996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

difficulty maintaining 996TT from noob

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  #31  
Old 01-02-2009, 09:51 PM
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I have driven my 01 996tt 40,000 trouble-free miles except for a clutch job which started with a groaning/creaking sound coming from the bell-housing when the pedal was pressed. I had a choice of either living with it or dropping the motor to investigate. This was at 30K miles (now have 45K) and once in there, I decided to fix a small cam housing to cover leak that caused the engine to become wet with oil on that side. Aside from the creaking/groaning noises and the wet engine underside, I could have driven the car since the clutch itself functioned perfectly and there was no measurable oil loss from the leak. Long story short, I had the engine dropped (22 hours book time) to discover a rusty clutch arm (and a clutch with only 50% wear), then decided to replace all bellhousing parts (since I wanted to drop the engine only once), then following the same logic, had the oil leak fixed which involved removing the cam housing (18 hours book time) - all told a 5000.00 bill, even with 20% off parts. Granted an indy repair shop could have saved me 1000-1500, but you get the idea, I just wanted to fix the car and move forward - the potential is there for major costs, even though the basic design is very trouble-free.
 

Last edited by bond; 01-02-2009 at 09:54 PM.
  #32  
Old 01-02-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bond
I have driven my 01 996tt 40,000 trouble-free miles except for a clutch job which started with a groaning/creaking sound coming from the bell-housing when the pedal was pressed. I had a choice of either living with it or dropping the motor to investigate. This was at 30K miles (now have 45K) and once in there, I decided to fix a small cam housing to cover leak that caused the engine to become wet with oil on that side. Aside from the creaking/groaning noises and the wet engine underside, I could have driven the car since the clutch itself functioned perfectly and there was no measurable oil loss from the leak. Long story short, I had the engine dropped (22 hours book time) to discover a rusty clutch arm (and a clutch with only 50% wear), then decided to replace all bellhousing parts (since I wanted to drop the engine only once), then following the same logic, had the oil leak fixed which involved removing the cam housing (18 hours book time) - all told a 5000.00 bill, even with 20% off parts. Granted an indy repair shop could have saved me 1000-1500, but you get the idea, I just wanted to fix the car and move forward - the potential is there for major costs, even though the basic design is very trouble-free.
I did my tranny ....1000 under warranty. I added the rest...

I wonder what these costs would be on a Ferrari, Lambo, Maser, even GTR....or AMG.

JB
 
  #33  
Old 01-02-2009, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Onetime
He still didn't answer which Japanese cars required him to pull the motor to perform basic "engine out" type of work.
replacement of the turbos on the 300zxTT required an entire engine pullout.

but im sure you are clever enough to ridicule my about this. too!
I apologize that all my mechanical experiences are mostly on japs but this is exactly why im here. go back to my thread and read exactly what i meant (not asking the reliability of thiscar but the ease/difficulty fixing components).
 
  #34  
Old 01-02-2009, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by orlando333
It just amazes me that he comes in here for help yet rips on everyone who tries to help

Dude, I have earned every buck that has gone into my pocket. Yes, you are right you are not part of my crowd. Your a pretentious, know it all, who when he gets advice criticizes it.

Suggest you do this: go to cars and coffee in Irvine tomorrow. I will be in the GT Silver Turbo S; or the GTR in Super Silver. I will give you all the answers you want to your questions -- and if I cannot answer them, there are a ton of P-Car gear heads who can.
not ripping everyone, just aholes like you. and if will be there at the cars and coffee, i will make sure to shove that starbucks coffee up you ****.
 
  #35  
Old 01-02-2009, 11:28 PM
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thanks to more helpful comments from bond and jcb-memphis. this forum isnt for me. moderators, you can ban me if you want.
 
  #36  
Old 01-03-2009, 03:14 AM
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[quote=lilx10;2198309]thanks to more helpful comments from bond and jcb-memphis. this forum isnt for me. moderators, you can ban me if you want.[/quotee]

Sorry to say that, but you obviously are an *******.
 
  #37  
Old 01-03-2009, 03:45 AM
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These cars are easy to work on. The bad part is if you start doing any engine work, or something that requires specialty tools and information. These cars are easier to work on once you get to know them. Mileage wise, a turbo is of less worry then lets say a standard 996 Carrera. Bottom line, if you don’t have a warranty, and can’t afford a reman, albeit a motor or trans and the labor don’t own the car! The good part about the jdm tuner cars is they are very rebuildable and easy to find parts for. Its funny to see the 996tts for sale with blown motors that go for the same as a new Honda. The literature required just for engine assembly is as thick as an encyclopedia and the tools required for installing liners, seals, and setting timing cost most then some cars. I know what it is like to have fun and pride with working on your own cars, but it is actually more economical to have the dealer do anything major. Other then brake jobs, and basic maintenance let the dealer handle it! If you have the ability, you can pull the parts, but to actually assemble a trans or engine requires a skilled trade mechanic with years of experience and once again a lot of specially tools. There are some great values out there with 996’s, but before you buy, take the time to look at how much parts alone cost. It is funny to add up how much the car would coast to build if you bought just the components vs, the whole car. A Cgt is another great example. This is the reason so many owners don’t drive their cars!
 
  #38  
Old 01-03-2009, 08:13 AM
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If you can pull the engine out of a 300z you have more than enough mechanical ability to do most of the work on a TT. The members have done their best to answer your questions. Maybe some of the answers were not exactly what you were looking for, but you have to allow for that in this type of medium. Relax, take a deep breath and reread some of the suggestions.

BTW, the comment you made to Orlando after he offered to personally answer all your questions was uncalled for.
 

Last edited by Onetime; 01-03-2009 at 08:16 AM.
  #39  
Old 01-03-2009, 09:29 AM
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It's not difficult at all.
Just keep all the fluids fresh at all times and you're set. With the occasional spark plug change. The only things I had to replace on my car was the clutch accumulator and pwr steering reservor.
I flush my tranny/front diff fluid annually. Doesn't cost much but to me it's worth it since I drive my cars hard. I also change the oil every 2000km on my 996TT and my MKIV.
The Supra is much more easier and cheaper to maintain of course.
 
  #40  
Old 01-03-2009, 11:09 AM
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Thanks for the great replies!
 
  #41  
Old 04-22-2009, 09:08 PM
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Stay with what YOU KNOW, Go buy a HONDA
 
  #42  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:36 PM
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Yeah um, nice pointless 4-month old bump.
 
  #43  
Old 04-23-2009, 11:56 AM
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the car is bullet proof, only if you are using blanks. please do not shoot your car with a fire-arm.
 
  #44  
Old 04-23-2009, 08:46 PM
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what are you reading it for dick
 
  #45  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:50 AM
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say what?
 


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