So I have my car up in the air have the accumulator off (Pentonsin sprayed everywhere, and yes I had pumped te pedal 25 times as recommended by the manual) and have loosened the bolts holding the slave to the tranny. I've gotten to the point of being ready to disconnect all three lines that go to the slave. Now I can't seem to disconnect the GREEN line from the brass connector that feeds the slave cylinder. Manual says to unscrew it, but I'm at a a loss... Any tips would be much appreciated...
Mike

 

 

Lots of junk on the bleed for me...required a full system flush by the mechanic......and I ran into TSB 3001 (clip jobs on the lines....leaks caused by messing with the slave we think.....). I lost the clutch AFTER the slave/acc job on track...fwiw. I was saved by Dougherty's guys ....(seschang's mechanic in particular...).


Major PITA job from all who know.....good luck. This is my major beef with the car..the clutch hydraulic system is too complex and hard to get to...my only major beef so far.

 

Thanks WROSS!!! That second PIC is what I was concerned about. I don't think it should be as tight as it feels. I'll give it another try this afternoon.

Jeff, I remember reading about your problems at the track. I'll be bleeding this thing down as much as possible... Having it up on the lift does make it easier to deal with. If you've ever had to work on a Chevy C5 Corvette's Hydraulic setup, you'll grow to appreciate the way the Porsche system is setup. To replace comperable parts on the Vette you have to remove the whole rear subframe, suspension, diff, tranny, torque tube, and then you can get to the hydraulic bearing. It's about an 8 hour job, with the lift.

Mike

 

Wow.

To save you my issue....flush the whole system a few times and get the circlips (the name that is used) on TSB 3001 on renntech. For you, piece of cake. Takes about 45 minutes for the Dougherty shop guys....fyi (the tsb). We found that on my car, the failed slave let a lot of stuff "go" on failure...junk into the lines....and it was important to get that junk out.

Had I done the above, no issues on track. All 996TT's in my mind should do the circlip thing....

Just wish the fluid was not so costly..

Best.

Jeff

 

Just read the TSB... I'll order those clips.

Mike

 

Mikelly I have to do the same thing next week-end. Do you think this job can be done just with the car on jacks. Also if you got any special problems let me know. thanks a lot, J.p.

 

Right off hand I think you need a 13mm "crows foot" for the back hard line nut. Also be prepared for a lot of pentosin... My accumulator sprayed pentonsin all over. Use towels doubled up to catch as much as possibe, and remember to unclip the water lines and ZIP TIE them to the driver's side frame rail to get them out of the way best you can.

Pentosin eats rubber, so you don't want it to sit for any length of time on any of your rubber lines/CVBoots..

Mike

 

I have steve at Suncoast ordering me all the parts for the 3001 TSB.

So I spent an hour this afternoon in the shop, car in the air, the accumulator already off, and it took me an hour to disconnect the union (Wross' picture 2 above) and all three lines. You'll need a compression disconnect tool kit to disconnect the middle line: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=2109 and like I mentioned earlier, 13mm crows foot for the furthest line to the rear:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...+feet&sLevel=0

Don't make the mistake I did and remove the front most bolt holding the unit to the tranny. That allows to much movement when trying to break that rear line loose. It took an hour to finish removing the unit. Now that I've done it, I could probably do it in half that time. That said, I'm not sure I'd recommend this for an "on your back with hackstands" kinda thing. I'm sure guys here have done it, since there are guys who have swapped clutches on jack stands. The thing is, Pentonsin is chostic stuff and you would be laying in the stuff if you do it. I just had a clutch upgrade and I could really choke my indy... They should have replaced the slave and accumulator. They never mentioned it. So I'm doing it, which is fine, but this is one job you might consider just paying the 3 hours labor and having it done by someone else. It's a bit of a pain, even with a lift.

Mike

 

Mike you are talking about a compression disconnect tool kit. Is it to press the red collar evenly to disconnect the middle line? In the repair manual they talk about a commercially available tool ? What it is ? I just crawl under the car to look at the job and in fact it won't be easy....Thanks a lot for all these info. It will be really useful. J.P.

 

You have to take the compression tool of the correct size, pushin it into the red ring evenly while also puching in the hardline. Then pull the line out. It's the tool in that link.

Mike

 

Strange when I look at your post the first time there was no link . You are making the job a lot easier for me. Thanks a lot again, J.P.

 

I can be a pain in the ***, but I truly do try to help!

Mike

 

So today I think I cross threaded the hardline at the back of the slave... This could be a BIG problem, since the line runs up the back of the motor to what I'm assuming is the power steering pump area...

Bottom line is if you aren't 110% sure you can do this without boogering something up, Don't bother wasting the time... Pay the 3-4 hours labor.

Mike

 

Of course the position of the valve is so high over the transmission it is hard to see if the line was straight or not when you started to screw it in. (Did you remove the starter and the drive shaft on the driver side ?) But Mike you don't have to found out the worse that can happen on the installation of this slave cylinder to make my life easier...I just received the valve today and I have to admit I am not so anxious anymore to start the job. Keep me inform of your evolution and I which you good luck for the remaining of the installation....J.P.