BlackHorseTurbo's Softronic 996 TIPTRONIC goes 6.89
#61
My advice is to not sustain 1.45 bars unless you are running C 16, which of course you can't.
Be happy w/ what you have. If you are going to go for more power, I would do a secondary pump and IC's. Delete your cats and have your car tuned for C 16. You also need a beefier torque converter.
In cold weather 1.45 on 104 might have a bad consequence.
Be happy w/ what you have. If you are going to go for more power, I would do a secondary pump and IC's. Delete your cats and have your car tuned for C 16. You also need a beefier torque converter.
In cold weather 1.45 on 104 might have a bad consequence.
#62
that is sweet. congrats.
Anthony in Houston, has a Protomotive 650 tip and if I recall he ran like a 6.5 60-130 at LSR. This proves that these are remarkably quick and fast cars that can run with the big boys.
Makes me want one....but wife wont let me....yet.
Anthony in Houston, has a Protomotive 650 tip and if I recall he ran like a 6.5 60-130 at LSR. This proves that these are remarkably quick and fast cars that can run with the big boys.
Makes me want one....but wife wont let me....yet.
#63
Thanks Andy, Anthony sold his P car last year. He never had a time officially recorded. But we believe he ran a 6.8X.
#66
Sean just an FYI I have ran 1.6bar (24+psi) on MS109, and keep in mind at only 22psi I made only less than 10rwhp than you with 3071's, stock intake piping, stock intercoolers, single fuel pump, and 60lb injectors.. This is on the same dyno (which is VERY stingy) that Tommy uses to dyno all his high HP Supras, including Big Red, Vralexanders, etc. I bring my numbers up to show you that at 24psi I am making a lot more than what I do on 22psi. Also Justin N. said it was perfectly fine to run that kind of power on MS109. C16 is not needed on a 660rwhp car. The only reason why I ran C16 for a little while is because I had straight pipes and they were sold out of MS109 everywhere. People like Scott, Mark, etc. make over 850-900rwhp where you want to run C16 just because of safety at their boost levels.
Todd K. uses C16 for complete safety just in case someone is dumb and doesn't know how to use their boost controller and spikes the boost really high and in theory it can possibly stop detonation. Just like any tuner (no matter what kind of car, Vette, F-body, Porsche, Mustang, etc...) he has to deal with, if a person is dumb and pops their motor due to too much boost they will blame the tuner (and not their own stupidity). And I know Todd is a bad *** tuner, but even a few negative people that don't know what they are doing can make one look bad. This has happened with other tuners in the past, that did nothing wrong, remember DMK or whatever his names car. The only time a higher octane gas (and even MS109 could have done it also) could be your savior (like it was for you) is when you do something, and please don't take this the wrong way, kinda dumb like running what you THINK is 1.5bar on a high 30-mid 40* day (which realistically 1.6-1.7bar) and stay into the car even though its detonating really bad. Todd K. I don't think would recommend you run that kind of boost, and even when I ran 24psi it was in warmer weather because even I would turn the boost down in that kind of weather because it would be making a LOT of hp (way to much for a stock motor in theory). I don't try to talk down to you like you know nothing, but keep in mind I have a lot more experience with high hp motors (considering my last car made 1000+fwhp and ran 8.9s @ 151 and probably 60-130'ed in the 3.5sec area (keep in mind that my car was faster than Bob Helm's Supra), and I know what can happen if something isn't right. Hell I blew a headgasket so bad that even my engine builder was like damn I don't know how the hell you did that. That is why we are very precatious with Matt's Vette which runs MS109 in the primary fuel tank and C16 in the nitrous cell. Nitrous is a lot more violent on the motor than a turbo. Plus it makes 839rwhp which is about the area when you want to stay safe as you can be due to high cyl pressure.
Todd (Blackhorseturbo) it is at your discretion to run 1.45 bar, but I would recommend getting an aftermarket Air/Fuel gauge installed so that you can monitor your a/f's during the run when testing a new amount of boost. Though I would recommend something better than 104, I would also use only MS109 due to the fact it is more octane which we all know is safer. And I would also recommend upgrading your fuel pump and intercoolers regardless because it is just going to be safer regardless, but MS109 should and will be fine with your car. The only other thing I would recommend is talking to Scott to make sure he has the timing set where it will be safer at that amount of boost. I can almost guarntee he does, but just for peace of mind I would ask. I told him from the get go that I planned on making 1.5+ bar so that is what my tune is written for.
Todd K. uses C16 for complete safety just in case someone is dumb and doesn't know how to use their boost controller and spikes the boost really high and in theory it can possibly stop detonation. Just like any tuner (no matter what kind of car, Vette, F-body, Porsche, Mustang, etc...) he has to deal with, if a person is dumb and pops their motor due to too much boost they will blame the tuner (and not their own stupidity). And I know Todd is a bad *** tuner, but even a few negative people that don't know what they are doing can make one look bad. This has happened with other tuners in the past, that did nothing wrong, remember DMK or whatever his names car. The only time a higher octane gas (and even MS109 could have done it also) could be your savior (like it was for you) is when you do something, and please don't take this the wrong way, kinda dumb like running what you THINK is 1.5bar on a high 30-mid 40* day (which realistically 1.6-1.7bar) and stay into the car even though its detonating really bad. Todd K. I don't think would recommend you run that kind of boost, and even when I ran 24psi it was in warmer weather because even I would turn the boost down in that kind of weather because it would be making a LOT of hp (way to much for a stock motor in theory). I don't try to talk down to you like you know nothing, but keep in mind I have a lot more experience with high hp motors (considering my last car made 1000+fwhp and ran 8.9s @ 151 and probably 60-130'ed in the 3.5sec area (keep in mind that my car was faster than Bob Helm's Supra), and I know what can happen if something isn't right. Hell I blew a headgasket so bad that even my engine builder was like damn I don't know how the hell you did that. That is why we are very precatious with Matt's Vette which runs MS109 in the primary fuel tank and C16 in the nitrous cell. Nitrous is a lot more violent on the motor than a turbo. Plus it makes 839rwhp which is about the area when you want to stay safe as you can be due to high cyl pressure.
Todd (Blackhorseturbo) it is at your discretion to run 1.45 bar, but I would recommend getting an aftermarket Air/Fuel gauge installed so that you can monitor your a/f's during the run when testing a new amount of boost. Though I would recommend something better than 104, I would also use only MS109 due to the fact it is more octane which we all know is safer. And I would also recommend upgrading your fuel pump and intercoolers regardless because it is just going to be safer regardless, but MS109 should and will be fine with your car. The only other thing I would recommend is talking to Scott to make sure he has the timing set where it will be safer at that amount of boost. I can almost guarntee he does, but just for peace of mind I would ask. I told him from the get go that I planned on making 1.5+ bar so that is what my tune is written for.
Last edited by Powell; 03-05-2009 at 01:41 PM.
#68
Thanks Anthony. NOw go back to sleep. Or, are you monitoring the 6 because you are going to buy another P Car?
#69
Thanks guys.
#70
I share the same concern on the air fuel ratio...mid 12's at peak tq is a bit scary. We always tuned our Supra's to 11.5:1 on unleaded. Of course since I now run Q16 which is oxygenated and leaded I run a slightly more aggresive 11.9-12.0:1
Be careful Todd, the LAST thing you want is to see her go...make sure you run race gas and turn the boost DOWN at MSR at TX2K9.
Peter
Be careful Todd, the LAST thing you want is to see her go...make sure you run race gas and turn the boost DOWN at MSR at TX2K9.
Peter
#71
As for Anthony's time....this was posted by me on 10/28 in reference to our 10/27/07 event...he did in fact run a 6.8 that day although it was NOT verified b/c I lost the file...
Anthony Waller - 2001 996 TT (670 HP) - automatic - 6.8 - again, the darn VBOX messed up during the transfer from the unit to the computer and therefore I was not able to capture all the detail of the run, I did however see his time displayed and it was in fact a 6.8
Anthony Waller - 2001 996 TT (670 HP) - automatic - 6.8 - again, the darn VBOX messed up during the transfer from the unit to the computer and therefore I was not able to capture all the detail of the run, I did however see his time displayed and it was in fact a 6.8
#72
....I am sure there will be something coming in the not too distant future.....
#75
The more I look at it the difference in specific gravity (or Density as VP rates their fuels at) is .03 difference between the two and there isn't really a major difference other than 2 oct difference on the Motor Octane. Which makes me questions MS109 and if it's really worth the extra money.
This forum is about learning and it is starting to come around that many myths about these cars are just myths and nothing more than that. About a year ago I asked a question about the fuel system for these cars and how much stock lines support. The only answers I got is "it's a secret" or "EVOMS uses a fuel system, including lines, etc". I disproved that theory by running 652rwhp on a single fuel pump with 60lb injectors. When I added the 2nd fuel pump and ran 22psi I went 135.7 @ 3650+lbs car which takes over 700rwhp. I've been told by certain people my car is a frankenstien and that even some of the tuners just call it that. Well I think I'm obviously doing something right here, because I'm making the power cars with a true GT3076 w/ a .63 A/R are making with my "smaller" exhaust side hybrid turbo. I'm doing it without the fuel system they have, a tune that's never been updated (my fault for this one), and on MS109 compared to C16. I use Sean's car as my example because I cannot compare my car to Scott's car when he had GT3076 w/ .83 A/R due to the fact that he has heads, cam, bottom end (possibly even more compression), and the fact that his exhaust A/R is a lot bigger than mine allowing for my air flow as well as more HP. The same goes with Jamie's (OhioGT2) car because he utilizes a GT3076 with a .83 A/R and that's going to allow him to make more power than me regardless. Sean used the smaller a/r turbo so it's the only one close to my turbos exhaust side a/r. To end my example with real world "data" ... Sean's car is indeed faster than mine because he has a 200-300lb weight advantage over my car which as anyone with any drag racing experience knows is a HUGE advantage. So no matter what Sean you will beat me, and I have come to terms with it. I do not want to push my bottom end much harder because I do not have the budget that people do to build a motor at this point in my life. So I will have to go by my life being the 3rd fastest 996TT in Houston LOL!
Maybe I'm just young and naive, but I think my brother, Zac, and I; along with others on this forum are stumbling onto things that have been regarding as a mystery for a long time with these cars that only certain tuners/builders only know the answeres to. Regardless I am here to learn, not just from others mistakes, but from the people that are willing to share information. I have had builders tell me a lot about these cars and I appreciate it more than anything and it continues to feed my ever growing knowledge of the 996TT.