I agree but he is experiencing according to him a few other issues... one of which is overboosting.... I made him check the last boost setting and it was at 1.55 bars on pump gas... and he said that he heard "popping " noises... and that is detonation....
Basically, he is running way too much boost on pump gas so I originally thought that by making him turn off the greddy he would not get the ecu to pull timing and freak out... if the problem doesnt persist at 1 bar then why would it persist at 1.3 bars? I think it's a harware issue... TB or sensor... I would also do a pressure test from the turbos and check if the springs opne up correctly and the saem time.... inspect the copressor wheel as well ....
Ironically, he experssed his "surginess" at the track... but he also said that the instructors pointed that out.... hhmm could that be that they are not used to 500rwhp TT P car that hits at once at 4500 rpms? NA cars do drive differently at the track...
He needs a good pair of eyes on it otherwise we will talk till he blowes it up.... BTW, this also happened with his other GIAC/Evoms GT640 so I think its not ECU related but rather inherent hardware issue...
Mark

 

okay, let me be clear, markski, i told you, i will watch the boost, but that has nothing to do with this thread, i am hitting 1.1 solid right now and not over. The problem is still there even at low boost, just less power so less noticable, but look the throttle plate opens 99% at basically 50% or so on the pedal.

i have a stock ecu file loaded on to the ecu now per Todd, here are my results, still surging.

Okay, I uploaded the stock program, confirmed it is stock due to lower idle and "nice deadened pedal feel"(which i love about stock cars, perfect for in-traffic modulation)


Turned BC to about 0.8 bar


Still noticed the surge.


Notice that both sensors on the pedal and throttle positions ( there are two for backup ) are normal. The plate flies open again 99.6 at 5krpm on the nose.


RPM Pedal value Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 Pedal encoder potentiometer 2 Spec. throttle plate angle Throttle position sensor 1 Throttle position sensor 2 Throttle plate angle, potentiometer 1 Throttle plate angle, p

4531 54.99 2.19 1.1 41.08 2.13 2.86 41.7 40.6


4732 54.99 2.19 1.1 36.44 1.91 3.08 35.9 39.8


4969 67.59 2.49 1.25 61.33 2.58 2.42 52.3 99.6


5347 70.79 2.56 1.29 99.96 4.35 0.67 99.6 99.6


5725 80.39 2.8 1.4 99.96 4.35 0.67 99.6 99.6


Is there anything else that can cause this ? Nature of the beast ? Is there any way to get it 1:1 ratio short of converting this to a drive by wire : > I test drove a local tune by EPL and the car wasnt this bad at all. Same components but with injectors and no 5 bar fpr, 1.3bar, putting down 525 awd whp. I will drive his again after he installs a 5 bar fpr and some other mods shortly.

DW

 

Dean just saw this post and dont feel like reading the whole thing so if I dont make any sense ignore it.

I have the same set up as you. I run 98 or 112 octane at 1.2 bar at the track. there is NO lag with this set up. you need someone else to drive your car or show you how to. unless your instructor has a high hp turbo car he will only be able to show you driving basics not doing what your car can do.

I would focus on learning to drive first then worry about the car. you have to much car and too little track experience for a beast like that.

if you are staying in 4 or 5 gear??? your car will be **** unless you are over 120??

I am sorry to say it sounds like you not the car. pm or call me.

 

okay, but at least five instructors drove my car, all wondering what is wrong with the modulation. I use a boost controller to turn down the power to focus more on cornering and clocking in the seat time. Just finished a rainy track day today and hoping my Tuesday event next week will be sunny ! But track experience and driving habits are not the subject here. Its the fact that after half throttle the throttle plate goes into WOT. I just flashed between stock and proto and data logged both. My mechanic friend was working the laptop and he clearly sees and feels the issue happening on both, thinking its nature of the beast. The numbers i posted here are proving its not anything i am doing wrong with my pedal. potentiometers in the pedal and both sensors in the throttle plate are data logging fine, so those shouldnt be the issue. But we may try swapping a throttle body if i can find one to borrow.

 

It also might be worth trying a new a throttle position sensor, although I would think that the TPS would fail in an all-or-nothing manner.

 

Todd has now duplicated the issue on his 996tt and will get back to me with a fix, also the throttle shutdown i was having earlier seems to be cured by Todd's reflash he gave me, ridding the p1508 error code i had. i should not have paid $4k for programming with all the issues its caused me.

 

I had the same issue with the 18g setup and just wrote about it in 20g install thread check it out or pm me

 

could u post the link, cant find - also recommend to all, take your durametrics, monitor rpm, throttle pentiometer, plate position, get to a open road, press foot down slowly and see if your throttle body flip wot at 50%+ on the pedal. I hope proto works out this programming, too bad my n.j. mechanic didnt find this issue (instead they sold me stock actuators and told me to run 0.6 bar on the track as the only solution) I am tired of paying others and finding the root glitches myself.

 

Here u are...from the people I have talked to several people with the 18g setup and they have experienced the same surginess u are talking about... It may be inhearant of thw 18g turbo...
I know I expeienced the same thing u are talking about. What intake r u running?


https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ng-strong.html

 

you did a great job !

i ran stock, evoms, tried both intakes. it wont matter what turbo you put on if the ecu goes wot at half your pedal

 

Thanks! in theory it should not mater but... What if the pressure is blowing open the throttle plate? Record the MAP sensor readings also and letme know

 

I have a excel sheet with MAF as well, i will try my best to post that. In all, ecu'ing has not went well for me. I would love to get a refund and work with a local tuner, at least have someone seeing my problems first-hand and dealing with it (or not). EPL dyno'd my car and saw my issues, he says he knows the issue and would love to have me try out his tune and keep it only if happy. Sounds very fair and a very fair price. ( whether he can or not, its a very fair offer ) I paid three times his amount and in the end I have to diag all the issues and hope for resolutions, doesn't make sense. I left Giac because i was told gt28's aren't the way to go, so i converted to someone that specifically promised a smooth pedal and no surg'ing. In the end, here I am, out $4k in ecu proto software, running back and forth to NJ who has no dyno and no durametrics ( about ten work days lost there trailing my car to them, 4 hours each direction x 2, each time). People that just slam the pedal down and do 1/4 mile runs don't realize they are missing half a pedal of modulation. So, was this perfect tune promised to me over the phone my answer, no. Did i give it all i could to make it work, yes ! Would i get a refund if I asked for one . . .

 

Dean,
Tom Kerr has the saem set up.... he is a track freak... he loves his car.... I am sure he would have seen it had it been in every 18G car.... call him...
I lost 2 FVD programs ($4500), 1 cargraphic, and one GIAC all before I did Proto.... thats a total of $10K in ecus over the years.... YOUR NOT ALONE...
I am not techinical enough to tell you what is happening to your car... but at best request TOdd to fix the issue , if any, via software.... what is his take on this one? What does he say?
If he can tune a 996tt to run on gt3 code im sure he can adjust you TB postion accordingly to your liking....
best of luck,
mark

 

thx as always markski ! wow, you really went through some ecus yourself. . . do you have a shop open there in chicago that you manage ? wouldnt be a bad idea with all you know, teach the 996tt art to a local shop and manage that nitch there.

 

Sounds like a few mods too many.

If the parts werent designed specifically for smooth (er) than stock power delivery then chances are they'll make it worse. And at those hp levels the effect will be even more exhaggerated.

If it wasnt that way before the mods, then it's certainly not the cars fault. Driving a turbo car will always be different than NA, but I know exactly what you are talking about which is why I kept it simple on my TT.