KeithTA Protomotive 997 vs. Chris Green USP 996
#91
Will be interesting to see if your back half picks up the mph that my gt3076's did. If it does, great testament to the K24's....
#92
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Last edited by onelove; 08-07-2008 at 05:11 PM.
#93
Chris - Can you post an image of the time slip showing your 1/8 @ 107?
#94
Chris and his crew at USP went through my car and performed a pressure test starting from the turbos and didnt find any leaks. However they did find other problems. Here is the email from Chris I recieved Thursday afternoon after he finished inspecting the car:
"After thoroughly inspecting the car, my technicians and I noticed several problems with the car as well as flaws in the current turbo system. To start off all of the vacuum lines on the car are flimsy rubber that kink easily and expand substantially under boost pressure. Moving on to the main issue, the diverter valve (blow off valve) setup. This is the center of your problem. As you will see in the pictures below the diverter valves are placed a couple inches away from the compressor wheel on the compressor housing. This is the worst possible place to put them because not only are you recirculating hot air back into the intakes but you are also releasing all of the compressed air inside the turbo when you shift, hence your lag issue after a shift. In addition to the diverter valves location being a problem, the boost lines that go to the valves are flimsy and kinked. I also noticed on the passenger side diverter valve the intercooler bracket has begun to wear through a piece of the aluminum piping and it is only a matter of time before it goes all the way through and creates a substantial boost leak. Now, for the boost controller problem. The pressure source for the boost controller is being pulled from the cold side of the passenger side intercooler. Instead, the boost controller pressure source should be within 6 inches of the outlet on the turbo’s compressor housing since boost pressure on the cold and hot side of the intercooler will vary slightly. This would account for why the boost controller would not be consistent and it would constantly need to be adjusted to run a certain boost pressure. After finding all of this we thoroughly inspected the turbo inlet pipes and found that they are crushed almost entirely in certain spots. It is possible for us to make them out of aluminum piping but will be very labor intensive. However, the performance and throttle response that will come along with the aluminum turbo inlet pipes will make it well worth it." ---------- END OF EMAIL.
Since he didnt mention this in the email, Id figured Id add this in......there were leaks in both of the air ducting hoses that were connected off my airbox leading to the turbo compressors AFTER the mass air sensor. Which means my car was drawing in extra outside air after the mass air sensors already measured the air flow. I wonder how badly thats throwing off my air/fuel ratios?? That may be the reason why my car was tripping MAP errors on the ECU when Todd was dynoing my car. I also had a few MAP errors showing on my ECU from some personal tests I ran and had experienced TONS of boost shut downs while driving where the car refused to make more than 5 psi of boost. Every time this would happen, I would have to recycle the key to clear the fault to get normal boost levels back.
After a few suggestions from Markski, I also found through tests myself that my Profec was bringing the boost in gradually rather than slamming my peak number immedietaly. I tweaked some settings and improved the delivery of my boost.
I will discuss this further with Chris and decide on what to do.
Keith
"After thoroughly inspecting the car, my technicians and I noticed several problems with the car as well as flaws in the current turbo system. To start off all of the vacuum lines on the car are flimsy rubber that kink easily and expand substantially under boost pressure. Moving on to the main issue, the diverter valve (blow off valve) setup. This is the center of your problem. As you will see in the pictures below the diverter valves are placed a couple inches away from the compressor wheel on the compressor housing. This is the worst possible place to put them because not only are you recirculating hot air back into the intakes but you are also releasing all of the compressed air inside the turbo when you shift, hence your lag issue after a shift. In addition to the diverter valves location being a problem, the boost lines that go to the valves are flimsy and kinked. I also noticed on the passenger side diverter valve the intercooler bracket has begun to wear through a piece of the aluminum piping and it is only a matter of time before it goes all the way through and creates a substantial boost leak. Now, for the boost controller problem. The pressure source for the boost controller is being pulled from the cold side of the passenger side intercooler. Instead, the boost controller pressure source should be within 6 inches of the outlet on the turbo’s compressor housing since boost pressure on the cold and hot side of the intercooler will vary slightly. This would account for why the boost controller would not be consistent and it would constantly need to be adjusted to run a certain boost pressure. After finding all of this we thoroughly inspected the turbo inlet pipes and found that they are crushed almost entirely in certain spots. It is possible for us to make them out of aluminum piping but will be very labor intensive. However, the performance and throttle response that will come along with the aluminum turbo inlet pipes will make it well worth it." ---------- END OF EMAIL.
Since he didnt mention this in the email, Id figured Id add this in......there were leaks in both of the air ducting hoses that were connected off my airbox leading to the turbo compressors AFTER the mass air sensor. Which means my car was drawing in extra outside air after the mass air sensors already measured the air flow. I wonder how badly thats throwing off my air/fuel ratios?? That may be the reason why my car was tripping MAP errors on the ECU when Todd was dynoing my car. I also had a few MAP errors showing on my ECU from some personal tests I ran and had experienced TONS of boost shut downs while driving where the car refused to make more than 5 psi of boost. Every time this would happen, I would have to recycle the key to clear the fault to get normal boost levels back.
After a few suggestions from Markski, I also found through tests myself that my Profec was bringing the boost in gradually rather than slamming my peak number immedietaly. I tweaked some settings and improved the delivery of my boost.
I will discuss this further with Chris and decide on what to do.
Keith
#95
Good luck Keith. At least you have discovered what could be wrong and now you can fix it. As for what to do next, let me help:
1) Fix it
2) Challenge the Batmobile Z06 to another race
3) Race Chris Green's USP again
1) Fix it
2) Challenge the Batmobile Z06 to another race
3) Race Chris Green's USP again
#97
Batmobile race outcome wont change, I can assure you of that.. he has way too much MPH and instant HP..
#98
Is it stroker or just forged rods/pistons?...Can i ask who built it? QualityMotorsport?
#99
batmobile doesnt have the Z06 anymore but i believe their is a yellow one in miami with his same setup roaming around
#100
![Cool](https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
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