Braking better
#16
07-18-2008 | 11:24 PM
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Unv, i know the question is not regarded towards me BUT i'll say paigd yellows are awesome. They have goood brakeing when cold. Once up to temp people who ride in my car while when i go to mtn runs say the brakes brake their necks and they feel like they are being launch out of their seat. Do fluid and pads and you will see a world of diffs. I run pagid's i did orange and they were great but not that initial bite i wanted for my style of brakeing- so i went to the 29s yellow. The stock calipers are good with good pads. Stock pads are a joke. I keep the yellows all the time, the car is my DD.... i don't mind the brake squeak- they do squeak quite a bit.
My guess is that you live in one of the warm states, because I found the yellows to be lacking when it was cool outside and the brakes were cold.
#17
07-18-2008 | 11:28 PM
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What's your thoughts on the Motive Power Bleeder? Best supply source? 
Cheers
boss351 wrote :The AP brake lines are a breeze to install, just need line wrenchs (10 and 11mm). Fluid was easy with a Motiv Power Bleeder (and 4 bottles of Motol RBF), pads again easy, bedding no biggie.
Cheers
boss351 wrote :The AP brake lines are a breeze to install, just need line wrenchs (10 and 11mm). Fluid was easy with a Motiv Power Bleeder (and 4 bottles of Motol RBF), pads again easy, bedding no biggie.
#18
07-19-2008 | 06:20 AM
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That is evil! They are what I would like for sure, but being completly honest now.... I only have 3 track days under my belt. I have pretty well been the fastest in my group at each outing but I know that doesn't mean the car is perfect, but it has been handling great within my capabilities. The tyres and brakes were noticeably the weakest link in the chain for me and those issues have been fairly well dealt with.
It is also like power, before this last track weekend I was fairly hot to flash the car (and hence need a new clutch in the process) but at the track all I could think about was what the heck do I need more power for, just to shoot down the straights a little faster?? I was passing more powerful cars on the track (and see that all the time), for me the money would be better spent on coil-overs and sways as you say, leave the power mods till last...
It is also like power, before this last track weekend I was fairly hot to flash the car (and hence need a new clutch in the process) but at the track all I could think about was what the heck do I need more power for, just to shoot down the straights a little faster?? I was passing more powerful cars on the track (and see that all the time), for me the money would be better spent on coil-overs and sways as you say, leave the power mods till last...
#19
07-19-2008 | 06:42 AM
I do a lot of track days... Some of you have read and seen my exploits here... Here is my "formula" for the proper OEM 996TT setup...
Pagid Yellow pads all around
Motul RBF/ GS610/ AP Racing/ brake fluid bleed before EVERY event
GT3 RS cooling ducts.
I use the Motiv brake bleeder and I can bleed my brakes in 30 minutes trackside. I do NOT use the motive to pull the fluid into the system, but only as a pressure provider for forcing air out of the system. Once done with bleeding the air out, I add fresh fluid from an un-opened new container.
I pull air out of my brake system every single time I bleed it. No exceptions. So if you're tracking your car, you need to bleed the brakes thoroughly before each track weekend, and be sure to be patient. I tap on the calipers with a small rubber mallet to help move the bubbles out when bleeding circuits...
I've since moved on to the GT3 caliper/ 350MM rotor up front and the 997TT rotor in the rear, but the rest is the same...
These pagid yellows had 9 days on the fronts and 15 days on the rears, plus about 6K street miles...
Mike
Pagid Yellow pads all around
Motul RBF/ GS610/ AP Racing/ brake fluid bleed before EVERY event
GT3 RS cooling ducts.
I use the Motiv brake bleeder and I can bleed my brakes in 30 minutes trackside. I do NOT use the motive to pull the fluid into the system, but only as a pressure provider for forcing air out of the system. Once done with bleeding the air out, I add fresh fluid from an un-opened new container.
I pull air out of my brake system every single time I bleed it. No exceptions. So if you're tracking your car, you need to bleed the brakes thoroughly before each track weekend, and be sure to be patient. I tap on the calipers with a small rubber mallet to help move the bubbles out when bleeding circuits...
I've since moved on to the GT3 caliper/ 350MM rotor up front and the 997TT rotor in the rear, but the rest is the same...
These pagid yellows had 9 days on the fronts and 15 days on the rears, plus about 6K street miles...
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; 07-19-2008 at 06:45 AM.
#20
07-19-2008 | 07:08 AM
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What's your thoughts on the Motive Power Bleeder? Best supply source?
Cheers
boss351 wrote :The AP brake lines are a breeze to install, just need line wrenchs (10 and 11mm). Fluid was easy with a Motiv Power Bleeder (and 4 bottles of Motol RBF), pads again easy, bedding no biggie.
Cheers
boss351 wrote :The AP brake lines are a breeze to install, just need line wrenchs (10 and 11mm). Fluid was easy with a Motiv Power Bleeder (and 4 bottles of Motol RBF), pads again easy, bedding no biggie.
#22
07-19-2008 | 09:04 AM
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#23
07-19-2008 | 09:54 AM
I spoke with two race shops who specialize in Porsches and both said they didn't bother replacing the OEM lines. That's all I needed to hear... I'd actually bought new braded lines for my kit and didn't bother installing them... Sold them with the calipers/pads that I shipped to Sweden to one of the members here...
Mike
Mike
#25
07-19-2008 | 11:09 AM
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Fronts
6 Pot GT3 Caliper
Brembo Floating 355mm Rotor
Pagid RS29's
Goodridge Braided Lines
Motul RBF600
GT3 Cup Ducts
Ducting from Techart Spoiler straight onto rear of front rotor
Rears
997 GT3 Caliper
997 TT 350mm Rotor
Pagid RS29's
Goodridge Braided Lines
6 Pot GT3 Caliper
Brembo Floating 355mm Rotor
Pagid RS29's
Goodridge Braided Lines
Motul RBF600
GT3 Cup Ducts
Ducting from Techart Spoiler straight onto rear of front rotor
Rears
997 GT3 Caliper
997 TT 350mm Rotor
Pagid RS29's
Goodridge Braided Lines
#27
07-19-2008 | 06:06 PM
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From: Melbourne Australia
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#28
07-19-2008 | 08:09 PM
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That is evil! They are what I would like for sure, but being completly honest now.... I only have 3 track days under my belt. I have pretty well been the fastest in my group at each outing but I know that doesn't mean the car is perfect, but it has been handling great within my capabilities. The tyres and brakes were noticeably the weakest link in the chain for me and those issues have been fairly well dealt with.
It is also like power, before this last track weekend I was fairly hot to flash the car (and hence need a new clutch in the process) but at the track all I could think about was what the heck do I need more power for, just to shoot down the straights a little faster?? I was passing more powerful cars on the track (and see that all the time), for me the money would be better spent on coil-overs and sways as you say, leave the power mods till last...
It is also like power, before this last track weekend I was fairly hot to flash the car (and hence need a new clutch in the process) but at the track all I could think about was what the heck do I need more power for, just to shoot down the straights a little faster?? I was passing more powerful cars on the track (and see that all the time), for me the money would be better spent on coil-overs and sways as you say, leave the power mods till last...
#29
07-19-2008 | 09:16 PM
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From: CIR PCA Region
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EBC reds here (carbon, new formula). No issues on 35F days, no issues on track. No issues.... Now tires are another story.
Guys, the new ebc's are not bad. Try some....red is less dust, more "nice" per their site on rotors, but more street. Yellow is more DE/track....more dust.
JB
Guys, the new ebc's are not bad. Try some....red is less dust, more "nice" per their site on rotors, but more street. Yellow is more DE/track....more dust.
JB
#30
07-19-2008 | 09:38 PM
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Steven and Mike have it spot on for track guys and they are some of the best on this board.
only thing I have done differently is slotted rotors up front and I like the pagid blacks in the rear to compensate for some front to rear brake bias.
As for the SS lines I think they could play a role in protecting the lines from getting cut on the track or wherever but as for increasing braking or pedal feel, sorry it just really is
urban legend.
only thing I have done differently is slotted rotors up front and I like the pagid blacks in the rear to compensate for some front to rear brake bias.
As for the SS lines I think they could play a role in protecting the lines from getting cut on the track or wherever but as for increasing braking or pedal feel, sorry it just really is
urban legend.