Trying to figure out what would be necessary to replace in order to do a GT28 or GT35 turbo upgrade. Had a few questions I tried searching but didnt find much.

Wondering how much HP are stock components good for and when its time to upgrade them.

* Fuel Pump max HP?
Whats the common fuel pump upgrade walbro with inline boosters or twin walbros?

* Fuel Injectors (How big are stock injectors CCs?)

* Fuel lines and fuel rail?

* Fuel Pressure Regulator

* Clutch limit?

* Can the stock exhaust manifold be modified in order to fit a GT28/30 turbos?

* What are stock internals good for (Pistons, Rod, Crank)

* Whats the max power guys are running with GT28/30 turbos on PUMP GAS?

* Piggy back friendly?/Good tuners that can flash the ECU for custom set up/ Stand alone (AEM, Tec3R...)

 

Those are very learned questions! I can't answer them all in detail since Iam at the shallow end of the mod pool..

Popular notions about strength of stock internals is 700-750 crank hp on pump. There are some who have gone well over this (mostly with race gas) though and lived to tell about it.
The GT28 vs GT35 choice is really not an either/or question in my mind. I dont think you could put GT35s on one of these cars without significant modification/fabrication and strengthening the bottom end of the engine. Hybrid GT28s however are bolt on and can be run maximally with a stock bottom end.
I would look at the EVOMS.com site to get an idea of what hp levels you need clutches, injectors, stronger rods ect...

 

Thank you ! Im just trying to get a rough idea from peoples past experiences.

 

Increasing HP is not what bends the rods, it is the torque (pressure applied). Stock bottom end 750 HP crank yes, 700max torque. Right now my torque is more than my HP which is what moves the car. You will need fuel lines, injectors, 5bar FPR, good ecu, for both turbos upgrades. GT28 much less work, GT35 much more work. Do your homework well to choose the right tuner. GL

 

Im more so interested in the GT2860R or possibly a GT3071R. And your saying the GT28 will be a direct replacement..?. plus oil feed..?

So stock fuel rail, lines are good for what 600-650hp?


Is there guys pushing 600-650whp with piggyback systems which piggy backs are they using?

 

Just sent you a PM

 

And as far as the "right tuner", what i've learned from my journeys is the best tuner for your car is the one who knows your ECU the best (piggy back or stand alone) Some one thats a Master AEM tuner will not necessarily be a good Electromotive Tec3R tuner.

 

PM me. I will take your car to a level that has never been before.

 

Neither the GT28 or the GT35R are true "direct bolt on's". The bolt on 28 is a hybrid, and the 35R is a custom deal. I am in the process of building a header that will support any midframe T3 turbo as a bolt on(700whp to 1400whp), although I am not sure what all these guys would do with that much hp I think Vivid may already have one.

Keep in mind that over here most of these guys quote approximate crank hp figures, not whp.

AS far as engine management goes, the guys here prefer a reflash and a small turbo upgrade. I have a "standalone" in my personal car and am in the process of doing R and D now. I have fully integrated it with the stock computer, and should be able to iron everything out in the next couple of weeks. Incidentally, I was able to make some major gains over the stock ecu without changing anything else. Currently I am running speed density, but for the sake of the T3 turbo system testing, I have left all of the intake piping(including MAF) in place.

Injectors are a must and since the MAF has a hard time handling huge injectors, they increase base FP with a 5 bar fpr. This was another reason I decided to develop a fully programmable non Maf engine management solution. I would say 650whp is max on stock lines/pump, although I don't know this to be gospel.

Jsutin

 

Justin,

I took the jump and just got a flash as I was talking to you about the "standalone" and you said you still needed more time. It sounds like it's coming quicker then you thought. I have a feeling the Porsche world will transform into something similar to the Supra world with owners eventually tuning there own cars and progressing the car quickly. Who knows we might be talking about ignition advances, rev limiters, setting for 2 steps, etc...very exciting because this means the average Joe will be more likely to modify the car harder.

 

Excidium.... hah! Nice set of questions... who are you researching for???????

 

My GT28's are direct bolt ons and it is not a hybrid. Where are you getting your recources from?

 

My suggestion is for you to personally contact some of the well known tuners to get their opinions/suggestions. Contact Todd @ Protomotive, Kevin @ UMW, Tony @ EPL, Todd @ EVOMS...et.al.

 

A true GT28 is based on a T25 flange. 4 bolt... This was later adapted to use a T3 hotside.

My resources come directly from the turbo manufacturers.

By hybrid, I mean that someone has adapted it to fit on the factory type header either by machining a hotside, or putting a "GT28" cartridge in the K24 hotside. A bolt on would be anything based on a K series hotside or flange. If you have T25 or T3 headers, it's a moot point though...

Incidentally, as I mentioned in another post somewhere. The standalone option is not for everyone, and 99% of people will do great with a flash, or a custom tune for their particular setup using the MAF. I do standalone's(and tuning) on a day to day basis, and when someone said it couldn't be done(especially integrating the stock ecu into the equation), I did it I have ready status on all of the stock sensors, and no CEL.

as Wross mentioned.... Talk to some of the well-known Porsche tuners out there to get an idea of what is needed for the horsepower goal you are looking for.

Justin

 

Here is what it takes to o run a T3 hot side... its a major job and by far not for the common weekend warrior...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]