The do's and dont's of driving a 996TT??
#48
03-17-2009 | 07:16 PM
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great stuff here. One comment re the track with these car. Aside from the braking as you guys covered so well; It is said nothing plants like 911. That is certainly true with this model. So when exiting the apex , unwind the wheel slightly , tracking out, and you can put down enormous power making these cars fly down the track. For those of you who havn't experienced this. You won't believe what is possible with these cars ,Just ask Tom Kerr
Elliot
Elliot
#49
03-17-2009 | 08:20 PM
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Maybe one clarification...when you first start up you don't need to wait to warm up to go...manual actually says to not sit and warm up. But do stay under 4K rpms until the oil is heated...and only way to be sure it is actually up to temp is to check oil level, it won't check if not up to temp (no, I don't do this but I do wait for 180 water temp, and have driven it long enough to "know" its warm before I wot, etc). Cool down is two minutes...but can be adjusted based on how hard the car was driven prior to shut down.
Also get a battery tender if you don't drive 4-5 days a week. And find out how to get into the front trunk if your battery is dead. Lots of desperate threads from locked out dead battery guys. Be sure you can open your door manually with your key...the rest is cake.
Also get a battery tender if you don't drive 4-5 days a week. And find out how to get into the front trunk if your battery is dead. Lots of desperate threads from locked out dead battery guys. Be sure you can open your door manually with your key...the rest is cake.
Last edited by dublinoh; 03-17-2009 at 08:22 PM.
#51
03-24-2009 | 10:32 PM
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Mike, I think you mean "speed shifting"...
Couple of other comments here...
I don't know anyone's driving experience in this thread... I can tell you that driving the car with PSM turned off is not "the wrong car" for me. If you have experience driving any higher HP car with traction control turned off, then you'll be fine... This car is very neutral and safe to drive and very predictable regardless of the nanny button's engagement. I'd recommend turning it off in a safe place and experimenting (think LARGE parking lot) to see how much PSM interferes when on, and what the car does when off... Also, there are several of us who have found that the smooth way aruond the track sometimes is with it off... I learn the track with it on, keep it on until I've got it down to just "perfecting the line" and then turn it off for a few laps to see where I can actually make the car rotate around corners... I know several other track day junkies on here do the same exact thing, and I don't think Tom Kerr or Dez even turn it on at all at the track... PSM is VERY intrusive once you get beyond a certain level of driving, so know this going in to "leaving it on always, even at the track".
The "brakes" were HORRID, at least on my car... If you have the 6 piston setup, then you don't have the OEM stock base model brakes... This car is heavy and will overwhelm them at the track, unless you have proper hi temp fluid (NOT ATE) and track pads with minimum of 3/16th thickness... Jump on the brakes repeatedly from deep onto a brake zone and the weight of the car will cook the fluid and your pedal will go soft... I go in early and easy on the brakes, adding pressure as I get deeper, then I Heel/toe (sometimes to leasurely) and get back on the gas at turn in... Brakes are expensive on this car, so keep that in mind if trying to brake at the last two markers on a long straight...
My "street" driving goes like this...
Start the car and let the oil warm until it is nearing the 180Degree mark on the coolant gage... I will not rev the motor above 4K until the oil motor is at full "warm". In general, the car builds so much speed that I drive a LOT with my cruise control... Mine is modified and makes boost sooner than a stock turbo, with less spool, so I am constantly paying attention, especially in traffic. However, get used to where your turbos come alive and stay below that in stop and go, and it'll drive like any other car... They're do anything well cars, and extremely rewarding to drive rain or shine, anywhere, any time. Spend some time getting used to the car and just enjoy it...
No, it's not an Elyse, but the steering is much better than the C5 Vette I had... It's lively and responsive, and turn in is great... feedback is decent on my car, but again, it's got coil overs (Came on my car when I bought it) and I'm sure a stocker may have less feedback...
You'll get a lot of opinions on this site, including mine, and none of them are wrong. Each is our own "personal" perspective...
Mike
Couple of other comments here...
I don't know anyone's driving experience in this thread... I can tell you that driving the car with PSM turned off is not "the wrong car" for me. If you have experience driving any higher HP car with traction control turned off, then you'll be fine... This car is very neutral and safe to drive and very predictable regardless of the nanny button's engagement. I'd recommend turning it off in a safe place and experimenting (think LARGE parking lot) to see how much PSM interferes when on, and what the car does when off... Also, there are several of us who have found that the smooth way aruond the track sometimes is with it off... I learn the track with it on, keep it on until I've got it down to just "perfecting the line" and then turn it off for a few laps to see where I can actually make the car rotate around corners... I know several other track day junkies on here do the same exact thing, and I don't think Tom Kerr or Dez even turn it on at all at the track... PSM is VERY intrusive once you get beyond a certain level of driving, so know this going in to "leaving it on always, even at the track".
The "brakes" were HORRID, at least on my car... If you have the 6 piston setup, then you don't have the OEM stock base model brakes... This car is heavy and will overwhelm them at the track, unless you have proper hi temp fluid (NOT ATE) and track pads with minimum of 3/16th thickness... Jump on the brakes repeatedly from deep onto a brake zone and the weight of the car will cook the fluid and your pedal will go soft... I go in early and easy on the brakes, adding pressure as I get deeper, then I Heel/toe (sometimes to leasurely) and get back on the gas at turn in... Brakes are expensive on this car, so keep that in mind if trying to brake at the last two markers on a long straight...
My "street" driving goes like this...
Start the car and let the oil warm until it is nearing the 180Degree mark on the coolant gage... I will not rev the motor above 4K until the oil motor is at full "warm". In general, the car builds so much speed that I drive a LOT with my cruise control... Mine is modified and makes boost sooner than a stock turbo, with less spool, so I am constantly paying attention, especially in traffic. However, get used to where your turbos come alive and stay below that in stop and go, and it'll drive like any other car... They're do anything well cars, and extremely rewarding to drive rain or shine, anywhere, any time. Spend some time getting used to the car and just enjoy it...
No, it's not an Elyse, but the steering is much better than the C5 Vette I had... It's lively and responsive, and turn in is great... feedback is decent on my car, but again, it's got coil overs (Came on my car when I bought it) and I'm sure a stocker may have less feedback...
You'll get a lot of opinions on this site, including mine, and none of them are wrong. Each is our own "personal" perspective...
Mike
Reg brakes YOU are the problem, not the brakes. You are not supposed to prolong the braking by easy braking first, that is what is cooking them, basically you are FRYING them. Hard, deliberate short braking from high speed to entry speed, trail it in a bit and start lifting the brake gently as you turn in, then get back on the gas and ramp fast. Every second on the brakes count so stay off them as much as possible and only use to really reduce speed.
EDIT: I saw you were looking from an economic aspect - so yeah, if you´re not running flat out but more enjoying yourself and you want to conserve pads a bit, Mike's technique will be ok!
A newbie to Porsche should most of all get used to the weight in the rear on a parking lot with PSM off, try EVERYTHING incl releasing the throttle while turning in decent speed. That is all.
A newbie to Porsche and tracks should also leave PSM on, on track too.
Last edited by MrWhite; 03-24-2009 at 10:46 PM. Reason: see post
#52
03-25-2009 | 06:51 AM
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I don't launch the car too often, but when doing so I rev up to 2k rpms and feather the clutch out smoothly, and then stab the gas pedal once rolling.
At what RPM should I step on the clutch when in 1st gear WOT, and shift to second, assuming I'm stock with 6.5 k redline?
Also, I haven't done this, but assuming you stay in 1st a split second too long and bounce off the rev limiter, can you bend any valves that way or will the rev limiter protect against any damage?
I'm still a noob when driving this car, and going WOT still scares me in a good way. I can't imagine what a flash and new exhaust would do.
At what RPM should I step on the clutch when in 1st gear WOT, and shift to second, assuming I'm stock with 6.5 k redline?
Also, I haven't done this, but assuming you stay in 1st a split second too long and bounce off the rev limiter, can you bend any valves that way or will the rev limiter protect against any damage?
I'm still a noob when driving this car, and going WOT still scares me in a good way. I can't imagine what a flash and new exhaust would do.
#53
03-25-2009 | 07:24 AM
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I don't launch the car too often, but when doing so I rev up to 2k rpms and feather the clutch out smoothly, and then stab the gas pedal once rolling.
At what RPM should I step on the clutch when in 1st gear WOT, and shift to second, assuming I'm stock with 6.5 k redline?
Also, I haven't done this, but assuming you stay in 1st a split second too long and bounce off the rev limiter, can you bend any valves that way or will the rev limiter protect against any damage?
I'm still a noob when driving this car, and going WOT still scares me in a good way. I can't imagine what a flash and new exhaust would do.
At what RPM should I step on the clutch when in 1st gear WOT, and shift to second, assuming I'm stock with 6.5 k redline?
Also, I haven't done this, but assuming you stay in 1st a split second too long and bounce off the rev limiter, can you bend any valves that way or will the rev limiter protect against any damage?
I'm still a noob when driving this car, and going WOT still scares me in a good way. I can't imagine what a flash and new exhaust would do.
While hitting limiter is not "bad", it's not good either as far as trying to go fast. Not as bad as hitting the brakes, but close. TRY NOT to hit the limiter when you shift. Hitting the limiter is like letting of the throttle, sort of, so just let off the throttle sooner to shift. Takes practice...
#55
03-25-2009 | 12:07 PM
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Wow. Great info from folks with real experience. All this advice has just further confirmed what I've been finding out about my (new to me) GT2: Very dangerous if there's a lack of common sense.
Last edited by MTheory; 03-25-2009 at 12:35 PM.
#57
03-25-2009 | 12:46 PM
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From: Irvine, Ca
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What do you guys think about this method of a "soft launch" and how will it wear the clutch?
#60
03-25-2009 | 04:17 PM
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Mikelly describes a driver who does not like trailbraking = does not like turning in before he has gotten back on the gas to feel nice and comfortable with a bit of weight transition applied to the rear end.
That is ok and personal preference and depends on what goal you want to set for yourself. A 911 runs fastest on trailbraking. That is 100% true.
But what is a bad influence on brake temperatures is to softly ride the brakes for a while to get a little condifence (and start boiling the fluid) before actually applying the pressure to reduce speed. This WILL raise the fluid and brake temp before you have even started to slow down. This is also 100% correct.
Nobody should do this unless you really bring less speed down the straight and really NEED to get that confidence. In that case, there won't be any biog issues with brake temp since they are most likely sparsely used around the lap, as opposed to someone going flat out.
Anyhow, the above is a repeat of my previous posting, just clearer. Re-read it and make a habit of reading fully before you comment blindly... although given your "strong" statement I get a feeling you may have figured out who I am and are just trying to be funny.
Welcome to dicuss at my next clinic.