Ok guys, this pic is of a front MPS2 tire from my TT (the other front shows the same wear) w/ 10k miles on it. I had an alignment done at the dealer when they were new all around and have the camber setting on the receipt.

First is this kind of wear normal? And, second, does anyone want to guess at what camber setting this wear happened?

 

I would be more concerned at what toe setting that happened at...even with 2 deg of neg camber mine don't wear like that...incorrect toe will wear a tire much faster than camber...however, 10k miles is pretty good, especially if there were any track miles...I think it was either not aligned properly or the toe got out of spec...unless you had 2.5deg or more of neg camber and didn't drive it hard...

 

of course you should tell us the alignment specs for the front. Camber *and* toe.
I'll assume the worn area is on the inside. I'm suspecting too much toe-in or toe-out.
Otherwise *possibly too much negative camber*, but that's less likely because
you haven't changed suspension parts enough to get much range to mess it up,
so toe is my go-to bet in this case.
Joe

 

VSE Chuck, Is yours a TT or a non AWD model?

For the original poster, on the pic, is the wear outter or inner? Can't tell from the pic...

Couple things I noticed this past year, as I dealt with cording the outside edges of ALL FOUR CORNERS, was the camber... Camber will be kind to, or kill your tires... If you are running in the upper levels of your run group on maxed out stock camber settings, you will continue to kill outter edges...

Here's what worked for me last year:

2.9 negative front w/zero toe on the front.

2.5 negative rear w/about 5mm toe in.

You will need GT3 lower control arms in order to get this in the front and dog bones in the rear. You will also need thrust bushings to counter to much caster for the front caster increase on the control arms...

You also should have sway bars that are adjustable (with adjustable droplinks) and coil overs with pillowballs...

It's a rather large nut to choke down, but here's the "other" thing I noticed...

If you are going to set the car up to track it, and possibly use it for some street use, then you'll need to constantly get it aligned... The above settings will make the car very darty to drive on public roads, and won't be a fun street ride...You'll have to constantly get it aligned before and after events in order to do both, of course once you have the suspension setup properly and a cornerbalance done correctly, along with installation of all parts...

Mike

 

those are the inner edges...and I have to admit I'm a GT3 jockey and know little about AWD

 

That's right. The wear is on the inside.

How do I post a pdf that has all my alignment data?

 

when you have your post window open click on the paper clip and browse your drive for the pdf and upload it as an attachment

 

Camber is -1.0, Caster is 7.5 and toe is .06

What do you guys think?

 

Is that toe in or out? That kind of wear could come from toe out. Too much toe-in usually cups the outer edges. Also, did you keep tire pressures up to spec?

 

What he said...

Yuu need more Toe in... It's scrubbing hard...

I wouldn't even dream of tracking a TT without minimum of 1.5 negative front and 2.0 negative rear on stock settings. That's my street alignment, BTW, and it works well for "novice to intermediate" level of HPDE with OEM factory control arm settings...

Mike

 

Thats awful wear for 10K. Mine looks much better on the front than that. However, my backs might approach that level of wear after 10K. There is definitely something wrong with your setup.

 

It's toe in, but that's according to the numbers 10K miles ago. Pressures were kept up properly. Evidentally the alignment went to hell. I'll get new tires and allignment and report back tell what my current alignment numbers are.

 

Some of you guys might also be interested in knowing that street tires WILL pickup a LOT more pressure during a 30 minute run than your instructors might tell you at a DE. Last spring and summer I was picking up 12# pressure in my Michilin PS "RIBS" when on the track... I found that 36 rear and 32 front HOT was a good target for my street tires at a DE...I had to run 5-6 laps, come into the hot pits, check pressures and bleed down, and then go back out...Time consuming, but it got me into a decent target pressure range... I also would start out at 28 front and 32 rear to get to that range, so I was picking up that much pressure with the tires hot... to much tire pressure will kill the tread as well...

Mike

 

Chuck, The GT3 doesn't have the "understeer" issues that the TT has. We TT guys have to run our swaybars and shocks softer in the front to stave off the bad push in lower to moderate speed corners.

Mike

 

here are David's before and after specs...as you can see...front negative toe before and positive toe afterward...sell more tires that way