contact switzer performance let Tym build you some turbos and let him work his magic...

 

I plan to do this all on a budget and not have anyone put together a 'kit' for me - cause that always tacks on another $500+ just for them doing it for you. If they did it exactly at the same price you could do it for, they'd be out of business

Anyways,
I plan to pick up a set of K24s, send them to Blouch = ~$1500-2000 + $1000 for uprade

5 Bar FPR = $150 OR 60lb injectors = $550? Which do I do?

Fuel pump = ~$175 - necessary? I assume yes?

FVD tuning = Free, granted they have a K24/18G file + race gas file

Clutch = $1000-1500

So I think in parts that comes to about - $4250-4750 depending on if I do FPR or Injectors and which clutch setup I go with.

All would be done at a labor cost of a maximum $66/hr - possibly less.

Do those numbers sound about right?

What's the aprox. cost of their 18G upgrade you think?

 

[quote=Renegades;2248359]I plan to do this all on a budget and not have anyone put together a 'kit' for me - cause that always tacks on another $500+ just for them doing it for you. If they did it exactly at the same price you could do it for, they'd be out of business

Anyways,
I plan to pick up a set of K24s, send them to Blouch = ~$1500-2000 + $1000 for uprade Turbo price is about right, if you look around, clutch is more like $1200-$1500 including wastegates?

5 Bar FPR = $150 OR 60lb injectors = $550? Which do I do?
If engine is out for clutch, do injectors, if not, 5bar is fine. More potential with injectors.

Fuel pump = ~$175 - necessary? I assume yes?
Not necessary, unless you want to take it to another level. By that I mean extra pump, injectors AND 5bar gets you close to, if not, 600+awhp.

FVD tuning = Free, granted they have a K24/18G file + race gas file
Not sure about this

Clutch = $1000-1500
Sounds like an inexpensive clutch kit, My guess is closer to $1500, maybe a smidge more with the upgraded pressure Plate

So I think in parts that comes to about - $4250-4750 depending on if I do FPR or Injectors and which clutch setup I go with.
Have a couple extra dollars, because stuff happens once you get going!!!

All would be done at a labor cost of a maximum $66/hr - possibly less.
Unbelievable shop rate!!! Shops here are $120/hr.




This is my experience...others I'm sure will chime in...

 

Thanks for the tips TT

The clutch kits i'm referring to are the stage 3, 3+, 4 kits listed on HorsepowerFreaks' website. Would one of those work fine? Cause those are $900-1500 pretty much.

The shop rate for my Porsche dealership is $110/hr but i'm an Employee, so I get it at $66/hr

Also,
How much whp would I be missing out on if I just went with a 5 bar FPR instead of doing Injectors + Fuel pump?

Lastly,
Is 550awhp on pump gas at like 1.2-1.3 doable with this setup? I'd like to be close to 600awhp on 100+ octane race gas. Possible?

Thanks!

 

[quote=Renegades;2248447]Also, How much whp would I be missing out on if I just went with a 5 bar FPR instead of doing Injectors + Fuel pump?
You need to find a tuner. Your tuner can tell you what you can expect based on HIS flash and whatever dyno you may or may not use. You're not giving up much power at the BASIC 18G level. Just the 5bar should get you between 500-550whp, again depending on flash and dyno, if you dynotune it.


Lastly,
Is 550awhp on pump gas at like 1.2-1.3 doable with this setup? Likely, yes. talk to a tuner.

I'd like to be close to 600awhp on 100+ octane race gas. Possible?
This is the level you will likely need the extra fuel pump, injectors and 5bar.


Everyone here can make a tuner suggestion. At all of these different levels, you need to retune. My advice is call and talk to ALL of them and make your decision. I was VERY happy with mine.
Good Luck.

 

On pump gas the stock fuel injectors with a 5 bar are at around 97% duty cycle at 500 awhp (on a mustang dyno).

 

Be careful - this is the reason I haven't really done many mods yet. $3k becomes $7k in the blink of an eye..

How so? I'm assuming they do, but wouldn't they or any other vendor charge extra to upgrade from the current K16 file you have?

Great rate By the book, I think the clutch is listed by 20 or 22 because it says you need to pull the engine. Talk to one of the techs - better ones can do it by only dropping the tranny. Try negotiating down to about 9-10 hrs of labor..

 

If you install the dual fuel pumps and injectors, you retain the OEM 3.8 bar fuel pressure regulator, so there is some savings there. The 5 bar FPR is too much with the 60 Lb. injectors and is typically not used at this level.

My car made 550 AWHP at 1.27 bar with 104 unleaded race fuel (Mustang dyno). This is with dual fuel pumps, injectors, IC's, 75mm TB, fully enlarged 2 1/2" intake tract to TB. Power was still increasing at 6,800 RPM's, so we would have seen a higher number at say 7,100 RPM's. We were seeing roughly 25-30HP per .1 bar increase. At the rate we were going, 1.4 bar would have dynoed about 575-580AWHP and 1.5 bar would be 600 AWHP or more. Not sure 1.5 bar is safe, though...even with race fuel, but some are doing it.

Back to your original question...if you think you may outgrow the 16G's you probably will. I had the low clearance 16/24's, which are similar to the 16G's and I outgrew them in one season. I love the 18G's and would even like more power, but the 18G's are satisfying enough that I am not overly driven to upgrade. They have a way of satisfying that yearn for high power, especially with race gas and slightly higher boost. I could live with the 18G's forever and be happy and that's the feeling you want to have after a few months of driving. I've now had them for 2 years and still feel that way (not to say I don't have plans to tweak them a bit, though :-)).

 

That's awesome man,
Those numbers are very impressive for a mustang dyno - those usually ready pretty low down they?

I may do the injectors + fuel pump then. Sounds like that's the best bet heh.

So on a good race gas file it would be ok (depending on the tuner) to push 1.4-1.45 bar? I'd love to be able to make close to 600awhp on 104+ fuel. That's plenty for me, and plenty for any of the cars around here.

Also,
What do you guys think of the stage 3, 3+, 4, etc clutch kits that HorsepowerFreaks sell for the 996 Turbo? They're well priced at $900-1500, if I could do that then it'd be great!

Thanks

 

My 2 cents. I have the 16G turbos and tuning from EPL. The car is stupid fast. Way more than the average fool (me) needs. I cruise on the freeway and when I decide to change lanes to pass someone or get to an off ramp I'm there. Now. The only time I want more power is when I get on this site and see guys buying the 24/18 setup. Otherwise, when I'm not on this site and don't think about it, the car is damn stupid fast and I totally enjoy it.

I chose the 16G kit because I didn't want to spend a lot of money and I don't plan to upgrade. I know there are faster cars out there, but there will always be faster cars. I'm good where I am. I'm into other a bunch of other things so having the ultimate fast car is not the highest thing on my list. If you are completely into high HP then go with the 24/18s. You have to figure out what you want.

 

Be careful with those. They are made for straight line and majority have internal builds (cams, piston, rods, etc) Some run methanol injection and up to 16 pound pulleys @16psi, you will not beat them by even K24/18G. Don't forget Superchargers punch and have power off the bat. Watch this, hard to tell I beat him, but by 4th gear I was walking him @1.2bar with a passanger until I saw the CHP. This car had to have 650-700HP.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqucn...eature=related

 

You will require the fuel pumps and injectors to have a chance at achieving those numbers. We were beyond what my tuner would like to see for injector duty head room, even at the 550AWHP, but there was plenty of fuel - just not the amount of head room he would ideally like to see. Yes, the Mustang dynos read low and like I mentioned, the power was still increasing when the dyno stopped recording. I run to 7,150 RPM's on the street and I think we would have peaked at more like 560 AWHP @ 7,150 RPM's. I'll post the dyno below and you can see how the power was still climbing at 6,800 RPM's. There are a lot of people running 1.4 with these turbos, but I have not and do not have the expertise to make recommendations on that front.

Personally, I don't know anything about Horsepower Freaks clutches. I would go with the proven Sachs Race stuff. I've heard a lot of stories of alternate brand clutches not working out the best and it's a big job to re-do.

This dyno is 93 octane at 1.18 bar vs. 104 octane at 1.25 and 1.27 bar -

 

I understand they can be pretty crazy, but the kid is running his mouth and has a mild cam, stock heads, full exhaust, a tune, and is adding nitrous in the next month (150 shot I believe). He dyno'd 440whp/460wtq or something like that.

Beyond that, it's all he has, it isn't blown, he's not getting a supercharger for it anytime soon. So i think a strong k24/18G setup would do fine against him with his setup, even on spray. He does 25mph rolls; i'll even run him from a dig to really upset him.

If he starts making close to 600whp he's going to have traction issues up to about 60mph or maybe more...

He lost to a 500awhp EVO by about 8-10 car lengths from a 25 roll to 120.

 

I would check under the hood, you never know. If no supercharger, then you got him for sure. Don't forget 150shot=440+150, just in case.

 

Definite for sure, he just spent $2500 on his nitrous setup, and a supercharger noise would be very evident. I've seen his car run before, it's not crazy fast, with the nitrous on it it'll be quick, but with the 18Gs I just don't think he'll have enough to fair well haha. He made a statement to me that the Porsche is a waste of gas for him, and he would run me backwards with the ebrake up.