anyone taken out their dvs? looks like u need small hands...any step by step info would be great thanks in advance steve p.o. any brand better than the rest ?

 

I just installed the EVOMS ones...the old ones where leaking ...and the car is running much stronger... Sure my 60-130 will go down.

Steve, you have to remove the Air box, loose the driver side IC hose just from the Y-pipe, then near to the Oil filter loose the +/- connections just over the first DV. Then loose the clam that connects the Air intake Pipe to the Y hose pipe that connects the base of the two DV, this is really important. Now, loose the clam of the F hose that connects the Y-Pipe and the first DV and then remove the first DV by just removing the clam in the base.

After that, you have more space to rotate opposite clock-wise the Y hose pipe that connects the base of the two DV, to locate in a more comfortable position to "un-clump" the second DV.

I hope its helps

 

http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/AWE_DV1_996TT.pdf

Its a ****ty job, next time I will rather pay my dealer to get it done!

 

get this hose clamp pliers first

 

here you go - http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...?cID=10&pID=68

 

thanks guys am really not to stoked about the lack of room on this job , but am going to get my hand cut up wed thanks again have a safe new years

 

I went with the kit from Vivid. Good quality and have functioned well for several months. Can't provide much step by step bc I did it when a good bit of the back end was apart already.

 

My local guys did it by dropping the engine just a little...made it trivial (I was told)....under an hour labor...not sure how hard, but fyi.

JB

 

It's not a hard job, it's just VERY tight in there. Take your time and you will do fine.

Here is a DIY done by Stephen Kaspar at IA: http://www.turbo911.com/showthread.php?t=287 It is very helpful!!

 

After reading one of the discussions and suggestions....I went out and bought those cable pliers and ended up using a pair of the bent needle nosed pliers....the cable pliers just wouldn't quite stay on the spring clamp nubs....$35 at Sears for something that didn't work and I'll never use again. I also didnt' replace those ford clamps with the stainless screw type and ended up with a leak at one of the diverter valves where it seats at the bottom...not in the F hose....so make sure those DV's are seated properly or you'll have boost problems. If you do notice boost issues....go right back and re examine the connections.

 

Dang, bummed to hear those cable pliers didn't work for you. I've got a new f-hose coming (small leak), and I was planning to purchase a pair hoping that they would make the job easier. I've changed dv's on a friend's car, and the above posters are correct...bloody hands for sure!

 

If you lived close to us, Turbo Mike would have done this job in less than an hour for you. He has huge hands but does amazing work, just like a surgeon. Hope you fix it soon.

 

Go down to Harbor Freight if you have one near you....or anywhere that sells the cheap chinese pliers....get a pair of the fairly good sized needle nosed pliers that have a bend in the jaws....that bend allows you to get behind the back side of the diverter valve and compress the nubs....then when you get done, you can go to the emergency room and get a pint of blood to replace all you've lost during the procedure.

 

thanks for the help gonna pressure test and be sure i have a failure before i replace them. then i'll give it a shot.. have lots of bandaids thanks again ain't this a great place

 

You will fix it, no worries bro. It is not as hard as they say. The damn small space is not fun to work in though.