Well it depends... If you're only checking lug studs, then sure 100# wrench will do it... But if you're checking or reinstalling other parts, like checking the axle nuts, for instance, you might want to go with something a bit higher...

Mike

 

 

Always remember to let your turbos cool down for 2 minutes before shutting off the engine. It's in the owners manual. Overheated turbos can bake the oil in them and make it crystallize which will make it abrasive and contribute to wear and smoking on start up.

 

Mike as always alot of great info from you. didnt get through all this and may have been mentioned but as most know the water temp reaching 180 is still some time away from the oil temp up to where you want it to be before hard driving. just try to check the oil level when the 180 degree mark is hit it will tell you the oil isnt warm enough yet.

 

Tom, You know, I've gotten that error when checking fluids, at pit out, and I was told by a couple techs not to worry about it... So you're saying I should worry about it? Good to know!

Mike

 

No, it's not anything to worry about. It's just an easy way to see if your oil is "hot" yet. What Tom is saying is that your coolant temp is not your oil temp. Coolant heats up relatively quickly compared to oil. As most know, but don't always think about, is the coolant temp sensor measures the temp of the coolant. Not the engine oil. Just because your coolant is at "operating" temp doesn't mean every component and fluid on and in your engine is. Oil takes close to twice as long to warm up at idle. When you are able to get an oil level reading from your cluster, it means the oil is at a temp that your temp sensor/cluster sees as operating temperature. You can let in come down off of high idle and drive it where ever, but I would recommend 5 min of driving or make sure you are able to check your oil level with the cluster before getting into boost. I have seen very very little problems with these cars and I work on them every day. As for the transmission problems, I'm sure bigger dealers have seen more problems due to more volume, but I have only had 4 or 5 of them apart since 2001. I know two were broken gear teeth on very high HP cars, and the rest were worn or cracked syncros. If there is a "weak link" in the car, it would be the transmission in my opinion because they can't take the beating that some can, but it's not a drag car. It was built to serve a purpose which was not for trying to beat that built 69 Camaro off the tree and to the quarter mile mark by constantly dumping the clutch and banging gears. It's a lot of fun to go do that to see if some recently added mods were worth it, but every weekend will kill the trans. There has been a lot of very good advice on the thread. Hope it all helps.

 

I'm with mikelly,

the PSM is definitely too intrusive. Especially in tight corners when you need to rotate the car.

I'm not the greatest driver (it takes a hell of a lot to even get close), but I'm getting much better at driving the car with the throttle and brake.

I agree that PSM should never come off on the street except maybe for an on ramp launch.

To the OP: the biggest danger IMO is being too slow, or slowing down in the middle of a corner. The weight behind the rear tires wants to come around and leans on the rear sidewalls hard. Sometimes you will feel the PSM do more than just brake, you will definitely feel a sinking feeling in your stomach when you lift and the car doesn't seem to slow down, like the engine braking is gone. That's PSM givin it a tiny bit of gas to lower the yaw.

IMO the tranny is hard as hell, it's the syncros that are weak.

 

I understand (quite well actually) that the coolant temp isn't the oil temp, hence "coolant"... But since we don't have an oil temp gage, this was what I was told to use as an indicator... I won't from now on.
Thanks!

Mike

 

One of the custom options Tony can put on an ECU is a boost lockout until oil temp comes up. Basically you're stuck at .7 bar until you're up to operating temperature.

 

HARD track use will destroy the inadequate front calipers / rotors.
Ask me how I know ---

GT3 setup will alleviate any and all problems, use decent pads - Pagid RS29 cannot be beat for toughness and longevity.

Yes, Motul 600 is all you need in any case -

Got my stuff from over at Rennstore dot com

 

Sounds pretty useless to me! You can trash a cold motor with thick cold oil with not much boost and rpms over 6k!

 

the point of the restriction isnt to see how much damage can still be caused

lots of good "at the track" pointers

 

Adam,

Great thread. I'm another new 996tt owner in Chicago. Great pointers in this thread, especially for on track. Anybody have any guidelines for winter set-up for the 996, so as to better handle Chicago's pot-holes next year?

 

Here's a few tips to Chicago potholes

1. Avoid driving on Cicero Ave

2. Keep your tires properly inflated even when you feel it's to cold to go out there and check

3. Swerve religiously to avoid them.

 

Great thread. Thanks for all the good DE track information.