Thanks - Did I mention I also had 6 Vettes??? I auto crossed one heavily ten years ago - I was drifting before it was cool!

 

Nice, bro. Porsches and 'Vettes. I always appreciate true car guys.

 

if you need help with that hi me up . i can walk you through it and give the approx setting you will need.

 

Just went through my time slips for the past year to compare if Jnixon was recalling the exact #'s of my stock tt and stock ttS cab. Best I could ever get on my stock tt was a pretty consistant 12.7@111 whereas in my ttS cab I was 12.5@113. Once I flashed the ttS cab with a Proto tune and put an exhaust on I did one crappy run and I recall trapping at 117mph but did not improve my 1/4 time. As mentioned the best I have done in my pe650 was early Oct 11.92@125.77 my reaction time was .7248? To sum up what I am getting from the conversations is get the cars dynoed and be open to the obvious that we may still need to work on our 1/4 mile skills.

On that note I typically do the following:

Drop air pressure rears 35 hot, fronts 30 hot.
Rev eng to 2500-3000ish rpms and slip the clutch/mash throttle.
psm off.
switch gears at 6500ish.
clutch in-gear in-clutch out "as fast as I possibly can".
Street tires no burn out b/c awd.
full weight in car spare,tools + I weigh 200lbs est.

Jnixon is 190lbs est not 400 but that wuz funny.

Thats it, I am open to feedback.

That would be cool to check the pbox times on my car. I will pm the member who suggested lending me his.

 

Reaction time has zero effect on your 1/4 mile times, bro...nor does it matter during anything but bracket racing. Sounds like you guys are letting off the throttle way too early....which is why your trap speeds are so low.

Go get some 60-130 times and that will tell us a LOT.

Start accelerating at 40 mph or so, and stay in it until 135. Be sure to shift at redline...and try starting both 2nd and 3rd.

 

lose the tools and spare tire, drop air pressures way down, (hell you are running higher
pressure than what alot of us run on a road racing course).
Try rear tires at about 22-25 psi hot.

MK

This is for 1/4 mile drag racing!

 

OK, I'll try drop pressure even further and stay on throttle longer. I think my rev limiter was raised when the Proto650 was installed b/c I have yet to hit it and I know at times I have been up there. So I'll try shift at say 7500 if car allows. Looking into getting a pbox soon. Thanks for the input

 

Thanks... will do!!!

 

My rev lmtr was set pretty high and the only time I was ever there was when I was trying to see max MPH on a certain gear or in 6th toppin out the car.... ALL 1/4 times came back quickest shifting 6300-6100-6000-6000 and so on.... When I shifted high I got 11.3's....just an opinion...

 

OK, I'll try drop pressure even further and stay on throttle longer. I think my rev limiter was raised when the Proto650 was installed b/c I have yet to hit it and I know at times I have been up there. So I'll try shift at say 7500 if car allows. Looking into getting a pbox soon. Thanks for the input

 

My friend only looks at the cars boost gauge during his runs against my 997 Turbo. I was suprised his car would stay constitently at 1.3bar and above but I believe that is the 996 turbo's gauge limit when in reality his 996 turbo was boosting above 1.3 bars perhaps over 1.6. Thus, his car was putting out same or more power than my car was producing. Both my friend and I were running MS 109 fuel on a low 70s day. This was the first time we had run the cars together in cooler weather.




I know a lot of you are already experiencing some winter temperatures, but here in the great city of Houston we are just getting into the low 60s at night. Figured I'd give some of our new bigger HP people some tips if they are new to their setups and turbos in general need to keep some things in mind.

The biggest thing is to pay attention to your boost controller for your peak boost you are seeing. When it gets colder you will notice a increase in the amount of boost you are seeing so you need to factor this in when you are selecting what type of fuel you plan on using. If you can adjust it I would recommend setting the boost controller for less than you normally do.

Example (Keep in mind I am running MS109 when this happened): During 80-90* weather I see 20.1psi peak when my boost controller's gain is maxed out. In the 70s it sees 21-22psi. Well on Saturday night I'm coming home and I start dicking around in 3rd gear. I hit it and was like holy **** this feels incredibly fast, because I have just started seeing more than 20psi because of my new intake tubes and the weather. So it felt fast at 22psi, but this felt even better. Well I look down and see my Peak Hold was 23.8psi and I was like because I had no clue it was going to do this. It was only 65* outside and I didn't think it would change that much so I had no clue what my A/Fs are. So I do the semi unsafe thing to do, because I was on a LONG stretch of road with nobody on it and no side streets. I picked up my A/F gauge and started watching it (it's about eye level with the road). I rolled into it 3rd gear again and the a/fs stay in the 11.6-11.9 (touched 12.1 during spool) and I look at my Peak Hold again expecting to see 23.x, but instead I see 24.9psi. The car felt incredible! I know its not safe, and I plan on dialing down my Boost Controller. I am guessing that 24.9psi (roughly 1.71bar) the car was making close to ~750+rwhp in the weather. It felt incredible, but thats playing on the edge right there!

I just want to warn people who are new to turbos (other than stock) and have some of these kits that use an aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller. Just be safe... I don't want to see any post from people about how they gernaded their motor because they didn't change their boost controller or had the right fuel for the amount of boost they are running. I myself forgot about it and I could have been in the same boat. Luckly though I run with my EBC off when I am on pump gas, so the boost stays at about 16-17psi.
__________________
2002 996 Turbo 11.8 @ 118.7 (Stock K16's) | 11.50 @ 130 (Pump Gas GT3071/K24 @ 16psi)

 

He has a boost controller, which is far more accurate than the OEM boost gauge, so I'm assuming that is what he refers to for monitoring/regulating boost. He also has a limiter feature on the boost controller, which if exceeded, will open the wastegates and bleed off large amounts of boost. I relatively sure he wasn't boosting 1.6+ bar.

Just because his car "only" makes 650 HP and yours makes 700 HP, doesn't mean it's impossible for him to beat you, or that hollywood's car makes more than 650 HP. Peak HP isn't always the main factor. Torque and area under the curve play a big part in the outcome of a race. The 18g turbos have a relatively flat HP/TQ curve, and while they may not make huge top-end power, they do provide more power for longer periods. I'm not familiar with the turbos you have on your car, but if they were anything like my GT700 turbos, they make good power for a short period of time and then fall off. They may in fact produce 700 HP, but only for 200 rpm. The 18g's on the other hand, produce 600-650 HP over a much longer range.

If you look at the 60-130 list, there is an AWE700 kit and a PE650 kit, and the times are nearly equal, and are 6.99 and 6.96 respectively. I know for a fact the PE650 kit was ran on 1.2 bar, but an unsure about the AWE700. Keeping that in mind, it's not totally out of the question for you not to be able to pass the PE650...

 

I think for a roll-on with cars of similar power, the car with the ltw flywheel gets the jump. It should get on-boost earlier, and then hold the lead so long as the power levels are not too different (cars of equal weight, etc).

 

My friend does not look at the greedy boost comptroller because it is in his glove box. My friend was telling me his car hit the 1.3 bar and never went below that boost level. I am only making an inference has to what could possibly have happened. My car is a 997 turbo.

 

That post about the cold weather is mine. My dash reads 1.5bar when I am making higher amounts of boost. Though it is not accurate at all. It will say 1.5bar when In reality I'm making 1.35/.4 bar. Hell it says it's in boost when my boost controller doesn't show it making a lb of boost yet. Also when all this happened it was 63* or so out side. The 70s don't make that much of a difference on my car.

Get a 60-130 on both cars and that should tell a lot. Remember if you can start in 3rd for your 60-130 it's going to be better usually. Normally a run with 2 shifts will be slower than a run with 1 shift.