The do's and dont's of driving a 996TT??
#61
03-25-2009, 03:59 PM
just a few things
firstly... check your tire pressure once a week
my car is EXTREMELY sensitive to just a few lbs of pressure
have fun with the car.. redline every single gear as often as you want..
these engines are bullet proof
as ive stated before, my car now has about 60,000 type 1 over revs... and not a single problem with the engine.. the car doesnt even leak oil ...
do not hit the brakes in the middle of a turn.... the car gets upset and depending on the speed and angle, it can set off the PSM which in most cases will cause you to be in more trouble rather than getting you out safely in that situation
always check and add oil accordingly
whenver possible, (roads and conditions permitting) drive with your PSM off.. .get the car loose in the first few gears... theyre so much fun and super easy to control
and most of all
HAVE FUN with these cars
the 996 turbo isn't an expensive car anymore....
beat the **** out of it ... it loves it..
go 200mph as often as you can, thats what the car is made for
oh yea , one major dont..
don't launch the car ... the rear axles have the strength of tooth picks
firstly... check your tire pressure once a week
my car is EXTREMELY sensitive to just a few lbs of pressure
have fun with the car.. redline every single gear as often as you want..
these engines are bullet proof
as ive stated before, my car now has about 60,000 type 1 over revs... and not a single problem with the engine.. the car doesnt even leak oil ...
do not hit the brakes in the middle of a turn.... the car gets upset and depending on the speed and angle, it can set off the PSM which in most cases will cause you to be in more trouble rather than getting you out safely in that situation
always check and add oil accordingly
whenver possible, (roads and conditions permitting) drive with your PSM off.. .get the car loose in the first few gears... theyre so much fun and super easy to control
and most of all
HAVE FUN with these cars
the 996 turbo isn't an expensive car anymore....
beat the **** out of it ... it loves it..
go 200mph as often as you can, thats what the car is made for
oh yea , one major dont..
don't launch the car ... the rear axles have the strength of tooth picks
#63
03-25-2009, 06:18 PM
Registered User
For an advanced student or black/red run group driver, I could see exactly what you're saying to do braking. I also see that someone at that level should bring lots of coin for pad/rotor replacements.
Otherwise, I like focusing on the "talent" sections and leaving the 8ths and above for White/black/red drivers... Most of these guys are Green to white run students, and have a budget. Most of them aren't wanting to replace pads/rotors every 4-6 days... I've talked with guys like Dell Tollin and Matt Callahan... They go thru lots of consumables, but are the fast guys to chase... Trailbraking doesn't bother me at all, and I do a fair amount of it. I just pick my battles on my budget. Works for me!
Mike
Otherwise, I like focusing on the "talent" sections and leaving the 8ths and above for White/black/red drivers... Most of these guys are Green to white run students, and have a budget. Most of them aren't wanting to replace pads/rotors every 4-6 days... I've talked with guys like Dell Tollin and Matt Callahan... They go thru lots of consumables, but are the fast guys to chase... Trailbraking doesn't bother me at all, and I do a fair amount of it. I just pick my battles on my budget. Works for me!
Mike
How can they be 100% incorrect when I add the comment that if you wish to drive like Mikelly then he is right. So you say Mikelly is right, and I say he is right, and then you say I am 100% wrong. You have 100% no idea about what you are talking about.
Mikelly describes a driver who does not like trailbraking = does not like turning in before he has gotten back on the gas to feel nice and comfortable with a bit of weight transition applied to the rear end.
That is ok and personal preference and depends on what goal you want to set for yourself. A 911 runs fastest on trailbraking. That is 100% true.
But what is a bad influence on brake temperatures is to softly ride the brakes for a while to get a little condifence (and start boiling the fluid) before actually applying the pressure to reduce speed. This WILL raise the fluid and brake temp before you have even started to slow down. This is also 100% correct.
Nobody should do this unless you really bring less speed down the straight and really NEED to get that confidence. In that case, there won't be any biog issues with brake temp since they are most likely sparsely used around the lap, as opposed to someone going flat out.
Anyhow, the above is a repeat of my previous posting, just clearer. Re-read it and make a habit of reading fully before you comment blindly... although given your "strong" statement I get a feeling you may have figured out who I am and are just trying to be funny.
Welcome to dicuss at my next clinic.
Mikelly describes a driver who does not like trailbraking = does not like turning in before he has gotten back on the gas to feel nice and comfortable with a bit of weight transition applied to the rear end.
That is ok and personal preference and depends on what goal you want to set for yourself. A 911 runs fastest on trailbraking. That is 100% true.
But what is a bad influence on brake temperatures is to softly ride the brakes for a while to get a little condifence (and start boiling the fluid) before actually applying the pressure to reduce speed. This WILL raise the fluid and brake temp before you have even started to slow down. This is also 100% correct.
Nobody should do this unless you really bring less speed down the straight and really NEED to get that confidence. In that case, there won't be any biog issues with brake temp since they are most likely sparsely used around the lap, as opposed to someone going flat out.
Anyhow, the above is a repeat of my previous posting, just clearer. Re-read it and make a habit of reading fully before you comment blindly... although given your "strong" statement I get a feeling you may have figured out who I am and are just trying to be funny.
Welcome to dicuss at my next clinic.
#64
03-25-2009, 06:55 PM
For an advanced student or black/red run group driver, I could see exactly what you're saying to do braking. I also see that someone at that level should bring lots of coin for pad/rotor replacements.
Otherwise, I like focusing on the "talent" sections and leaving the 8ths and above for White/black/red drivers... Most of these guys are Green to white run students, and have a budget. Most of them aren't wanting to replace pads/rotors every 4-6 days... I've talked with guys like Dell Tollin and Matt Callahan... They go thru lots of consumables, but are the fast guys to chase... Trailbraking doesn't bother me at all, and I do a fair amount of it. I just pick my battles on my budget. Works for me!
Mike
Otherwise, I like focusing on the "talent" sections and leaving the 8ths and above for White/black/red drivers... Most of these guys are Green to white run students, and have a budget. Most of them aren't wanting to replace pads/rotors every 4-6 days... I've talked with guys like Dell Tollin and Matt Callahan... They go thru lots of consumables, but are the fast guys to chase... Trailbraking doesn't bother me at all, and I do a fair amount of it. I just pick my battles on my budget. Works for me!
Mike
I was coming in with a bit different perspective (no compromises) and I was also not really agreeing to your statement that the brakes are horrid.Back to original topic:
One more thing: Over-revving on down-shift is a big no no! Don't do this.
About waiting for oiltemp before boosting a lot, have a glance at the oilpressure. It won't change much but when the oil heats up it will sink a tiny bit, giving some sort of indication.
Last edited by MrWhite; 03-25-2009 at 07:29 PM. Reason: "Back to original topic"
#65
03-25-2009, 07:13 PM
Registered User
I have a pretty good handle on match revs and heel toe... Been doing that for quite some time. The biggest improvement to the 996TT for track use is getting rid of the dual mass flywheel. So no worries about over revving (engine braking=bad) on downshifts!
Mike
Mike
#66
03-25-2009, 07:35 PM
mike, interesting
why do you say engine braking is bad ?
for example, when coming to a light, i am able to rev match 2nd into 1st at around 4 grand...
i love listening to the backfire while the car comes to a hault.. .
is that bad for the motor ? if so, how ?
why do you say engine braking is bad ?
for example, when coming to a light, i am able to rev match 2nd into 1st at around 4 grand...
i love listening to the backfire while the car comes to a hault.. .
is that bad for the motor ? if so, how ?
#68
03-26-2009, 09:41 AM
It's not that it's bad for the motor, it's just not a useful practice for the track. Downshifting without matching revs is hard on the clutch, and it tends to upset the car. Using the engine to slow the car is not nearly as effective as the brakes. You should downshift only when you will need to be in a lower gear when you accelerate out of the next corner.
#69
03-26-2009, 11:16 AM
I was WONDERING about this......I need to go back and read the manual on my 996 because I didn't see that and wondered about whether a cool down was required on these cars or not.
#70
03-26-2009, 11:19 AM
Rule of thumb: Cool down required on EVERY turbo in EVERY vehicle.
How you do it is up to you. You can sit in your car, in or out of your garage, and let it run, or you can drive it easy the last few minutes of your drive...
#72
03-26-2009, 12:03 PM
Diggin' this thread. Going to 1st DE day April 10th.
I'm ready to sign up for the next one already.
I live in the trees (Pacific Northwest) and haven't taken PSM off, although now after this thread, I'm thinking about just going out and giving it whirl. I haven't had this car sideways yet and don't know the limits at all.
I've felt the "squat" for certain - love that at the apex - just WOT and down she goes.
I used to have a SAAB Viggen and got to explore the limits at Road Atlanta during the Viggen Flight Academy. Felt really comfortable sliding that car around especially after replacing all the crappy GM rubber bushings for poly.
I'm ready to sign up for the next one already.
I live in the trees (Pacific Northwest) and haven't taken PSM off, although now after this thread, I'm thinking about just going out and giving it whirl. I haven't had this car sideways yet and don't know the limits at all.
I've felt the "squat" for certain - love that at the apex - just WOT and down she goes.
I used to have a SAAB Viggen and got to explore the limits at Road Atlanta during the Viggen Flight Academy. Felt really comfortable sliding that car around especially after replacing all the crappy GM rubber bushings for poly.
#73
03-26-2009, 12:21 PM
Registered User
Yup, It's not efficient and really upsetting to chasis dynamics, and I've been told of atleast one 996TT that had engine damage from over reving under engine breaking...
Once you're in the intermediate to advanced level of driving, you should really be heel/toeing!
Mike
Once you're in the intermediate to advanced level of driving, you should really be heel/toeing!
Mike
It's not that it's bad for the motor, it's just not a useful practice for the track. Downshifting without matching revs is hard on the clutch, and it tends to upset the car. Using the engine to slow the car is not nearly as effective as the brakes. You should downshift only when you will need to be in a lower gear when you accelerate out of the next corner.
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