Had my RWD car dynoed today on an "Air n Sea" dyno whatever that means.

I have it as a doc file will try to post it.

The numbers to me are concerning.

the car has a Protomotive program with Todd's K-24 hybrid turbos, Vivid airbox, and Vivid headers with straight pipes. Has a 5 bar FPR.

thats about it. it was however with 100 octane

well this dyno which is supposed to be conservative gave best run hp at rear wheels was 575hp. (my doc file I have captured a 568)

I was told they use a 17% conversion so the crank hp is close to 700hp

this was at 1.15 bar. WOT AFR's were 12.

this seems too high to me can someone help interpret this stuff for me and I will try to post the actual run.

thanks

tom

 

Great numbers Tom, I am sure that thing is a beast at Sebring!

 

thanks Luis and it is I just dont want to damage the engine. I drive it hard and intentionally kept the boost below 1.2 where I wanted it to be at the track to be "conservative" but still considering turning it down to 1.0

dont really need all that hp (never thought I would say that!)

 

At 1.15 Bar it sounds like it's pretty conservative already (Compared to what others run here on their street cars), at 1 bar you should be good. What does Bob say about where you should be running boost wise?

 

Tom, this is why God created HP. To USE it. Kind of like the Force. Tom's Dyno Sheet.

 

Very nice my friend. Hope all is good in sunny FL.

 

Thanks Luis... BIG storm came through today. Other than that, HOT and HUMID... Say Hi to the wife. Take care and hope things are going well in the Great White North.

 

It is almost like breast reduction... what a waste. But again, they could be down to the floor if you don't reduce them. What a dilemma?

 

Thanks, will do man!

 

Sounds wise. Driving at the track all day long is a different world compared to some "highway pulls" and general street use...

But perhaps don't down-tune the boost that much, keeping it below 1.2 should be good, shouldn't it?

Dyno pulls do not tell the truth about power...even though it's fun they might produce great results...So congratulations of these numbers!

 

If you are referring to the AFRs... you dont want to run more then 12.5 on 100 octane... but just from experience I can tell you that 2 gallons of 109 unleaded or even C16 would drop it .3 and you can run more boost....
I know exactly how someone does it and has never blown a motor... he even ran his car to 1.7 bars.... did a leak down and compression test and it was perfect.... it all comes down to fuel.... and if I were you I would use something better then 100 if you running the car hard at the track ... then you really can open it up at 1.3 bars....
You can buy a remote hi to lo and vice versa switch for the greddy... its a cool thing because if you have long stretches at the track you hit the button on ur steering wheel to high boost - pass everyone up and and hit the remote button before the corner and drop the boost to 1.1 bars or 1 bar lets say.... that way your not coming into the corner with too much power.... and have more control in the turn etc....
just a thought....
markski

 

17% conversion sounds a bit high for RWD. At 12%, 568 at the rear wheels is 645 at the crank. About right for K24/18s on race gas. Congrats!

 

I don't think your car has enough fuel for 700hp with just 5.0bar FPR. To get to that level most will need larger fuel injectors. I would think about larger intercooler if running the car at this level at the track.

 

I agree,and it takes too long to get in the zone.Tom, you need a fuel system.

 

Damn, nice #'s!!