Suman,

I think you missed the main point of the thread (dyno numbers are often meaningless).

 

^^^^
Best way to compare is side by side in Mexico :-)
R

 

Suman,

^^^^what they said^^^^

I do believe Tony's kits make good power also.

MK

 

Or to dyno on the same day and same dyno and same conditions.......kind of like TX2K9! LOL
Peter

 

Yes they are.

 

I hope. I would defiantly help one of our 700 lever customers out, if they wanted to go down.....

 

Marty,

Get a stock car on this dyno at some point (matts?).

I would venture to guess, based on your #'s and your trap speeds....a stock cars makes ~300-310 awd on this dyno.

 

^^^Smart words from a smart man.

 

There is nothing wrong with Martys tune. When I was at EPL we dynoed the Proto tune and then changed the ecu out with an EPL generic K24 Bosch coded ECU. Same day, same dyno - back to back runs and we made roughly 10HP more with the EPL Bosch program, but the point being that this is what that kit does - the numbers were about 480-490. I expected after the EPL custom tune to make a little more and we were still right there, however, it was 100 degrees, humid and we ran about .1 less boost. I am confident we gained 20-30 HP over the original dyno, which would put the kit around 510 - 520 AWHP on a better day. Pump gas and 1.1 bar. We will know in a few weeks as we are going to re-tune and re-dyno on a 70 degree day to maxmize the package. The K24/18's make the power differently than the K16/16G - the 24/18's were still climbing at 6,500 RPM, whereas the 16/16G's reach their peak earlier and taper off at the end. It's a diferent power delivery. The 16/16G's made fantastic power and it was on a cooler day - I'm curious to see what these cars ET and trap.

 

John,

Would you mind posting both dyno sheets? I'd really like to compare curves and #'s between the two. Thanks.

 

Scott,

I am late for a wedding and just tried to upload the sheet to Rennlist gallery, but it's not letting me log in. I'll get it up later today when I have a minute...

 

I might take my car down to TX this year Tony...let me know what you had in mind!!!

Tim

 

Pm sent.

 

Marty,
Down here we call that sandbagging. Everyone watch out if you think your stage 2 will run with Marty's car. This is how money is lost. LOL. Hope all is well with you Marty and we all know that to go 191 in the mile there is some serious power going to the pavement. Take care.

 

Scott,

OK, I'm back - Here it is (for some reason I can still not access the RL photo gallery for uploads, which is where I have all my images stored). Let me give you some background, so that you understand exactly how these dynos relate. The proto tune is the green line and the EPL is red. The Proto dyno was done on a cooler day and at 1.2 bar boost with the Proto air intake system and Ford MAF. The EPL dyno was done on a much hotter (approx. 100 degrees), extremely humid day at 1.1 bar with a stock air box and Bosch MAF. As you can see, the spool up is a little slower with the OEM air box, but the HP and torque is greater throughout the mid range and they finish virtually identically from 5500 RPM's onward. There is a dyno comparison sheet that was done with both the proto tune and EPL generic tune (not customized yet) on the same day, same hardware that shows quicker spool than the proto tune with the Bosch programming, but I don't have it here. I am working on getting a copy now.

A couple of other facts that give insight to these graphs...The first day we dynoed the proto air intake system with both the Ford MAF (full Proto 700 kit) and then dynoed with the Bosch K24 program ECU (not customized yet) with the MAF disconnected, as there was no way to use the Bosch MAF with the proto pipes. We relied on the default Bosch settings for running with no MAF. On that dyno, which was back to back with the car still strapped down, the bosch ECU program with the MAF disconnected actually spooled quicker than the proto tune with Ford MAF installed and developed about the same increase in the midrange, then finished roughly even up top, again. Unfortunately, I lost that dyno sheet on the way home (it blew out the windowby accident) and I have asked Tony for another copy, but did not receive it yet, so I can not post it tonight. When I went back to the stock air box, I lost the quicker spool, but retained the midrange increase, even at a slightly less boost level and substantailly higher temps.

My feeling is that the slower initial spool on the final dyno is being caused by a few factors: 1) extremely high temperatures and humidity vs. the original day, 2) the stock air box being the dog we both know it is and 3) the slightly lower boost setting. That said, I plan to re-install my V-Flow to help with spool up and throttle response and we plan to retune and redyno on a cooler day in the next few weeks. I will dyno at 1.2 bar with 93 octane on a 20 degree cooler day to simulate the original days conditions, then put in some race gas and dyno at 1.3ish with a race tune (a little more timing) to see the difference. My gut instinct says cooler weather + V-Flow + custom re-tune will result in a very nice gain from the current 100 degree run with stock air box.

I have to admit, I felt the same as Marty after seeing these numbers and came away thinking that dynos must not tell the whole story. I thought the dyno was very low compared to a lot of the dynos I see posted, but my 1/4 mile time and trap has stood up pretty well. You don't see many 996TT's running 10's on street tires, yet I was less than 2/100 of a second from it with this package. And Marty was right there, too - so our cars dyno similar on a Mustang and 1/4 mile similar, as well.