TRG corner balance and aggressive street alignment
#18
My GT2 was aligned to factory specs and it nearly got me killed at 170 mph...twitchy is an understatement. I shelled out the bucks for an experienced racing shop to align and corner balance and she is much more stable.
#20
Zip22, please re-check your rear TOE settings. -2 degrees is a ridiculous amount of rear toe-OUT which would be very unstable. The toe should be (+) toe-IN to enhance high speed stability.
#21
I'm kinda surprised that with all the information we've posted out here that you had trouble using the search function to get the info you needed.
I was running almost identical specs to yours with the FACTORY adjusters. Last season I installed Vivid's dogbones and GT3 lower control arms to get more camber annd found that the sweet spot setting for the camber is about -2.9 front and -2.5 rear with about -1.8mm rear toe and about 0 front toe.
Mike
I was running almost identical specs to yours with the FACTORY adjusters. Last season I installed Vivid's dogbones and GT3 lower control arms to get more camber annd found that the sweet spot setting for the camber is about -2.9 front and -2.5 rear with about -1.8mm rear toe and about 0 front toe.
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; 12-28-2008 at 04:55 PM.
#22
I'm kinda surprised that with all the information we've posted out here that you had trouble using the search function to get the info you needed.
I was running almost identical specs to yours with the FACTORY adjusters. Last season I installed Vivid's dogbones and GT3 lower control arms to get more camber annd found that the sweet spot setting for the camber is about -2.9 front and -2.5 rear with about -1.8mm rear toe and about 0 front toe.
Mike
I was running almost identical specs to yours with the FACTORY adjusters. Last season I installed Vivid's dogbones and GT3 lower control arms to get more camber annd found that the sweet spot setting for the camber is about -2.9 front and -2.5 rear with about -1.8mm rear toe and about 0 front toe.
Mike
Mike I run near what you do and agree with your comment. I think the OP was talking about "street" driving not a full camber for track events?
also dont those camber set ups we use relate to R compound tires vs regular street tires?
also to the OP just curious if the PSM light doesnt come on anymore with your setup? cause the above set up mike and I use on the track the car is undrivable with the PASM on.
although all this set up and PASM issues really doesnt or shouldnt apply to a car on the street?
let us know how the car handles on the track, the street info is near worthless however was a nice post and great pics and good of you to share what you have learned thats what makes this forum great.
glad your car is more stable now.
Last edited by tom kerr; 12-28-2008 at 05:22 PM.
#23
Tom, My guess is the PSM was flashing because he had minimal traction with street tires/conditions. Now that my car is set back to -1.5 front and -2.0 rear, I get that on spirited drives. The power on my car will overcome the suspension pretty quickly and cause PSM to light up. Based on the pics and his aftermarket Wastegates, it probably isn't stock. So I'd assume he's putting down enough power to overcome the traction control.
And his car? Absolutely GORGIOUS! I love that color Blue... Did I mention I hate black? I'd consider trading my beast for something with the right color combo just to get away from BLACK!!!
Mike
And his car? Absolutely GORGIOUS! I love that color Blue... Did I mention I hate black? I'd consider trading my beast for something with the right color combo just to get away from BLACK!!!
Mike
Mike I run near what you do and agree with your comment. I think the OP was talking about "street" driving not a full camber for track events?
also dont those camber set ups we use relate to R compound tires vs regular street tires?
also to the OP just curious if the PSM light doesnt come on anymore with your setup? cause the above set up mike and I use on the track the car is undrivable with the PASM on.
although all this set up and PASM issues really doesnt or shouldnt apply to a car on the street?
let us know how the car handles on the track, the street info is near worthless however was a nice post and great pics and good of you to share what you have learned thats what makes this forum great.
glad your car is more stable now.
also dont those camber set ups we use relate to R compound tires vs regular street tires?
also to the OP just curious if the PSM light doesnt come on anymore with your setup? cause the above set up mike and I use on the track the car is undrivable with the PASM on.
although all this set up and PASM issues really doesnt or shouldnt apply to a car on the street?
let us know how the car handles on the track, the street info is near worthless however was a nice post and great pics and good of you to share what you have learned thats what makes this forum great.
glad your car is more stable now.
#25
As I stated in my PM to you, I believe it should be -2mm. All my experience prior to a Porsche, it was measured in inches, or percentages of inches.
-2MM doesn't seem like much. But I remember 1/8th of an inch negative on my Corvette and me looping the car at over 100MPH in a high speed left hander.
-2MM isn't a lot, but it is.
Mike
-2MM doesn't seem like much. But I remember 1/8th of an inch negative on my Corvette and me looping the car at over 100MPH in a high speed left hander.
-2MM isn't a lot, but it is.
Mike
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