996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Big wing conversion question (GT2 decklid upgraders, this is for you guys!)

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  #46  
Old 02-10-2009, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Iceyankee-Tsi
Hi Jon:

In fact, with just e-taping both switches assuring they are not pressed(both need to be released just like when you take them out of there spoiler ram holding bracket) it will be fine. The best thing about this is you are able to test it without cutting nothing. I didn't do this way because my spoiler's rams were leaking and I don't have plans of using the stock spoiler/assembly again. Very important to remember to unplug the spoiler switch in the dash area because if for some reason you press the lowering spoiler feature, it will give you the warning light since after a few seconds of not receiving the spoiler's micro-switches feedback it will interpret a spoiler system failure. Anyways, you know this will clear up once you restart the car.
Regards, Andres
oh...my bad. I think I misunderstood your initial test results then. Both switches in released states will make the computer see a raised wing state? I thought I tried this when I was removing my rams (both switches in released states) and it threw a code still. Maybe It's worth me trying again...

It sounds like the solution is even easier than I thought then; remove both switches from their passenger side ram mount and call it a day!

Is this consistent with your findings?
 
  #47  
Old 02-10-2009, 04:52 PM
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Affirmative Jon:

Now you got it right!!! The only thing here is that you need to be absolutely sure that the micro-switches terminals do not make any kind of contact that may provide the same feedback to the ecu as a pressed-switch state . However, just do some testing by leaving the switches hanging in a secure place and checking what happens(which should be nothing). Test it at 70 MPH plus to be sure no warnings appear. Since I immediately proceeded to cut the switches and solder together the gray and black cables plus isolated the blue and the other black cable, Im 100% sure that this way it does works.

If leaving the switches alone doesn't work, try it the way I did it. Remember that you can always solder the cables back to original state and cover the union with shrink tubing to have the harness back into stock conditions.

Regards, Andres
 
  #48  
Old 02-10-2009, 06:52 PM
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Yup. Exactly. Thanks for taking the time to rip your switch assembly apart and test this. Sure beats paying $250 for a porsche harness.
 
  #49  
Old 02-10-2009, 08:57 PM
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Thanks, Andres. I am going to try with the switches in tact, first. If it does not work, I will try the splice method. Just leave all 4 switches (both sides) taped and in the released position, correct?
 
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  #50  
Old 02-10-2009, 10:12 PM
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Ok guys, fresh question:

Decklid dealer paint quote (just the decklid) is $600-700 dollars.


Has anyone tried to paint their own decklid/other part and been happy. I found a very nice website for this stuff....and it is tempting. About 100$ total... paintscratch.com.

TIA

Jeff
 
  #51  
Old 02-10-2009, 10:22 PM
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Jeff,

Take it to a good body shop. I should be under $200.00, if it does not require prep work (by that I mean already been painted). IMO and from my experience with painted body pieces (lip, rockers, etc) your quote is too high. I had the front lip and rockers done (with a prep/fresh primer) for $160.00 - That price includes clear coat and buffing out to a factory shine.
 
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  #52  
Old 02-10-2009, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
Thanks, Andres. I am going to try with the switches in tact, first. If it does not work, I will try the splice method. Just leave all 4 switches (both sides) taped and in the released position, correct?
2 switches John. There are only 2 switches; both on the passenger side hydraulic ram.
 
  #53  
Old 02-10-2009, 10:31 PM
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Oh, good. I thought I burried two more switches under the liner when I did the swap...
 
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  #54  
Old 02-11-2009, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
Jeff,

Take it to a good body shop. I should be under $200.00, if it does not require prep work (by that I mean already been painted). IMO and from my experience with painted body pieces (lip, rockers, etc) your quote is too high. I had the front lip and rockers done (with a prep/fresh primer) for $160.00 - That price includes clear coat and buffing out to a factory shine.
Thanks!

Jeff
 
  #55  
Old 02-11-2009, 04:24 PM
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Yea, what John said. I have FOUR panels damaged on my wife's bimmer from striking a deer a few weeks ago and the best shop in town quoted me $1189 to fix it... I'll be taking my new front bumper cover to them to shoot, along with the hood, and mayde the whole car... but the bumper cover quote was only $300.

Mike
 
  #56  
Old 02-11-2009, 05:26 PM
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I recently had a fiberglass spoiler with winglets and FG deck lid prepped and painted for 300 locally. Turned out just fine.
 
  #57  
Old 02-11-2009, 05:42 PM
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Jeff will you be at VIR??
 
  #58  
Old 02-11-2009, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by iLLM3
Jeff will you be at VIR??
PM sent.

Jeff
 
  #59  
Old 02-21-2009, 10:39 PM
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Just did the wing. All in midnight blue. Wow. Wow. You can really feel it too.

JB
 
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  #60  
Old 02-21-2009, 11:01 PM
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Hey Jeff,

Looks awesome. Nice to see that it worked out but really glad for you that you are enjoying it and can feel the effect. It's like liquid-courage but I call it aero-courage.

Be safe.

Hey John did you call Dave?

See ya guys.
 


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