I just finished up my stage 2 clutch job: organic rigid clutch with sachs racing pressure plate and aasco flywheel. I have 3 areas to warn potential mechanics. Clutch fork, clutch fork shaft and screw and bracket and plastic end cap that retains then fork shaft in place. I cursed the german engineers that had no regard for the field mechanic. I separated bellhousing to motor 8 times for dropped clutch fork, the needle bearing end caps on the clutch fork shaft and the (too) short bolt that holds retaining cap and small bracket for human fingers. You needed fingers like E.T (and I don't have small hands). Of course some of the difficulties lies in this is a virgin job for me on the 996tt so it was a bit exploratory. Of course the factory says to remove engine and trany together. The clutch fork shaft has needle bearings on both ends, you must slde this in while holding the clutch fork in place while making sure the throw out bearing ears are at 9 and 3 o'clock position. The factory used tacky grease to hold the needle bearings in place. If you have to back out slightly cuz of misalighnment the bearing caps may come off hence drop into the bottom of bellhousing. (ask me how I know). I cursed herman the german engineer(affectionately). Why couldn't they place an inspection hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. The porsche mechanic gave me a great advice, the end of the clutch fork shaft has a threaded female end to screw in a m6 x 120 or 150 bolt (what ever length u need) to help hold the shaft as you slid it in place. Next is the one inch bolt that holds a small clip that holds in place a small plastic end cap that holds the clutch fork shaft in place. This was more of a ***** than Brunhilde in Nebelungin (excuse spelling). This alone was dropped 3 times as engineers made sure that there was a hole below it so that it could go all the way to the bottomof the bellhousing! My wife even ran from the garage when I had my lucky 3rd. I asked myself every time I crawled under the car that it would be less painful if I went to Alaska with meat tied to me and stood in front of grizzly bears. But, the job is done, I have no rattle in neutral only if I rev it up. Clutch pedal effort did not increase. Only where engagment point is and length of engage ment is a lot shorter now. If you are not paying attention at a stop light and it turn green you'll prob stall it. It's snowing and raining and freezing here in Germany so I can't even get to drive it too much. I called my car many names that would make brothel girls red, but all is forgotten cuz now she's (the car, not wife) is hot, smoking hot, she's got legs and now grip (like gov't with taxes). All is well in the universe again. I know there was a *** kissing blog for Markski!! I too want to thank him. He always help. He'll prob ask to get paid in the future!!

 

Thanks for the writeup. Please post pics if you have them. Kudos for you for tackling and finishing the task. I have heard from several people that the 996tt clutch is a completely unsatisfying job.

 

I have had very similar experiences with all the different clutch set-ups on my car.

Just so you know there is an upgraded clutch fork shaft kit that Porsche sells that does away with the needle or pin bearings, makes it easier...a bit late I know, just so you know for the future. It is a horrible job I agree, I have had my tranny out about 6 times...

 

I always just use tape to keep the fork in place, slide the transaxle on, and once it is close, pull the tape out, fork falls right into place in the transaxle. Not sure why you had so much problems with the needle bearings, those usually don't ever give problems.

To get the black plastic cap in place, tape it to a 12mm 1/4" drive socket and extension and put it in place. Do the same for the little 6mm bolt that holds the clip in place, tape it to a socket lightly. This will keep everything from falling down into the bellhousing as you put it back together.

 

Do you know the part number?

 

Thanx for the info on upgraded shaft, I will certainly used them next. I had the difficult time as my car is approx 20 inches from the ground, I don't have a lift , all done at home in the garage. And alone. It's a hassle fixing your own car here in germany, But I have soooo much less hassle as I am not a german citizen having to pass TUV inspection. Oh and also you don't need the flywheel seal installer tool ($200).If you are careful and use a small block and rubber mallet u can install it without the special tool. Compared to old 930's, I would rather change clutches on them anytime. But as of "learning" the 996, I can definitely do another one in 2/3 less time from what I learned.
Also for those who have done this, the clutch slave cylinder, when lining it up with the 2 holes on top of the trany mine was tough as it didn't want to go that last 1-2 mm. I even opened up the bleeder screw and drained fluid out. I used a pry bar to push that slave cylinder from the back to line up the holes. That was tough by yourself. Am I missing something on this job?

 

Getting the slave back in under pressure is really tough. You can try and get a screwdriver in the 1 of the 2 holes once you get it pushed in enough, but trying to do that while push the slave in, is always a good time

 

Can't remember the PN, it was a couple of years ago I did it. It comes as a kit, the dealer would know.

 

this will all be helpfull when i put my tranny back in tomorrow!

thx