Wachuko - did you install it? What are your thoughts?

 

Apologies for the delay. Got it installed the same day it came in. First of all, for the price, it is a great buy.






The install instructions describe the need to remove some material from the stock box. Pretty easy to do with the dremel. Same goes for cutting the opening for routing the air in the snorkel.

I did have to work the snorkel to get it to fit correctly as the holes would not align perfectly. And yes, I had all bolts loose, but no way to get it to fit without some work. Had to remove material from two holes to get it to align. Not a big deal, but not a straight bolt on install.

One recommendation. There is not enough seal material to build the seal around the snorkel. Just provide one long strip what we can glue around the snorkel instead of four pieces. I will find a new seal later. But did the best I could with what came in the kit. I had to cut every piece in half to make it work. Later I will try to find that seal and do it again with a single, long, strip.

I am using the stock filter. I did not notice any seat of the pants improvements. But this was not the reason I did this mod... I just wanted bragging rights of having a piece of Carbon Fiber in the engine bay

However, and this might be my mind playing tricks on me, there was a moment where I think I heard a nice intake howl/woosh/something...

 

Awesome look and install Jaime. Thanks for the update. I think you should get the K&N filter to finish it off. Then the pants will be greased!

We still have these available!

 

OK, I'll chime in here with a couple more tips for anyone that has this on their 'to-do' list over the weekend.....and I'll throw a few more pics on my site.....some are below

• Misc: If you are not one of us that have had your MAF in-out numerous times … two reminders: 1.) find your T20 Star/Torx bit for those two screws and remember you 1st remove the electrical cable from the MAF, then the MAF from the intake housing. Forget how to release that electrical contact boot? Remember it simply needs a sharp depression on the flat ribbed side (right looking down) …. & pull …. nothing else.
• More misc: You will be taking many screws (and screw caps) off the deck lid when you get to that part. Old wise advice, throw a heavy towel over your engine before you work. Some of us have never dropped a screw or socket down into their engine…. some of us.
• Air box rear attach to front: As has been mentioned, the high points on the rear piece need ‘leveled’ to provide a flat surface to meet the new CF. The little flat tabs at ea. screw point also serve no purpose going forward.
• Re-placement of new box into engine cavity … it takes patience, even with the OE box it’s a chore. The dif with the new CF is that it is lighter (prettier) and you want to protect it. The OE box is bullet-proof ABS and you can just wrestle it in there. Only 4 tips I have on the CF is 1.) more patience 2.) loosen both band clamps on the rubber collar you will be working your new box into to provide as much play down there as possible, also might apply some Vasaline on that collar 3.) protect the left back edge of your new CF box from where it will come in contact with the back of the engine compartment as you work to wrestle it in. See my pic where I tape a plastic strip over that area (1st pic).
• Re-placement of new box into engine cavity: All know you have to stand the box on end (right side high) and work the box in as you bring down right side (watching contact of left side with back of engine compartment).
• Rear box attachment screw: OE grommet can not be used. I chose a large rubber grommet from the hardware store (to go under the new boxes attachment tab).
• Cut the new opening in engine cover bracket: Remove everything up there. The only odd screws are the 3 longer for the fan and the nuts that fasten the wing operator to the top side of this whole bracket.
• Tip when you remove the whole bracket shroud: That wing operator (see pic, alum color cylinder left -right) is heavy was attached to the top of whole bracket you are removing & now has no support other than electrical wires … so have a large tie strap handy to secure it up & hold til you have bracket shroud ready for re-install. Lots of wire there that can pull. First one to pull is the wire & connector to the right wing position sensor. I’d put a tie on that (to hold it in tight) to be safe (2nd & 3rd pic)
• Cut: Grab a bar of soap or chalk & mark your cut. Cut where you like but the pattern you see here works well and addresses the main opening (similer to the OE right snorkel).
• Re-Install all: New small ties on the right electrical, CF scoop mount holes are tad off, not a big deal, but the unit does spring to shape also. I use OE rubber scoop gasket, same as right fits perfect ($20. with club disc @dlr) and I put the new on the right.
• Not a bad job: I could do a second one inside 2 hours …. (this 1st took a tad longer ;-) ... and if you have SAMCO SI hoses you will have a clearence issue.

 

And .... pics 3-7 that got lopped off the post above.

 

I just want to see some dyno data and/or road data of stock/paper versus this/paper versus this/BMC or this/K&N....

Anyone?

Great looking. I clearly am quite sure that I'll be able to do this solo to the car....I just want some data.

JB

 

is the zip tie on the wing piston to keep the connector in place?

 

POP my first my first mass air yesterday.

 

Did you by chance clean your K&N filter and oil it?

Mike

 

Nope brand new C/F Box with New K&N

 

awesome post Gregg. your a true asset to this forum!

JCB - a long time ago I tested the K&N drop in filter compared to the stock paper filter and then to the Fabspeed intake when I first got my 996TT. The K&N made about 7hp or so. I will see if I can find that dyno sheet this week.

Palette - you are probably right at the level where the stock MAF is no good with that turbo setup. Not sure what boost you are running, but on my 996TT running 1.4bar on my GT2860's, the car was fast as hell, but the MAF could not handle the power. Did you properly have the car scanned to ensure your MAF went?

 

I found it on my Project 996TT Gallery here - http://www.vividracing.com/forums/ga...images.php?c=4

This is OLD SCHOOL! I tested just the BMC filter vs the paper filter, then I also tested the Fabspeed air intake. Look how stock my car was I would associate Fabspeeds intake for the 996TT similar to our carbon dual flow in its purpose so you can see how the increased air flow makes the difference.

 

Hey Dan Yea i had it scanned. Funny thing is that i was only hitting .5-.7 bar when it popped. I was shocked cause 4 days earlier i was hitting 1.1 bar and no problem. The most the car has seen so far on the Greddys is 1.17bar

 

Yep ... that's the shortest lead up there & all will pull on that guy (unless you use more care than I) .

 

Thanks Dan. I am sure your set up is cooler in terms of air. I hope someone does 60-130's or laps on a track....but, so many variable no matter what (tire temp, driver alertness, shift missing, etc.). I suspect it is about 10hp...

Again, thanks.

JB