle I described in your "Day 1" post. Briefly, your rear toe is changing as you are going from braking to throttle. That has a HUGE impact on how settled the car feels. As you apply throttle, it essentially "sets" the deformation in the large rubber bushings and as long as you don't lift, the car should feel hooked up. I took the rubber donuts out so I wouldn't undergo toe change.
Yes, you need to be on the gas asap. Reread my response to your Day 1 post. As you already know, getting on the gas transfers the weight to the rear, with all of the weight of the 911 in the rear, this is a beneficial effect since all of that weight wants to go sideways towards the outside of the turn. Remember, the friction force = the normal force times the coefficient of friction. The coefficient of friction changes as tire temperature changes but the bigger facter in the equation is normal force. That is the force that is pushing perpendicular to the ground's surface......the weight of the car applied through the tire to the ground. Get on the gas early and the associated weight transfer throws more weight (normal force) to the rear wheels. Voila!!
Now, the other benefit of "early on" is the whole toe change debacle I described in your "Day 1" post. Briefly, your rear toe is changing as you are going from braking to throttle. That has a HUGE impact on how settled the car feels. As you apply throttle, it essentially "sets" the deformation in the large rubber bushings and as long as you don't lift, the car should feel hooked up. I took the rubber donuts out so I wouldn't undergo toe change.
#5
Ken, can you describe the rubber donuts that you took off? What did you replace them with? In your opinion, do you think that replacing these rubber donuts is worth doing on a ROW car? I already ordered the GT-3 rear bar and don't want to change too many things at once. Ultimatly, I will have to go to a coil-over system but not now. I also ordered the stiffer motor mounts along with the brake ducts that Tim has on his car.
#6
#7
If you look at the big bolt head on the bottom of the control arm, you will see a silver ring around it. The stock piece is a rubber donut between the "tuning fork" and the control arm. THe new piece (silver) is two machined aluminum pieces.
If you can visualize it, the donut would allow the control arm to flex fore and aft (under braking and throttle forces) thus changing your wheel toe!!
If you can visualize it, the donut would allow the control arm to flex fore and aft (under braking and throttle forces) thus changing your wheel toe!!
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DerekShiekhi
Other British Cars
0
08-19-2015 05:25 PM