must admit that sounds like a good idea and in retrospect I guess I should have. but I drove over 400 miles with .6-.8 bar only and car ran well. at the time I just thought the Greddy was acting up and was turning good lap times so.....

had I have known I would not have run.....

 

if all the wrong mixtures why no codes and AFR's perfect???
SMR I need help to make sure this doesnt happen again to me and obviously others, do you have any suggestions? thanks
tom

 

no it takes very little to do , any compitant shop can make you something to have the holes shut where the old wastegates use to be , or if you never intend to sell the turbos you could also weld them shut its up to you. protosport made little plates which keeps them shut.

you will need headers , any header i had my evo headers modified with an external wastegate flange welded facing the front of the car for more clearance , and thats it run the lines . adjust your greddy and your good to go.

if you allready have headers , then its just a matter fo getting 44 mm tials.

 

thanks!! I will show this to my shop!!

 

tom
i think evo released an updated wastegate .. .

ive had mine break within 2 months of ownership.. replaced it ... and 9 months later w/ constant boost, no issue

good luck .

p.s. your wing looks SO awesome man im jealous

 

Are the rods threaded at the bends? If they are, not good.

 

If I have learned correctly the turbo with the broken actuator rod will not overboost by spinning the impeller out of control. I ran many times with a broken rod and all it did was cut back the amount of boost. The time Randy Pobst drove my car I had a broken rod but he sure made it go really quick anyway. There will be no AFR problems because the ECU is dealing with the pressure it reads at the pressure/temperature sensor (among other parameters) at the y-pipe convergence just before the throttle body. It doesn't really care how much boost or where it came from. It just compensates for what is presenting.

If you already have some brand of SS headers, it's a simple task to plumb the externals in. Just be sure whoever does it welds in a good transition piece with a nice radius heading in the right direction. It needs to be welded into the very short collector area of the headers (where all 3 pulses are registered) and there is very little space in which to do it. It's difficult to get much less than a 90 degree exit path but every little bit helps. An improper radius (transition piece) can restrict flow and an improper angle can cause unnecessary back pressure with gases trying to flow against the discharge from the turbine. I may have some pictures of mine which were originally plumbed back into the ehxaust pipes ahead of my mufflers but now that I'm running staight pipes that's no longer relative. If I find anything of value, I will -mail it to you. I don't know how to post pics on the threads.

You can design a rod to go between the waste gate coupling hole and another stationary place nearby. I forget where they put mine but there is more than one option. I don't think the gates should be welded shut because of the problems cutting them free , and attendant ugly weld material on the housing and flapper, if you ever decide to sell the turbos, or whatever.

 

Tom here you go.

 

That's a much better header design to work with than mine. I have Fabspeed with stock-sized flanges and there's nowhere near that amount of collector.

 

just get a good fabricator he will be able to work with it .

 

well just broke my fourth rod, the new improved one from Todd

I wont do any more so I will take you guys advise and convert to external waste gates

thanks

 

If you cut open your actuator cans...you have to make sure that the beading around the rim of diaphram is seated properly when you put the two halves back together. When I did mine, I found one of the diaphrams had been installed so that a portion of the beading was barely holding ....this had to be a factory issue because the car was totally stock and the wastegate actuator cans are sealed by fold over crimps.....when you take them apart to install the new springs...you might possibly have a diaphram that's not completely seated. The stock wastegates (K24's) dont seem to have the problem with actuator rods breaking like the EVOM ones do...so it might be that diaphram.

 

Just reading this and not looking to start a pressure/volume war. but if one turbo is still spinning making, say 1bar, and the other turbo is only making .6bar, won't you see 1 bar on the gauge, but have lower performance as you have less volume of air and the appropriate fuel to go with it? Engine would never know the difference, so no light?

 

Engine does not know(and does not care) if there are one,two or three turbos...the only that matters is the volume of air entering combustion chamber...So if only one turbo is spinning,volume of air is alomst half of that needed to reach desired boost level...

 

With just one turbo, if it's robust enough, you should still see normal boost levels. However it will be slow as heck to get there and you'll be overspeeding the heck out of the working turbo. Chances are a single turbo will be down on boost out fo a pair and spinning for all it's worth. All the turbo knows is that the boost ain't right so it will keep trying to get it there....